Turn on wire/ Fuse holder

I'm installing a second amplifier today.  Should I run the 2nd turn on wire from the same place I ran the first one (the aftermarket cd player's amp turn on wire) or should I run the new one from a different source (i.e. the unused power antenna lead)

Also, I need to instal a much larger ANL inline fuse holder from the battery.  I heard the magic distance from the battery should be no more than a foot or so.  The closest I could bolt the holder down due to its sheer size is about 3 feet away.  Is there any danger in doing so, or does it not matter?   At what distance can I safely mount the holder? 1 foot, 2 feet, 3 feet.....5 feet, etc etc? 

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~WAYLAND

You can power the second amp from the first amps remote turn on lead, jumper it across. For the anl fuse, can you manufactur and abs or aluminum mount for the fuse holder any close at all by chance?, if not, mount it where you have the room. The fuse is designed to protect the vehicle, not the stereo in the event of an accident or short circuit, thus should be as close to the battery as possible.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

There isn't a way to mount it in the area, due to hood clearance, and the amout of factory accessories mounted on the battery side of the car.  I may just temporarily use zip ties to hold it down on the battery itself........   I'll figure out a permanate house later, when it gets a lttile warmer outside.......but reccomnedations are still welcome.

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~WAYLAND

I agree with forbidden, most aftermarket headunits can power 2 or 3 amplifiers from their remote turn on lead.

As for the fuse, try looking under your battery for a mounting location. There may be some room there.

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

Ugh.......now i have to start doing work........under the battery........   I'll see what fits though.....  If not,   I'll have to go the circuit breaker route.....smaller,  but a little pricier......thanks

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~WAYLAND

Circuit breakers are nice if you don't plan on upgrading your system any time soon. If you do then you're out another $60 or so if you need a larger breaker. I've read a lot of posts about breakers and it seems they are usually recommended if you tend to blow a lot of fuses.

How large is your ANL holder? Most of the ones I've seen are cylinderical, about an 1 1/2 inch diameter and 6 to 8 inches long. What type of vehicle are you installing the system in?

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

It's a 1994 Ford Explorer.  The fuse holder is about 1-1/2 inches and diameter, and, with the mounting plate molded in, rises about 2 inches tall.  It is 6 inches long, the fuse holder that is (haha).  But when you take into account the limited flexablitiy of the 1/0 gauge wire, you're looking at a space that needs to be around 10 inches long. 

I don't think that I'm going to upgrade anytime soon.  In fact, I'm going to need to upgrade my powersystem to handle what I'm running right now.  So more components isn't even a blip on my radar. 

Plus, E-bay offers a lot of cheaper, no-name circuit breakers that cost no more than my fuse-holder / fuse combination.  (Oh, by the way, I'm running about 200 amps)

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~WAYLAND

You don't know how lucky you are! I have a '97 Explorer Sport and am in the process of installing my ANL as well! Give me a few minutes to take a look, and I'll let you know a good spot.

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

Great, thanks....

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~WAYLAND

Ok Wayland1985, here's the deal...
If your engine compartment is the same as mine you have a couple of choices (and yes, the space is extremely limited!)

1) I have a power distribution block (factory) between the battery and the firewall. I used 2 velcro straps to secure my AGU holder to the side of that, and was considering that as an option for my ANL as well. It's easily accessible, secure, and you can still access the factory block by simply removing the velcro straps if needed. If you're concerned about astehtics, then you can file off the molded in mounting plate.

2) There is a sheet metal lip running along the top of the quarter panel (where the hood closes on top of). Drill at least 2 holes and use nuts & bolts to mount the ANL holder under that lip. There's enough room to at least get 2 bolts into the holder, which should be enough to secure it.

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

Sounds good, but I'll see what i can do.   I've been running my wire through a blank clutch plate on the driver's side firewall, only becasue its the easiest, adn most open space to drill.  So running my wires over the radiator has worked for me.   But, maybe I can somehow mount them your way, and route the cable alongside teh hoses mounted on the firewall, up and over the engine.....The hood hinges take up a lot of space..... But, I'll check out clearance in the morning.   Thanks for the advice.   It may be my only solution.

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~WAYLAND

You didn't need to drill. You could have gone through the rubber gas cable boot. I'm still using 4awg, but I know 1/0 will fit through there as well.

You've got me a little confused, running the wires over the radiator from the driver's side? You should be already running along that quarter panel to even get to the radiator, which would take you right past the battery (at least on my model). Is your battery on the Driver's side, or Passenger's side of the engine compartment?

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

My battery is on the passenger side, right in the corner behind the headlight.  I am going to run the cable from the battery, up, over the radiator, along the driver's side quater panel, and down into the clutch plate i drilled through....

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~WAYLAND

Check out this link (the 3rd item down). It's another ANL holder, new from JL Audio. But it's smaller than the traditional tube style and allows for the angle's/space issues that you're encountering. You might be able to fit something like that between the battery and radiator easier than your existing ANL holder. Just a thought...

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

It wont let me edit my previous post, but the part I mentioned is listed as MFB1/0-ANL

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Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com

just tap into the original remote wire

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---- 1996 Chevy S10 ----
1 Lightning Audio S2.600.2 Amp
2 Lightning Audio 12" Subs
1 Lightning Audio 1 Farad Cap