Print Page | Close Window

Navigator w/Premium Sound, No Sub

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=24343
Printed Date: June 11, 2024 at 8:21 AM


Topic: Navigator w/Premium Sound, No Sub

Posted By: gatorguy
Subject: Navigator w/Premium Sound, No Sub
Date Posted: January 10, 2004 at 8:55 PM

I recently added a new Head unit to my navigator with the Harness for Premium Sound I purchased from Best Buy. I have all the plugs but the sub isnt working and frankly the other speakers dont sound that great either. Anyone have any ideas why this might be happening or if you had the same problem how did you fix it?

Any help is appreciated

Thanks




Replies:

Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 10, 2004 at 10:44 PM
Lincoln premium (or "audiophile") systems require the factory head unit for the OEM subs (and center channel if you have it) to function.  There is an 8-pin connector on the back of the factory HU that contains the sub line level signals and power for the sub amp.  There is no adapter for this connector.  The only way to activate the OEM subs is to cut the connector, get the wiring diagram, and build your own jumpers to the sub outputs on your new HU.  Or install an aftermarket sub.  The reason the factory door speakers now sound bad is they are super-cheap drivers rated at 4 watts and your new HU is probably over-driving them.  You will need to upgrade your speakers.  Your Navigator uses 5X7 speakers.




Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 8:24 AM

So what your saying is the 3 pc harness I gto from Best Buy wont do the job. You dont happen to know the wiring config to do this do you? Or would I be better off just taking it in and letting the installers mess with it?





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 10:14 AM

Unless it was released very recently and I just don't know about it yet, there is no adapter for the sub connector.  I am very familiar with Lincolns - indeed one of my specialtys is the Lincoln LS sound system, and the Navigator uses the same hardware.  Does one of the pieces you bought have an 8-pin square connector on one end and RCA's on the other?

If you take the truck to a good custom install shop, they can probably get the wiring diagram and fabricate a way that you can use the OEM sub.  Best Buy will most likely NOT be able to handle the job.





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 10:30 AM

NO one end does NOT have the RCA's we have a shop here called Cars and Stereo's I think this may be a better job for them, thats ALL they do.

I dont have problem replacing door speakers, but I am not ready to tackle replacing subs etc, at least not until this one takes a crap on me, and then I might go with the the MTX Thunderform, but not real sure yet.

If you get your hands on any wirign diagrams, that would be great, I could use them

Thanks

Chris





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 10:57 AM

Is your factory in-dash HU a 6-disk changer with "Alpine" on it?  What year is the truck?





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 11:48 AM
It is the Alpine system with 6 disc changer yes you are correct and it is a 2000




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 12:31 PM

Your factory head unit should have three connectors on it.  The 20-pin is the standard power/speakers, etc. that I'm sure the kit you purchashed from Best Buy attaches to.  There is a 16-pin databus connector for your steering wheel controls that you now cannot use, just leave that one disconnected.  The third connector on the Alpine systems is for the center channels (if you have them) and the factory sub.  Here's the wiring on that connector:

position 1 = sub R line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub L line level signal (WHITE/ red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel R line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel L line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)

This is the generic wiring for all Lincoln systems... although in a Navigator, the wire colors might be slightly different.  To use it, connect the wire from pin 1 to the center connector on a RIGHT RCA, pin 2 to the center for LEFT, and pin 3 is the outer ring for both.  Connect these to the sub out on your new HU.  Connect your remote power lead to pin 4 and see if the sub 'wakes up."

The OEM sub in Lincoln autos is a 6X9 sub pushed by a 35 watt amp, so it will add in missing low frequencies but it will not "thump."

By the way, if you are interested in selling your factory Alpine changer, let me know as I may have buyers for it.

Good luck!





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 2:19 PM

So what I should do is on the RIGHT RCA on the NEW HU I should cut that and splice into it? Correct? Memory serves me right I do NOT have center channel as the 8 pin connector actually only has four pins. So essentially take those 4 pins and splice in to the RIGHT RCA on the NEW HU and it should go? I want omake sure before anything gets cut :)

By the way, yes, I am going to get rid of my factory Disc Changer if you know anyone thats interested. Make me an offer

Thanks again





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 2:36 PM

I was re-reading your post and think I just answered my own question,  but essentially splice 2 RCA's connect both outer rings to pin # 3 and the center Right to PIN1 and the center of LEft to PIN2 and then PIn4 to Remote.

I think I got it I will splice a par of Male RCA's and plug them into the deck to see if they work, Ill keep ya posted if your interested. My new deck arrives Wed. so well see what happens

Thanks

BY the way, if I want to change out the SUB do you have any good suggestions?





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 6:12 PM
You've got it.  I'll PM you if I get a buyer for the in-dash changer.




Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 6:15 PM

Just curious, you obviously have done this before, did you have good results with it?

Also, Just for my FYI, do the speaker grills in the doors pop out or do the door panels need to be completely removed to add speakers?





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 11, 2004 at 7:27 PM

Yea, I've done it before and as long as the sound from the factory sub is adequate for your taste, it works fine (especially if your new HU has adjustable sub level controls.)  The door panels must come off, the grills are part of the door panel.  Here are some instructions:

https://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalLincNavFSpkR.htm

https://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalLincNavRSpkR.htm

Cheers!





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 17, 2004 at 6:42 AM

Well, got everything in and the amp "woke up" and everything is working great. Question though, I have everything wired correctly though when I fade to the right or the left, the sub seems to drop deeper, , pound more, etc, etc, this tells me that the sub is wired in stereo, and not mono, is that correct?

IF this is the case, is there any way to change that or not?

You seem to have the right answers so I thought I would start here first

Thanks in advance





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 17, 2004 at 9:38 AM

Yes, the sub uses a stereo amp.  You say the sound is better when the balance is all the way to one side than when in the middle?  Hmm.  That's a new one on me.  Does you new HU have a sub output or are you using the rear main output?

I am glad to hear you got it working, though.  Congrats!





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 17, 2004 at 11:19 AM

The new HU  (pioneer) has a SUB OUT which is what I used, there just seesm to be more bass to the sub when all the way to the left or right versus dead nuts center.

Seems like the sub is wired for MONO but is being played in stereo.

Just curious if you had any ideas





Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 17, 2004 at 3:59 PM

Try increasing the output level on your sub channel.  Usually there are level adjustments like "+3, +9, +12" etc.  See if giving the sub amp a hotter signal helps.  Also, the OEM sub amp does not have any crossovers in it, so using the sub out on your deck, set it to 120 Hz or lower.  The OEM Alpine HU sub output crosses over at about 120 Hz.  Lincoln uses a stereo feed to a mono sub amp, IIRC.  The stereo signal is summed inside the amp.





Posted By: gatorguy
Date Posted: January 17, 2004 at 8:28 PM

Tried increasing the level of the sub and the sub plays a lot of Mid thur it, versus low freq's, I am afraind I may have to try moving into a stealthbox and new amp to achieve the results im looking for, got the deck set at 50mhz or lower for the sub, ill try bumping it up and messing around there. if any new developments arise, ill let ya know

Thanks





Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: January 18, 2004 at 8:29 PM

If your looking to replace your factory sub Q Logic makes an enclosure for one 10" sub. MTX also makes their own version that you can get powered or non powered. I would go with the Q Logic so you can pick your own sub. Enter your vehicle information at www.crutchfield.com in their vehicle selector(click on what fits my vehicle under the car audio section on the left) and you can look at the MTX and the Q logic enclosures that fit your Navigator.



-------------




Posted By: RufNUSD
Date Posted: January 19, 2004 at 12:44 AM
Maybe one channel was wired reverse polarity. I didnt scrutinize on the wording thru the last 5 posts but try reversing polarity on one of the rcas. Mel

-------------
Someone pass me that bottle.




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: January 19, 2004 at 8:23 AM

RufNUSD wrote:

Maybe one channel was wired reverse polarity. I didnt scrutinize on the wording thru the last 5 posts but try reversing polarity on one of the rcas. Mel

Good advice!






Print Page | Close Window