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Do I need a fused distribution block?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=24469
Printed Date: July 23, 2025 at 4:12 PM


Topic: Do I need a fused distribution block?

Posted By: SDmustang21
Subject: Do I need a fused distribution block?
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 9:55 PM

i'm running 3 amps pulling a max of 50 amps each, 150 amps max total, and have a question about the distribution block.  I have a couple of questions about them.

  • Am i correct in using a 150 amp fuse near the battery before the distribution block?
  • Do i really need to have a distribution block with fuses to the different amps? or can i just use a splitter?  I was wondering because they each have their own fuses on the amps themselves.  And i think i read on my JL 500 that it doesn't neet to be fused since it has it's own.
  • i also have 2 capacitors, one is 1 farad and the other is half farad. Is it ok to use them both? or should both be the same farads?

Here's a picture/diagram of what i'm talking about.  What i want to know is if at the distribution block, do i need 3 separate fuses? One 50 amp going to each of the amps? Oh yeah and that top farad (0.5)cap is connected with it's positive terminal just like  the bottom one(1 farad), the picture just got cut off which shows that.  and i didn't diagram the grounds since i know they all have to be grounded.

posted_image




Replies:

Posted By: bberman1
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 10:12 PM

As far as the 150 at the battery I can’t tell you if that are correct unless I know the output of the amp. But assuming you have the correct fuse size (150 amps) that is the way you fuse the main power cable

You do not need the fuses in the distro block. The 150 amp at the battery will protect the car as well as your power cable (just be sure your cable can handle 150 amps), and the fuses on the amps will protect the amp. Your fused dirtro would be for show

There is nothing wrong with the way you have the caps in the diagram.

Sounds to me like you have done your research and are headed in the rite direction





Posted By: SDmustang21
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 10:25 PM

Thanks bberman, you saved me some time, money and hassle. regualar power spliters without the fuses are easier to find in 0 guage to 4 guage

 And i think i did write that each amp maxed at 50 amps each. i'm also using 0 gauge power wire...err..i think it's 0/1 i dunno...it's the biggest size.  And it's been a hard finding a distro block with fuses from 0 gauge to 3/ 4 guage wires which is what i thought i had to use. 

Am i right that i have to use the same 0 gauge for the battery's negative terminal 

I figure 4 guage will be sufficient for each amp to be grounded with since i will be using 4 guage to each amp after the distro block.

i guess i'll also be using 0 gauge to do the alternator to the batter huh?

anyone know what a stock v6 ford mustang puts out at the alternator? i'm thining maybe i have to upgrade to a 200 amp alt. And i'm gonna get an optima battery soon.

This is a piece by piece project and i'm just rounding up the parts for the install before i do any work.  Got the whole car interior  in pieces inside my room..heh heh.

Again...thank you,,,thank you ....thank you!!! for all your replies





Posted By: wvsquirrel
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 10:55 PM
I had an '02 v6 mustang for a while, and if I remember right it was around a 105 amp alternator. I ran 2 amps totaling 820 watts max output with minimal problems. But, any dimming of the lights indicates a problem and a larger High Output alternator is the way to go (I didn't have mine long enough to get around to that upgrade).

Now I'm running 1,640 watts max output in a '97 Explorer sport (more like 1,160 nominal). I have the 130 amp factory alternator but still need to get a High Output one. That's really the core to any car stereo (the alternator), without the right power requirements even the best amplifier in the world wont perform like it could.

If you're running 1/0 gauge to the distro block, then yes you want to use 1/0 from and alternator to the battery as well as for the battery's ground.

-------------
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com




Posted By: bberman1
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 11:17 PM
A good place for connectors, fuse blocks ect is Darvex https://www.darvex.com here is a 0 to (4) 4 gauges if your still interested https://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=SFPD2ANL&Category_Code=FDB . For all your cabling needs I would suggest Knukoncepz  https://knukonceptz.com they have excellent quality cable, rca, and speaker wire at affordable prices. You have the correct gauge cable 0 for the main and 4 gauge to the amps. As far as the Alternator goes with a draw of 150 amps you will need to replace the alternator and upgrade all the cables in between the alternator battery and chassis to 0 gauge. Below are some good places to look
Dominick 615-287-7991, Michiana Rebuilders 1-800-627-4812,
 C.S.A 1-334-712-9955 or 1-334-791-6272, https://www.mechman.com/home.html
https://www.wranglernw.com
https://www.mralternator.com
https://www.alternatorparts.com
https://www.mean-green.com




Posted By: SDmustang21
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 11:28 PM

Thanks for the posts! Really appreciate the help.



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Buy it, install it, play with it. Then take it back out, read the instructions, install it better!




Posted By: wvsquirrel
Date Posted: January 12, 2004 at 11:31 PM
no prob, glad to help

-------------
Squirrel
"No more Cpt. Kirk chit chat"
If its too loud, then you're too old
Donate to the12volt.com





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