ground loop problem

il. getting to much ground loop noise coming from an electronic crossover and ... i know is from it b/c if i connect from the HU to the amps i get nothing "0" noise i tried RCA  type but i can only get rid of some , and the loop noise is still very noticable.. i put in a heavy dutty ground loop isolator the one the you connect to the power cable but the make it wrost... can it be that i connected to the same ground as everything else i have two amp and 1 crossover plus the ground loop isolator to the same bolt the holds the sit is like about a 8 gauge od thickness... any help

sorry is not just a ground loop is also alternator signal .. after i moved the rca filter to a different spot the noise went away.. but when i turn the car on there it was .. the damn noise again... what can i do...

I'm sorry, but after reading over what you wrote. It doesnt make any sense to me. Regardless of that fact.

Ground Trouble Shooting 101:


1. All ground points start from the negative battery post. If you have not increased the wire guage, do so now.


2. Power: All power lines shall be installed opposite of the data / signal lines. If you have not spaced the power wires from the signal wires, do so now.


3. Ground: All ground termination points shall be affixed to the lower floor pan, with a bolt and star washer of the appropiate size in surface area. Applying dielectric grease compond will increase the flow of current and inhibit moisture, which will prevent corrosion.


4. Preparation: All contact (ground) points shall be clean and free of paint, primer, and clear coat. Untill the fist surface is has been penatrated. Cover the affected area with the appropiate silicone sealent upon completion.


5. Noise: Is either induced, or amplified. You do not have a clue as to which one you have. Figure it out, and follow the grounding procedures which applies to each. If you do not know, ask.


6. Varify that your electrical charging system is fully operational, via a AVR test.


7. Gain: If the amplifer(s) gains are increased passed its useable limits, this will increase, and promote the noise.


8. Maximized S/N from the HU: If you have not calibrated the volume to its maximum output, with the gain, this will promote more noise.


9. Hi Quality RCA: If you are using poor quality cables which are not shielded. It will be more apparent in situations of induced interferrence.


10. Ground Loop Isolator: You are wasting money on something that IS a last resort, which you already know does not work. Find the problem, dont simply throw money at it and *think* it will work.


The End . . .


Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

   

kalito wrote:

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also alternator signal .. after i moved the rca filter to a different spot the noise went away.. but when i turn the car on there it was .. the damn noise again...

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Read my reply as it pertains to *Induced* noise. If one of the diode packs are defective, it will emit RFI / EMI into the vehicles electrical system.

The AVR test will varify this fact.

If the alternator diode packs are fine, and the noise is still there upon revving the engine, then again the noise is being induced, due to poor ground *a potential difference exist* in your ground plane.

Reground all points of contact, and move all data / signal cables from the power sources which are near by.

Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

kalito wrote:

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how can i perfor a AVR test?

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You cannot perform a standard AVR test unless you have the equipment, or unless you're a mechanic, or one who is tool junky.

But you can ensure that all ignition components are fully operational and free of defects.

ie. Ignition wires, use your DMM and measure the resistance of the wires. Each manufacture will have a tolerance as to what value is too high, or too low.

Honda's OEM wires are aprox. 12K ohms. If the wires are off more than 2 K each way, that is a sign of dielectric insulation break down. Pull each end to ensure they are not cracked which will emit RFI.

Spark plugs: If you are using none resistive plugs this will promote RFI into the system.

Cap & Rotor: If the cap shows signs of carbon tracking (lighting bolt) cracks. This indicates that the dielectric compond is at its end of life and not shielding your vehicle.

If the rotor and its screw down is worn, this again will cause noise..

kalito wrote:

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yourhelp is highly appriciated!

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That is why we are all here, to learn and help one another.


Please make the appropiate changes and varify all the things I have listed in the top ten list.

If the noise is still there, after all 10 checks have been implemented, please come back and we can start the trouble shooting procedures again.


Regards

EVIL Teken . . .

Teken] wrote:

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I'm sorry, but after reading over what you wrote. It doesnt make any sense to me. NOR DOES YOURS

2. Power: All power lines shall be installed opposite of the data / signal lines. If you have not spaced the power wires from the signal wires, do so now.

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Though this is a best practice it is not neccessary. The largest wire in your vehicle is the vehicle itself. How are going to not run your signal cables along the chassis which carries varying currents which can be induced.

Upgrade the ground at the battery? To what a 2 gauge? Another story another time.

The correct way to troubleshoot this is using muting plugs. Goto www.autosound2000.com and pry into noise troubleshooting. You may be surprised.

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Someone pass me that bottle.

RufNUSD wrote:

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Though this is a best practice it is not neccessary.

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Explain this to me?

RufNUSD wrote:

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The largest wire in your vehicle is the vehicle itself.

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You are generalizing. The vehicles chassis frame is the point of ground reference, which all electrical circuits make contact points to.

RufNUSD wrote:

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How are going to not run your signal cables along the chassis which carries varying currents which can be induced.

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Wrong . . . The chassis frame has a potential difference, and does not carry any current. It is the point of contact that creates the flow of voltage & current through a conductor.

Explain to me how this isn't so???

RufNUSD wrote:

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Upgrade the ground at the battery? To what a 2 gauge? Another story another time.

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How about you explain to me the process and the effects of current flow, and how cable diameter does not affect it???

RufNUSD wrote:

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The correct way to troubleshoot this is using muting plugs.

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Explain this to me??? What does this have to do with starting an installation in the correct manner?

Teken . . .