Crossfire VS. RF

it did also say that it was 300 x 1 @ 2 ohms. as far as what would be better, i couldn't answer that. hope this helps.

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Why are you always comparing amps with their fuse sizes? It is like the roughest possible way to compare amps. Just read their specs.

Amplifiers are called amps for a reason, they are not called wattlifiers for the same reason. The size of a fuse in an amp is a very good indication of what kind of output the amp is really capable of. Another thing to consider is the efficiency of the amp, a Class D Crossfire is on the average of 80% efficient vs. maybe 55% efficient in a Class AB Rockford. What happens to a lot of people that read specs is that they read what they want to see instead of what they need to see. For most people they do not compare things on a level playing field. An indication in this case of why I asked for the fuse size is fairly simple.

12 volts x 80 amps = 960 watts (at 100% efficientcy). This amp was only rated at 150 watts @ 40hm and 600 watts @ 1 ohm, this amp in particular has always exceeded it's recommended power, as do alot of others in the industry. It also has a subsonic filter built in to eliminate alot of wasted power, this in turn delivers much more of the amplifiers power into usable power in the amplified frequency range.Be it a good amp or not, it still has to be matched to the sub(s) properly, which is why I asked what the impedance is and now am asking for the number of voice coils, single or dual.

Cleaner bass will have more to do with the box than the impedance that the amp is seeing. Your subs can either series / parallel wire to 4 ohm mono or all parallel wire to 1 ohm mono. In either case you need an amp that has a big bejesus output of 1200w rms at either 4 ohm mono or 1 ohm mono. This leads you to either a monster 2 channel amp that is on a real good day 70% efficient, or a class D which on a real bad day is 70% efficient. I would head in the direction of the class D mono sub amp, as some have a subsonic filter built into them. This filter will no doubt make a more efficient use of power and protect the subs from damaging bottom end. Either amp is going to have a good size current draw.

Now just because the subs say they can take 350w rms does not mean that you need to power them that way. Any sub can and will play with a lower power rating and do a great job at it, provided you do not throw a clipped signal into them. This is the danger of a amp that is too small and in some cases a cd player with a low preout ot clipped preout signal. If you are one that wants to annoy the neighbourhood with big bad bottom end that you want to play all the time, then you are the person who needs a big amp, more power than recommended is fine. Make sure that the gains are set right and do not clip the input signal from the cd player, as even the best amp that is too big can cause damaga to a sub if it is given a clipped signal from a cd player.

From what I have heard is that the lower the impedance lead to the amp, the sloppier the output signal. Which is why I was looking for something at 4 ohms. I was thinking possibly a RF 1050s amp, which is exactly what I need. I would really like to buy the JL audio amp, but they are pretty expensive. I am alllllll about the Hard Hitting tight low end bass. I could care less if it plugs my ears, i just wanna be able to start my heart back up if im having a heart attack. lol.