2001 Monte delayed power?

I'm installing a new head unit into a 2001 Monte Carlo LS and the Metra wiring harness comes with a note saying that a switched power lead does not exist in the factory wiring harness (i'm guessing the computer tells the factory radio when to turn "on" over the data bus lead in the harness). 

What i would like to do is to retain the delayed radio power option that the factory radio has with my new Kenwood head unit.  I was thinking i could do this by tapping into the power windows - which are still hot after the key is turned off and until the doors are opened.  i figured i'd tap into the window switch supply and use that lead to energize a relay with a fused power source direct from the battery.  that way the current draw from the relay shouldn' t blow any factory power window fuses - which it "could" if i hooked the new radio up directly to the power window lead.

My main question: where is a good place to tap into the power window lead?  can it be done in the driver's kickpanel area or under the dash without pulling the door panel?  i'd really like to not have to pull the door panel and trace wires.  or could i just pull the switch?  (just thought of that as i'm typing). 

since neither Haynes nor Chilton has bothered to publish a body manual for this vehicle yet, i'm kinda reluctant to start pulling off panels - i never know if it's held on with a hidden clip which will pop off OR a hidden screw which will snap off a panel tab somewhere!

thanks!

Your plan might work, but if the GM off-delay is like the Ford off-delay, the circuitry is inside the Visteon head unit not from the computer.  You will probably need the Chevrolet factory wiring diagram for the car, which can be purchased through any dealer for about $40.

i looked at the Metra GMRC-01 harness on several websites and it looked like all it did was retain the factory door chime.  i don't really care about the door chime as much as the computer interface.  i did not see any provisions on the harness to relocate the factory radio so i can retain my computer settings interface.  i DO have the Metra 70-2003T GM 2000-up Class 2 Data Retention Harness and inside on the instruction sheet it says "Due to the fact that a switched 12-volt accessory lead does NOT exist in the factory harness, an accessory source must be located."  that's what i'm trying to do. 

the windows are hot while the factory radio is hot - even after turning off the key.  i figure they must use the same singal source for time delay.  i also figure the power window relay (switched by the computer?) can handle the tiny current load of another relay to power the required switched accessory lead for the aftermarket radio.

i'm just wondering if anyone who has worked on a monte could help me out with locating this one wire...

on another note  though: since the factory system has an outboard amp in the trunk, am i correct in assuming that i will either have to: 1) drop my speaker leads from my Kenwood down to linelevel to interface into the factory harness at the dash, 2) bypass the factory harness/amp and run wires directly to the factory speakers, or 3) use Kenwood linelevels and aftermarket amp and speakers (this was intended to just be a headunit swap - not an entire system swap)?

Thank you chrisswallace187 for the clarification.

Now, if you have a factory amp in this vehicle and you want to make it an easy install, use Metra part# GMOS-03 instead of the GMRC-01. It is the same piece except the GMOS-03 will interface your factory amps for you.

Recap; GMOS-03 WILL keep delayed accessory feature.

              GMOS-03 WILL interface factory amp.

              GMOS-03 You DO NOT have to keep the factory radio in the vehicle.

I am not 100% sure that the GMRC-01 works that way, but it makes sense, but in order for me to refer that way I would have to be 100%. If you say it will work, cool, run with it, but if you have not tried it in that application please let the general public know. The chimes on the amplified vehicles are powered by the amp not the radio.

well, since i started this post i suppose i should do the courtesy of keeping anyone reading it updated of my decisions and status (especially anyone who is learning about montes from it!).

what i've decided to do is keep the Metra 70-2003T harness i have because i WANT to relocate the factory deck because i WANT to retain my computer interface so i can reset options.  since the Metra 70-2003T harness has a plug for hooking up a speaker for the "door chimes" i plan on attaching an $0.87 Ford 2" speaker that I got from Parts Express and hiding that down under the dash somewhere that i can still hear it, but not see it.  i kinda like the chime to remind me of when my parking brake is on. 

since the Metra 70-2003T harness doesn't knock the aftermarket speaker leads down to linelevel, i'm planning on running new wires to all speaker locations and bypassing the factory wiring and amp.  i've read in different posts that only the rear 6x9s are run off of the rear deck amp but i'm going to check into that carefully.  I would much prefer to just run wires to the trunk for the 6x9s and use the factory wiring harness for the front door speakers (then i don't have to pull the door panels!) - but i don't want to risk damaging the amp (it all goes back to stock when i sell it someday) if in fact the amp drives all 4 speakers.

i've surfed around and found instructions for removing the dash panel around the radio and i'm just going to yank the door panels the old fashioned way - carefully.  i also PLAN on taking digital pictures as i go and possibly posting them on my website for others to learn from when working on a monte carlo.  we'll see how ambitious i get!

i just hope i can keep this thing from snowballing into a full system...i still have all my old PPI white Art series amps from when i competed back in 95 and the A1200 shell which i purchased with the intent to cover my crossover and power distribution (and now sirius satellite tuner).  the bottom side of that trunk lid is a huge flat area that just seems to scream "mount things on me!"  :) of course if i install the PPI amps, i need a new sub box and forced air cooling and neon and actuators and...ah...the good old days before careers and family!

i might stop by the local GM dealer and see how much the electrical schematic would cost too...

thanks to everyone for all the help!

FYI:  system is in and works great.  everything went as planned (essentially!).

i did take pics and have the website chronicling the install about 70% done.  i'll post the address in a new post for anyone that's interested as soon as i get it finished and FTP'd to the server.  hopefully up by last week of march.