Rewiring Door Speakers

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=28548
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 4:10 PM

Topic: Rewiring Door Speakers

Posted By: GasGuzz
Subject: Rewiring Door Speakers
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:16 AM

Hello Neighbors,

I would like to abandon the wimpy 18ga OEM front door speaker wires, and install new heavier wiring.

Well, I don't see how I could push/pull new wire through the factory gooseneck boot between the door and car body.

What's the alternative, drill (OMG) and install a new flex boot/conduit?

What kinda' watts can you push through the factory speaker wires?

Thanks.

Replies:

Posted By: jugga-nemo
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:34 AM

I used a coat hanger that I bent straight with a hook on the end to hold onto the wire that I was running. The rubber just pops out of the door and body (like any other grommet) and pops back in with ease also. The toughest part that I encountered was pulling the hanger back through the rubber after I got the wire through. You could drill a new hole, but it only took me about 20-30 minutes to get the wire through the gooseneck (first time I've done that).

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5.25" Components & 5x7 Coax Kappas w/Power Acoustik OV4-800
KAC 7252 powering 2 D3 8" Diamonds
KDC-MP728, KGC-4042A

Posted By: GasGuzz
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 10:50 AM

Makes sense.

Now, I won't even consider a new hole/conduit. There's more probs with that.

Good post, Jugga-man.

Posted By: Sweekster
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 11:10 AM

Best thing (and easiest) to do is what Jugga said. Since you're going to be replacing the wiring anyway there really isn't a need to drill another hole. Before pulling the old wire out, pop out the rubber boot from both the body and the door. Then removed the kick panel cover and slip a metal coat hanger through the body, into the car, and tape the new speaker wires to it and pull it through the body. Then pull the old wire out of the door and and out of the rubber boot and then slip the new wire through the boot and into the door....and there ya go. Only way you would have to drill new holes is if this is a 4 door car that didn't have speakers or power door locks/windows in the rear doors..

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Duane...

If you think you're confused, imagine how you feel. posted_image

Posted By: markcars
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 4:23 PM

Just be a little careful with the tape holding the wire at the end of the coat-hanger. What I do is I tie a knot with the wire to the wirehanger's loop at the end, hopefully the knot isnt too big to pass through the hole where the original wire was. If the knot is too big then you could "U" bend the wire in half and pass the middle onto the wirehanger's loop. Hope I made sense?

Posted By: Custom_Jim
Date Posted: March 17, 2004 at 6:58 PM

Some of the car's it is tough to get new wires run through the door grommet tubes and HOPEFULLY, you don't have one of those ignorant vehicles (like my wife's 98 Escort) that has a molded hard plastic plug mounted on the car side of the cowl that the door harness with the rubber boot plugs into. I can understand the design from an assembly line standpoint but it makes running wires in some of the new cars a royal pain. If you take your time and use some of the hints like above, you should be able to get the new wires run. You might also want to leave a pull wire in there for any later wiring that you might add.

Jim

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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street