Small amp?

I want to upgrade my speaker amp, it needs to be around 70x4 rms. But it also needs to have a small footprint becuase it needs to fit under my passenger seat, right now i have an mtx amp and its clean , but i want really really clean!

thanks, matt

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everything stolen :(
Workin on a new system :)
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Peace in the middle east

Really, really clean?  Nakamichi PA-1004.  But it might be a little large depending on what kind of car you have.

its a 94 accord ex, and that looks slightly large but ... it may fit, but it does need to be a little higher power or maybe not , is mtx ratings pretty accurate when it somes to there amps?? i have about a 2 year old thunder series 55x4 i think... ??

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everything stolen :(
Workin on a new system :)

Peace in the middle east

MTX tends to be pretty accurate.  Nakamichi tends to be fairly conservative and the 1004 probably puts out an effective 70 or 80 watts per channel into 4 ohms.  Another suggestion for good clean power is an Eclipse EA3422.

I have been very happy with the Xtant 404 and 604, they are a bit long, but should fit fine under your seat...

https://www.altomobile.com/html/gd_series.html

Check out the Digital amps from Alto! These things are STUPID clean! Digital also means a VERY small footprint, should fit under your seat with no issue at all... Plus, you were asking for 70X4, and this'll get you 100X4, and NO this will not blow your speakers, just be careful with the gain... don't crank it all the way up, or yes you will blow your speakers. (please see the post about gain settings further down the list...) Also, digital means you won't have to upgrade your alternator anytime in the near future... Unfortunately they were not available when I went to complete my system...

Oh, and I forgot... ONLY 1400 watts?!?! I got TWICE that to my single 12! RMS! This is why I had to upgrade my alternator! 165 amps continuous! Never overlook the importance of the alternator! Your power does not come from the battery, it comes from the alternator! Did I mention you need to remember your alternator? You should probably upgrade your alternator, 1400 watts is too much to run on a stock Honda alternator... take it from me! Been there, done that! Caps and batteries absolutely DO NOT (did I say *DO NOT*) replace a low current output alternator. By the way, don't forget the alternator!


2001 Honda Civic LX
Eclipse 8051 E8 deck
Eclipse 3122 driving Infinity emit Kappa tweeters 80w X 2
Eclipse 32440 driving Eclipse 89940 Point source 6X9's 120w X 4, bi-wired, bi-amped
Eclipse 34230 driving Morel MW-162 6" midbass in doors 370w X 2
Eclipse DA7122 driving Eclipse SW9122 12" Titanium sub 1350w X 2
RedTop Optima 12v under the hood
2 RedTop Optima 6v in trunk, one each side wired in series
2 Rockford Fosgate 1 Farad caps on custom hand built power bars
Alterstart 165 Amp alternator with Datel 150A Current Shunt and blue LED meter for monitoring current output

Good call, DYohn. ( This thread needs to be bumped up.)  The site you referred to is in my favorites list, and along with this forum an educating but very pleasant pastime. 

DYohn] wrote:

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I have not had the chance to test anything from Alto yet. This is a Taiwanese company (SEIKAKU Technical Group) which usually means the specs tend to be a bit exaggerated. After I have a chance to see one, I can report on it. and on their power efficiency claims...

I will say your comments about "be careful with the gain, don't crank it up" warns me that you may not understand how a gain setting is supposed to be used. Please read a good resource like https://www.bcae1.com/gaincon2.htm before you offer advice, OK? No offense, just want to make sure others don't get the wrong idea.

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The Alto gear is excellent, if a little slow to the retail market... I have been using Alto Pro gear for years in my home as well as in my job. The 12 volt stuff is the same as the 120 volt stuff, just adapted to the car environment. (although it is not as simple as "just" adapting it) I agree that the Taiwanese markets usually exaggerate the truth, but I can assure you that Alto does not. I am intimately familiar with the gear, and it DOES do everything it says it does. I am waiting for the UCS-Pro so I can complete my system finally... I will use the gear, and I will recommend the gear. It is good stuff.

Sorry DYohn, we have been over this gain thing on earlier posts... I do indeed understand how a gain control should be used, but I may not have completely finished my thought... what I meant to say was "don't crank it up" ...just because you can! I checked out the page you posted, and I agree with all the info there, but here is the way I do it, and it has always worked for me... (that's what is cool about this country... eh?) Turn the amp gains all the way down, then while playing a fairly loud CD, turn the deck up JUST UNTIL YOU HEAR DISTORTION, but never more than about 75% of full volume, back it off till you don't hear it anymore, THEN adjust the amp gain upward, until the distortion starts again or your speakers start to complain... this is the proper setting, don't mess with it. This will give you maximum output with the best S/N ratio, and the lowest distortion. This is how you match the output of your HU to the input of the amp. Usually this setting procedure is best left to people that really can hear what is happening during the process.

There are people out there that are very experienced in this field, and are willing to share what they know. DYohn and Forbidden are two of those people, and their advice can be taken at face value... they really do know what they are talking about.

Thanks for understanding, and I'm sorry if I jumped too hard.  I just get real gun-shy about people thinking gain controls can be used like volume controls.  I look forward to your further inputs!

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ya guys, i got a 135amp contunious HO alt. DONT worry ! ahahah, okay so i know all about gain settings and such thats why i need a new amp im not getting CLEAN volume out of the amp that i already have... so this digital stuff..? whats this all about , forbidden you out there?

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everything stolen :(
Workin on a new system :)

Peace in the middle east

OK, "digital" is a misnomer... Pulse width modulated is FAR more correct. It is really only digital in the respect that the transistors inside are ALWAYS either fully on or fully off. Just really really fast... Here is a good page on the subject...

https://www.prosoundweb.com/live/articles/biner/digitalamps3.shtml

Personally, I am a fan, especially the newest generations of digital amps... With switching frequencies in the multi-megacycle range, they are more than fast enough to do a 20k waveform. For tose of you who are NOT fans of digital amplifiers, please refer to www.tactaudio.com or www.spectronav.com With prices like these, do you think REAL audiophiles would buy them if they sounded like crap? Just MY two cents...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Digital amps are best used for subs only right now.