'99 sonoma extended cab
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=30135
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 11:09 AM
Topic: '99 sonoma extended cab
Posted By: dyno
Subject: '99 sonoma extended cab
Date Posted: April 10, 2004 at 10:40 PM
Hey, I'm having some problems getting the door trim off the two doors in my 99' sonoma extended cab. I can't seem to get the manual window crank off. In the Haynes manual it says something about taking a spring clip off, but i don't see that anywhere when I pry at the drim. Any advice on how to remove the manual window crank? Thanks,
-dyno
Replies:
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 10, 2004 at 11:03 PM
Usually there is a spring clip on the backside of the handle that holds it to the shaft. You can grab it with needle nose pliers once you locate it, but they can be a pain. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: robbie2883
Date Posted: April 10, 2004 at 11:04 PM
There is a clip holding the crank onto the shaft. just look harder. there is a special tool for taking it off, but you can get it off with a flathead screwdriver. Just be carefull. The clip will fly if you aren't and then you risk lossing it. The clip is shaped like a C. You will probably have to push the door trim away from the crank alittle to see the clip. Good luck. ------------- if its jammed force it - if it breaks in the process it needed to be fixed anyway
Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 10, 2004 at 11:12 PM
k thanks guys. i'll check it out in the morning when there's light outside :) -dyno
Posted By: superstreet786
Date Posted: April 10, 2004 at 11:43 PM
im just glad i got an S10 with power windows :)
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---- 1996 Chevy S10 ----
1 Lightning Audio S2.600.2 Amp
2 Lightning Audio 12" Subs
1 Lightning Audio 1 Farad Cap
Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 9:30 AM
Awesome, thanks. I got the clip off (not before shedding some blood from my fingers though). I still can't seem to get the trim off though. I removed the door handle cover, and i've undone what I think is all the plastic clips around the inside of the door trim. It feels like there's still something holding it on by the door handle though. maybe it's just getting hung up? Or is there some special trick? -dyno
Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 9:57 AM
While I'm asking questions... Any recommendations on a good spot to go through the firewall? I found an empty plug on the passenger side, but i can't seem to get to it in the engine compartment? Know of any easy existing spots? Also, my positive batter post is nicely corroded. I got it off, and I have a replacement post, the post is kind of "stuck" in the main power wire if you know what I mean. Do I just need to pry at it to get it out? -dyno
Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 10:56 AM
Got the door trim off! I was missing two screws that were up underneath the stationary handle. Still don't know about the power wire though. -dyno
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 11:07 AM
If your battery terminal looks kind of like this:  it is a molded cable and must be replaced. If there is enough length, you could cut it back until you find good, uncorroded wire and then install your new terminal, but in general once these get corroded, replace them. ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 11:30 AM
Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 11:39 AM
I hate side-terminal batteries! Actually that one doesn't look too bad. Get some baking soda and dissolve a couple tablespoons in water, and scrub that terminal and connector with a toothbrush to remove the acid corrosion. Then scrub the battery connection face with a brass wire brush to remove oxidation. Does your new post use the existing connector (the red part) or are you supposed to replace that? If it is intended to be replacd, the wire will have to be cut back and stripped to install into the new terminal, or replaced. Does the new terminal have a bolt-down clamp for the power cable? If you decide to replace the wire, you might consider installing a larger gage cable back to the alternator... ------------- Support the12volt.com
Posted By: robbie2883
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 8:51 PM
pour some coca-cola all over the terminal and watch it fizz....it may take a couple trys and some minor scrubbing with a brillo pad or wire brush, but that terminal will look brand new and shiny when you're done. ------------- if its jammed force it - if it breaks in the process it needed to be fixed anyway
Posted By: Ketel22
Date Posted: April 11, 2004 at 9:10 PM
that post looks clean compared to when i pulled mine off. If you are going to replace the terminal for shure, you need to cut it. i did this to my s10. the smaller ring of plastic hold the terminal in, and it also prevent the new terminal from properly seat, so the smaller plastic ring needs to be cut off all you need to do is use dykes or something its fairly simple.
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Posted By: dyno
Date Posted: April 12, 2004 at 6:55 PM
Well, I ended up having to replace my battery today (long story). Anyway, I didn't replace the cable end, just used the spare post. I haven't sealed it up nicely yet as it's now dark outside. I'll have to do that tomorrow after work. I think I've solved all my problems now. Thanks everyone for the help! -dyno
Posted By: HumbleI
Date Posted: April 12, 2004 at 7:38 PM
I had that same problem with my chevy silverado 1500... it got to the point that the corrosion was so bad that you would drive and the car would just shut off.. scary sh*t if your making turns with trucks around on a highway or something... I replaced my battery too, and the cables ... but before that.. a temporary fix was grinding the terminals down and then rubbing vasoline or engine oil all over it... but the baking soda thing works the best that the other guy suggested...
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