subwoofer box
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=30871
Printed Date: May 01, 2024 at 9:41 AM
Topic: subwoofer box
Posted By: mross014
Subject: subwoofer box
Date Posted: April 22, 2004 at 7:18 PM
I just purchased two 10" Phoenix Gold Titaniun 4 ohm DVC subs to replace two MTX subs in a Q Logic bandpass box. After removing one sub, I noticed that the box was a poorly constructed 1/2" MDF. It was obvious that the Titaniums would tear the box apart. Can anyone suggest a site to buy a decent box. Also, should I go with a bandpass or a sealed box and what volumes?
-------------
LivnLouder by the paycheck
Replies:
Posted By: bfog99
Date Posted: April 22, 2004 at 8:22 PM
i personally like sealed better than bandpass. in fact, i don't like bandpass. in my opinion, they look ok but they sound like poo poo most of the time. the phoenix gold website suggests .55 ft^3 for "musical" and .3 ft^3 for SPL.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: April 22, 2004 at 8:23 PM
Were the MTX subs shot? Probably because of the box. Check the PG specs for a sealed box. It should tell you what ft3 volume you must have. I have noted that the expert consensus here is to avoid a prefab bandpass box. If you feel that (bandpass) is the type of sound you want, then have an expert make one specifically for your new subs.
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: April 22, 2004 at 10:47 PM
Q-Logic normally builds a really good box, perhaps this one had seen better days, nonetheless it has had it's day and bandpass is not the way to go.
-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: flatulatta
Date Posted: April 22, 2004 at 10:55 PM
build a sealed box urself a whole lot cheaper and u know how u built it and what was put in it.... goto home depot a giant sheet of 3/4 mdf is like 15$$ plus the cut it all the lengths u need then just get liquid nails and some wood screews and some polyeurethene and ur ready....all thats left is to make speakers holes
Posted By: xTimx
Date Posted: April 23, 2004 at 1:05 AM
i totally agree with flatulatta, is TONS cheaper to build yourself a box and its a hell of an experience too. i love making sub boxes, its getting to the point where i make awesome sub boxes and sellign them for cheap. the amount for a 4 x 8' board is only 20$ at home depot here in canada, glue is only 4$ a bottle, a box of 1 1/4" screws are hardly even 5$, if you have a silicone gun at home, a tube of white silicone is only 6$, trouble is you need to get yourself a saw, if you dont have a table saw, use a skill saw, canadian Tire just got a new straight cut guide for a skill saw which is very handy and only 50$, and if you dont have a skill saw, then get yourself a jig saw, lol i seriously have made all my boxes, cutting with the jig saw, its a hell of a lot more controling than the skill saw. but alot slower. carpeting the box is another thing you can do. its way easy to carpet a box and you can get w/e you need from your local car stereo store, i bought mine for 20$ for 3 yrds. dont forget speaker terminals which are 2$ a peice. so in total your only looking at around 60$, when a professional box will run your from 80-100$
-------------
xTimx
Posted By: speedwayaudio1
Date Posted: April 23, 2004 at 4:04 AM
go with a sealed box, build it your self. it's not that hard. and it can be fun too.
-------------
Big Dave
Posted By: fuseblower
Date Posted: April 23, 2004 at 12:53 PM
go with a sealed box... you can build it yourself and have bragging rights on how good you are. If you need help with the measurements there are a few free programs that are out there.
Posted By: sam1
Date Posted: April 23, 2004 at 4:24 PM
ive built countless MDF boxes. its really easy. lately ive ventured outside the realm of square and now im in the prcess of building myself 2 fiberglass boxes. its pretty easy too, but alot messier. and you can make them fit anywhere you want. if you want to go this way, youll probably spend 100bucks and itll be totally custom. if you had an audio shop build one for you, youd be more in the realm of 500-1500bucks depending. just for a box. anyways, if you want to check out fg, heres a couple howtos on it. https://www.e-kittan.com/fibre.html https://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/main/
Posted By: mross014
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 1:17 PM
bfog99 wrote:
i personally like sealed better than bandpass. in fact, i don't like bandpass. in my opinion, they look ok but they sound like poo poo most of the time. the phoenix gold website suggests .55 ft^3 for "musical" and .3 ft^3 for SPL.
------------- LivnLouder by the paycheck
Posted By: mross014
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 1:49 PM
The recommended box volume for a 10" Phoenix Gold Titanium Sub is between .3 and .55 cu ft. I will have to build my own box because I can't find anything that small out there with those specs. Most 10" dual boxes are .75 to 1.5 cu ft. Maybe I am reading it wrong and that is the combined volume. In that case .3 to .55 cu ft multiplied by two is .6 to 1.1 cu ft. Therefore a 1 cu ft box would be good for music and SPL. Anybody have any advice about my math. ------------- LivnLouder by the paycheck
Posted By: icu400
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 3:41 PM
I have a quick question about building a box. I have heard liquid nails are the way to go, but how do they work exactly)? Thats about it, thanks.
Posted By: flatulatta
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 4:35 PM
liquid nails is like glue basically...wut i did is layed down liquid nails for the whole box and went back and put 1in screws every in or so i stood on my box and jumped and everything and no movement...also i went back over every crease with 100% pure polyurethene sealant on the inside and some on the outside.... on my previous sub i had actually put the sealant around the sub as well... but decided not to on this one
Posted By: icu400
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 5:00 PM
awesome
ok, now then:
as far as mounting the sub, 2 things:
1) how do you cut the hole in the wood, with what tool? I have a jig saw and a dremel tool that I think would both work, which might be better? (I will draw the hole with a compass i guess)
2) does there need to be anything around the diameter of the hole between the wood and the woofer, or just screw it in and its ok?
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 5:07 PM
I always use a jig saw to cut the whole jus because a dremall can be painfully slow when ou are cutting out a whole in 3/4 inch mdf. When you cut the hole MAKE SURE YOU DONT MAKE THE HOLE 12" FOR A 12" SUB, you need to know the diameter of the basket inside the mounting ring not the outside or else you will try to put the sub in and it will fall right threw the hole. I have seen to many guys do it. As far as your last question, you can use foam tape if you want, it kinda depends on the finish of the box as to wheather you need to or not.
-------------
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 7:07 PM
Some factory-packed woofers have a template included in the cardboard packaging. There was one with the CV sub that I got recently, and I didn't recognize it as a template, and did the painstaking measuring and drawing the cutout. Look for a cardboard circle fitting over the back of the sub.
-------------
Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: icu400
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 7:58 PM
yeah, my sub is 9 1/4 mount diameter, but thanks for the tip
while we are talking about boxes, i have 2 other simple questions
I am going to be making a stealthbox for my explorer. I am gonna measure it out so that it is the factory recomended volume for my sub. But does the weird shape of a stealthbox affect the sound at all, as opposed to a square box like most are? I would think its the volume that counts, but just wanting to make sure.
Also, is there any trick to mounting the terminals in the box, should I try and make those as air tight as possible of course? Mainly will the little hole in the middle for the wire matter?
thanks
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: April 26, 2004 at 8:05 PM
You are right, volume is what counts. Actually, weird shapes are better than a perfect cube. Make sure the terminal jackplate is contacting wood and not the carpet. Use a bead of speaker sealing caulk around its base and tighten securely. There shouldn't be a concern with air escaping through where the wire is connected. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: icu400
Date Posted: April 27, 2004 at 7:04 AM
awesome, thanks man
|