Sub and Amp?

Im looking for a decent sub and amp combo. Im not looking to spend more than 500 for it all.

Thanks

Point taken.

I am also looking to buy a head unit so I will be putting one in. The car has an infinity system in it now. I listen to all different styles of music so I want a sub that hits crisp and clean. I really would like to conserve the weight and space and just run one sub with a small box if possible. Im not looking to sit at the stoplight and just rattle the hell out of the cars next to me. Its mainly just so I have some nice sounding music in my car.

It sounds like you have a chrylser vehicle. I would recommend a basic 10" sub in a small sealed box. The Lighning Audio Strike S3.10.4 is a great little sub for this and works in a nice small sealed enclosure. IT has a power handling of 300w rms so there are a whole pile of amplifiers available to drive this sub. Power matched properly to the sub matched properly to the box  = crisp and clean sound, exactly what you are after. Choose a good cd player, I will always recommend an Eclipse, make sure that it has a variable sub level preout. Say like the CD3434.

www.lightningaudio.com

www.eclipse-web.com

Mrhunter wrote:

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Im not looking to sit at the stoplight and just rattle the hell out of the cars next to me. Its mainly just so I have some nice sounding music in my car.

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Isn't 300W rms more than he needs???

From a good sealed enclosure, if all he wants is to add some nice low end to his music, I'd say 150W would be good enough.

Since he only has a $500 budget, and needs a head unit, sub (+ enclosure), and an amp, the way i'd go about it is get a good head unit, and based on the remaining budget fit in a sub+sealed enclosure+amp rated at 150rms.

Don't forget you'll also need to take into account wires   and if you're not doing it yourself, installation costs.

Usually how loud do you like your music MrHunter?

Watts rms do not tell you how loud something will go. What it will help to do is provide for the lack of better words, more definition at lower volume levels, moderate volume levels and in this case a 3 db gain in output levels over what you listed as 150w rms. Thus, while I may contradict myselfhere in someways, yes it will play louder. Here in Canada is what I would do for $500.00 Canadian. (much less for you yanks).

Lightning Strike S3.10.4 - $100.00

Lightning Bolt B2.300.2 - $220.00

Prefab box (ewwww)      - $80.00

Install time                         - $60.00

Wire allowance                 - $40.00

Adds up to $500.00 Canadian. While the amp may be fugly yellow in color it is a good performer. I would probably change the amp and my investment a little bit and use a different amp but for the sake of pricepoint this is what I chose. I would also prefer a custom built box. Wire kits can be bought for who knows what price of the week can be found and must be of a size to match the amp. SO for his $500.00 US investment, what I chose would certainly do what hee needs and allow him the luxury of doing an upgrade to a different amp and custom built box and probably still hit his target of $500.00 US. I noticed on his original post that he wanted a sub and amp combination, this is what I quoted on.

I am buying the head unit seperately so the 500 budget is for the sub/amp/wires/box combo. I can do the install myself.

I like to listen to my music pretty looud sometimes. Just all depends. When I want it to scream I want to be able to have that option.

Is the 500 budget not enough? If I need to I can up it a little. I want to make sure I get good quality stuff that is going to perform. I dont want to be dissapointed.

The larger you go on a sub, the larger the amp, the larger the box is a good general rule of thumb. If you only have the stock infinity system, you do not want to have bass overkill. You may want to consider two of the subs, in the 8 ohm version and the Strike amp, model # S2.600.2. Two subs tend to smooth out the bass response. It takes the strain off of the one sub to hit all the lows and give good loud volumes as well. Two subs also are going to play louder and deeper. More power will also allow it to play louder, you could also go the route of dual 12" for louder and deeper yet. There is really no end to it. If you purchae locally from a good shop, make a deal with them to change the amp if you need more power or to add a second sub if it is not quite enough. This is where the local dealer will be able to help you more than any other.

djMINIoompa wrote:

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First, i would like to say that Robs sarcasim and harsh advice is awesome.

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I'm going to add this to my list of memorable quotes...

With two subs there is also an effect known as mutual coupling, another reason as to why people place subs in close proximity to each other. Not only does it play louder, but two drivers working together have a different effect on response. You are correct with the assumption that they can both play the same deep frequencies, however two drivers playing the same frequencies are now reinforcing each other for the full range of frequencies being played. Two drivers operating at the same frequency no doubt have more output and hence will play (lack of proper words) the same low frequencies, they will just be played with more authority, thus the perception of deeper bass. I should have written that a little different, sorry for the confusion.

I am still fairly new to this forum but I'm going to put in my 2 cents.  I wanted the same thing you did, nice clean and crisp sound with hard hitting tight bass when you want it.  I also am on a budget like most of us and also don't want to rattle the body off the frames of most cars around me, including mine.  I choose the Infinity Perfect 10.1 sub and the Blaupunkt PA2100 amp.  The sub can handle 350 wrms and the Blaupunkt amp can produce 300 wrms bridged.  The amp is pretty compact and does not get as hot as the older designs.  If you choose this sub make sure you purchase the Perfect 10.1.  Infinity makes several different versions of the 10" sub but only a few that can handle 350 wrms.   

I will probably catch some flak from some of the guys on this forum for recommending the Blaupunkt but from my experience it worked very well.  Good luck.   

Thanks to Stevdart and Forbidden for not taking me out.  Mrhunter it sounds to me like these guys really know what they're talking about, its good stuff man!  If I may be so bold as to contribute again.  I use two of the Perfect 10.1's in a sealed enclosure providing 1.0 cubit ft for each sub chamber.  Those bad boys hit just the way I anticipated, hard, clean and tight.  They can get down there for the real low bass guitar or handle the abuse from someguy banging away at the drums.  They are sweet!  Again, I am a novice and obviously pumped about these Infinity subs. 

Cheers

Your choice of sub will definitely affect the type of enclosure. Sort of a what came first the chicken of the egg question. One way to go about this choice is to determine how much real estate you want to give up in the trunk. I'm hoping that you know how to calculate cubic inches of airspace. Measure out you l x w x h in inches for the largest amount of space you want to give up and at the same time imagine that space as a cardboard box. Can you get the box into the trunk? Many a person has built a box only to not have it fit into the trunk opening. A great waste of time but you built a nice box. Here is the basic math for you.

l x w x h = cubic inches = cubic foot

12 x 12 x 12 = 1728 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot

3456 cu.in. = 2 cu.ft.

Post up the area that you have and maybe we can go backwards at this and choose the box and sub for the airspace.