I have heard that you can read the amp's output voltage at the terminals with a multimeter, then use Ohm's Law P = E squared / R to find the RMS. I finally bought a Sears Craftsman DMM (after years of wanting a new one), and made this test today. While playing a music CD, the readings were erratic on the meter. But I have a test tone CD, so then I used it. First, this is what I'm working with:
The system is a Ford factory head unit, 2001 Taurus, using 2 (high-quality) LOC's to connect to a Profile CL 4 channel amp. Amp is rated at 50W RMS X 4 @4 ohms; 4 @75 W RMS @2 ohms;150W bridged RMS X 2 @4 ohms. There are 4 Pioneer coaxials for the front/rear, paralleled to the amp channels 1 and 2, at 2 ohms stereo.
The single sub is bridged at 4 ohms to channels 3 and 4. A CD changer is installed. I grabbed the speaker leads for the LOC's at the tuner, which is mounted in the trunk. The amp gains are set properly to the head unit output.
I played a track from the test CD with a tone of about 35 Hz, with the head unit volume to the max position that I know I can go (just on the verge of clipping), at just over half on the dial. I read the AC volts on the bridged channels at 29.9 volts. The number didn't waiver, it stayed a steady reading. Applying that to Ohm's Law, I get 223 Watts.
The channels 1 and 2 each showed readings of 13.7 volts, playing a track at 200 Hz. That amounts to 93.8 Watts for each of those channels. Again I got a steady reading. On each test, if I turned the volume down, the volts would decrease. So these numbers are at full power.
These numbers exceed the manufacturer's RMS rating of the amp: 223 instead of 150; and 93 instead of 75. Question: am I getting an RMS value with the DMM testing this way? Am I getting more voltage with the factory head, and is that added to the results I am getting from the amp?
Your theory is correct, but your application is slightly flawed. The nominal impedance rating of a drivers is not always accurate. Usually it is a percentage above the DCR, but many companies actually rate it at the DCR. But when a speaker is playing, the impedance of the driver changes with frequency. You would have to know what the impedance is at a certain frequency, then measure the voltage at the frequency to figure out how much power your amp is producing.
Steven Kephart
Adire Audio
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I appreciate your input. I have about 60 frequencies recorded on the CD. I should get a reading on most or all and take an average. I wanted to get a feeling for the ratings honesty of the amp.
On second thought, I think that wouldn't tell me anything. I would still get the same voltage reading. I have to know what the ohm resistance is for each frequency. So, if I know what the ohms are for just one freq, and test it at that, I use that number for R in the formula? Do speaker manufacturers give out that data? The sub is Cerwin-Vega HED 12SVC. The spec sheet shows a value for "Revc" at 3.6 ohms.
To get it "right" requires more tools than just a meter. Again I'll refer to one of the best web sites for such information:
https://www.bcae1.com/measpwr.htm-------------
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