power problem

ok guys need some advice. I have a 2000 cavalier and this is what I have in it: 1200wt JBL amp, 400wt Crossfire amp, Air ride compressor drawing 17amps, PS2, power converter, and a 7" screen for the PS2 (obviously) now this is my issue every thing runs and works except my monitor. I shouldn't say that when I'm parked (car running at idle) watching a movie or whatever the screen works good for about 5 min then it gets a bunch of lines and goes blank; untill I put my foot on the accelerator and raise the RPMs then it pops back on clear as a bell. Now obviously a power problem. Now I do have an optima yellow top up front, no second battery, and had my alternator rebuilt from 120 amps to 180amps. I imediatly thought I just need to put in a 2nd battery, but then by friend pulls up in the exact same car with a $30 wallmart battery and factory 120amp alt. and he's running 2 Crossfire 2000D amps and a 23amp air ride compressor. A HELL OF ALOT MORE DRAW THAN WHAT I HAVE. And he has no problem at all. So I'm a bit confused on what to do. Like I said my monitor is the only thing that malfunctions and thats drawing the least power I don't get it. Now when I got my car out of storage after sitting 6 months (I live in Wisconsin) the battery was dead but I just got a jump and let the alternator charge the battery I never trickle charged it and I know the alternator wont "fully" charge a battery it more or less charges to a point then maintains, could that be my problem, that I never had a fresh battery to start this show season with? Would it help to pull it and give it a full charge then see what happens? Cause with my boy have 4000wts knockin in his car on a cheap battery and doing fine me getting a 2nd doesn't sound right at all. Thanks for taking the time to read this and for any advice...

-------------
go custom or go home!!

c is for cookie and thats good enough for me.

That does seen kinda strange. What kinda monitor is it.

-------------
double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Funny that you decided to post this...

I have noticed problems with my system lately and I am thinking its the power that I am getting...

I am running a Brutus 1500D and a 220 Watt Alpine on an eclipse 5423

I decided to shut off my system for a little bit, let my car rev, and drive normally, and I turned it back on, for a faint 1-2 seconds, I can tell it REALLY hits, then its "softer" and not as loud.

I have a crappy small no-name battery from autozone, and I'm sure now that I am not getting the power I need.  Stock alternator (2001 Cavalier) , I also put a 2 Farad cap on (I got it for cheap enough)

So I am trying to figure out what do I need to do to help my problems out.

New battery? 2nd Battery? Alternator?

TTT for answers and greater justice!

-fin 

-------------
Serving the country, one coffee at a time.
USAF!

For both of you i would suggest that you check the integerity or just replace the battery. Maybe upgrade to a optima or stinger car deep cycle batteries. Your altenator almost always needs to be upgraded when you get a good sub amp in your car and i would suggest upgrading your alternator accordingly as it is the heart of your electrical system. And you see what happens to the persons hearts that can't keep up with the needs of their body. (trust me it isn't good, if you havent seen this yet)

-------------
Quad L Handyman services

ketel22, thanks for the input but I do have an optima and an upgraded alternator, thats why I'm a little confused....

-------------
go custom or go home!!

I agree with Ketel22, you both have problems with your battery or alternator or both.  hbk00, you say you had your alternator rebuilt, but are you sure it is putting out what it is supposed to?  Get it tested.  Also, you talked about your battery being dead and you did not charge it, but made the alternator do the work.  I suspect your battery has a problem and is not fully charging - if it sat all winter discharged it could also have a bad plate.  Take it in to any auto parts store and get it tested.

Always fully charge a battery with a good quality trickle charger (overnight if possible) if it has gone dead, and if it won't hold a full charge your only option is to replace it.  Brand doesn't matter if the battery is dead, as all lead-acid batteries work the same way and they all need to be fully charged before you start placing demands on your system.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

hbk00, have the guy you had rebuild you alternator confirm it is working correctly. Sounds to me like the new voltage regulator (at least I *hope* he replaced the voltage regulator) is stuck or, in some other way, defective. My alternator (a 165A for my '01 Civic), from www.4alterstart.com will put out over 80 amps at idle, and I know it continues to do so, because I have an ammeter in my dash. I suggest EVRYBODY that puts in a high current alternator use ammeter, just to keep an eye on things. It is also possible that your yellow top optima MAY have been "new, old stock", and set for a while without being charged. A 2 amp trickle charger, placed on the battery for 24-48 UNBROKEN hours, may deep charge the battery enough to recondition the plates, and return more listening time. If you have a voltmeter, monitor the voltage at the terminals of the battery, and when you monitor turns off, check the voltage, and if you rev the engine to turn it back on, watch the volt meter, and if it goes up, there is a problem in your alternator, most likely the voltage regulator is either bad or misadjusted. (most likely bad, as it is solid state, and cannot be adjusted)

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

thanks for the input guys I'll go have things tested and post the conclusion on it all for future reference for anyone. DYohn, granted battery work the same but optima yellow top isnt an acid battery, but I do understand where you're comming from. thanks

-------------
go custom or go home!!

Actually, the optima is STILL a lead acid battery... they are ALL lead acid batteries! It is in the construction of the optima batteries that allows you to use it in any position. The electolyte (acid) is held captive in a fiber barrier., then wound up in a spiral.

-------------
It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Optima Yellow Top is a lead-acid battery.  It's just designed for deep cycles and larger capacity than a standard parallel plate battery.

-------------
Support the12volt.com

Disconnect the amplifiers as well, this will decrease the current draw on the charging system, what happens to the monitor when this is done?

-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Sorry bout that concerning the yellow top, guess it shows you how knowledgable I am didn't mean to affend anyone. But anyway I got my Alternator tested and battery today, both are fine however the voltage from the alternator to the battery read 12.1 at idle (600 rpms), and 14.8 at 1000rps (give or take). I thought at idle it should still clear 14 maybe I'm wrong there as well, the shop that rebuilt my alternator said that with high output alternators they wont start working for you until the rpms are up. What do you guys think about that? Truth or BS? I then asked what I could do to solve my "idle" power problem they all looked at me like deer starring into headlights and nothing solid to say. So after testing I'm still stuck with my problem, any other thoughts guys?
Thanks a lot again!!

-------------
go custom or go home!!