amp for single dvc sub

your sub is a 300 watt jvc daul 4 ohm voice coil. find a amp that pushes from 150-300 watts and runs at 4 ohms bridged. that way you can get the most of your sub without blowing it

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yup

Actually, you are going to need an amp that is one ohm stable, IF you want to bridge it. (the woofer, when the voice coils are paralleled, present a two ohm load, and then the amp, when bridged, "sees" twice that load or half the impedance per channel) Personally, I would recommend not wasting your money, buy an amp that is around 150wpc at 4 ohms, run the amp in stereo, and run one voice coil from each channel. Contrary to popular opinion, there will be NO damage done by doing this, the amp will have better control over the cone due to the improved damping factor, the amp will run cooler, and last longer. People, STOP recommending that people buy these low impedance capable amps. Just because they can do it, that does not mean the can do it better than another amp that may be less expensive, because it was not built to run a half ohm load! Low impedance is NOT YOR FRIEND! It is your WORST ENEMY, especially in the car where you are looking for as much efficiency as you can lay your hands on! You do not have a virtually unlimited power supply in the car like you do in the home!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Actually you need an amp that it rated at 2 ohm mono stable. I know all the rules about how the amp sees half of the load and what not but amps are rated to take this into consideration. For example any amp that rates itself at 2 ohm mono stable, it will be able to handle a dual 4 ohm voice coil wired in parralell and bridged. Its just the way it goes. You could look for a MTX 311D amp, that would work awsome for you. You could also look at a jbl300.1, both of which would meet your needs.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Yes, that is true, but any amp that is rated 2 ohm mono stable will also be rated 1 ohm stereo stable... It is the same rating, just different words! I think that's what I said, just not in so many words. If you see an amp that states 1 ohm stereo stable, it will also be 2 ohm bridged stable, and then you will be able to bridge it into a 2 ohm load (two 4 ohm voice coils, paralleled).

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

haem,  i have heard so many people say not to hook each channel to each voice coil, but you say there will be no harm? i am not criticizing you just making sure you said what you wanted. so a 2 channel amp with 150 watts/channel would work? one channel to each coil. then it is just straight up 4 ohm load on amp. then the gains have to be exactly the same on both channels correct? thanks.....would there be any difference sound wise whether i go with a mono amp that can handle it versus a 2 channel in 4 ohm?

This is a great thing to do, the amp will always run much more efficient in all cases. The amp will also have much better control of the motion of the driver. Most amplifiers have only one gain control and work both channels equally. Ravendarat and haemphyst both have good solid suggestions for you. Even though they are talking about two different types of amps, they are still one of the same and will accomplish the same thing.  If I had room in my little car for a big 2 channel amp to run my subs, it would have already been in there. Sometimes the choice of the mono amp or 2 channel amp is dictated by how much real estate is available to mount it in.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

No criticism taken, and yes there will be NO harm done. Rob already got to the answer I was gonna say about the gain, but even IF you had separate gain controls, any channel level mismatch would impact your maximum output insignificantly, unless one channel was all the way up, the other, all the way down... but you'd never do that right?

As far as audible "differences" go, not much... your amp will run cooler, and last longer, and will not need as much current from the electrical system. Damping factor will be four times what it would be if you bridged into 2 ohms, and this can be a significant amount, especially if you are thinking about any type of vented enclosure.

Yes, a stereo amp rated 150 to 200 watts per channel at 4 ohms will suffice nicely... Have FUN!

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

as far as gains, uh, unless you bought it from wall-mart the amp gain is for both channels.

JBL 300.1 (300W RMS @ 2-ohms)...Wire ur sub in parallel, perfect.

Or try an MTX 421D (300W RMS @ 2-ohms).

Basically get a Class D monoblock amp that is is around the rms wattage u need for ur sub...it will be 2-ohm stable if it's a mono amp.

It's interesting seeing suggestions like those above recommending driving a DVC sub in stereo.  I always take Rob's opinion as gospel, and Haem's is harder to get through, but I do my best to understand his ideas, too.  :)  But, I have to say, with subwoofer frequencies, I can't understand spending the extra money, and drawing the extra power from the car electrical system to run a DVC sub in stereo.  With the availabilty of class D amps now, and the low prices you can get them for.  You will draw about 40% less power running a mono amp, and spend half as much, as you will for a stereo amp rated at 150 to 200 watts per channel.  With frequencies at about 120 Hz and lower, you should not hear a difference.  I have a little USacoustics mono amp, the USB600D, that would run that sub nicely.  I got it for $120 from Crutchfield's, although they are out of them.  But you should still be able to get one for less than $180.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.