Car Audio for BMW
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=35154
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 11:46 AM
Topic: Car Audio for BMW
Posted By: 94legend
Subject: Car Audio for BMW
Date Posted: July 06, 2004 at 7:47 PM
A Friend of Mine has a BMW 3-series, We plan on installing a pair of subs in the trunk. Anyone know how to start?
Our Equipment consist of
(2) 12" Fosgate Subs
(1) 801s Fosgate amp
(1) 1.0 Farad Capacitor
(1) 8 guage amp kit with agu 60 amp fuse
(2) Fosgate Battery Terminals
(1) 2ft 4 guage wire
(1) 2ft 4 gauge ground wire
Stock Headunit
stock interior speakers/tweeters
Anything else we need?
Wats the first step?
Replies:
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 06, 2004 at 7:51 PM
Sorry for sayint this but, we really dont know what we are doing with the equipment. We just bought what the sales rep told us to get. Sorry... =(
So we could sure use some help towards installing the amp to the subs to the box to the capcitor etc.. Thanks alot
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: July 06, 2004 at 9:04 PM
First, read this installation primer, and follow up with this series from Crutchfield. If you get into a jam installing the system, ask here. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 1:46 PM
The Battery seems to be located in the trunk.
Switched out the old battery terminal and inserted the fosgate terminal.
Ran, the + 4 guage wire from the battery terminal to distro block
from distroblock ran the + 8 guage straight to amp
amp has a second + terminal. From that second + terminal ran + 8 guage to the capacitor
Ran the - 4 guage wire from the battery terminal straight to the - amp terminal
amp has second - terminal. From that second - terminal ran the + 4 gauge ground into capictor.
Thats all i did. LOL and the there is no power in the amp. Still working on it. What else are we missing or not doing right?
When i work on REMOTE wire i'll let you guys know. Cuz its going to be very difficult. Thanks!
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 1:48 PM
[QUOTE]
amp has second - terminal. From that second - terminal ran the + 4 gauge ground into capictor.
[/QUOTE]
Sorry i miss typed that :
amp has second - terminal. From that second - terminal ran the - 4 gauge ground into capictor.
its a digital Fosgate Capictor is 1.0 FARAD good with it?
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 1:53 PM
94legend wrote:
[QUOTE]
amp has second - terminal. From that second - terminal ran the + 4 gauge ground into capictor.
Sorry i miss typed that : amp has second - terminal. From that second - terminal ran the - 4 gauge ground into capictor. its a digital Fosgate Capictor is 1.0 FARAD good with it? [/QUOTE]
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: July 08, 2004 at 1:56 PM
First, ground the amp to chassis. Then, ground the cap to chassis. Run power to fuse holder (12" from battery), then to cap. From cap, power goes to distro, then to amp. Amp won't turn on until REM wire is connected to a 12 volt source. Make sure grounds are complete and wiring is good before putting the fuse into the holder. Make sure the car battery is disconnected at all times when you are working with wiring. The battery is the last connection to be made after all other wiring connections are secure. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 9:03 PM
stevdart wrote:
First, ground the amp to chassis. Then, ground the cap to chassis. Run power to fuse holder (12" from battery), then to cap. From cap, power goes to distro, then to amp. Amp won't turn on until REM wire is connected to a 12 volt source. Make sure grounds are complete and wiring is good before putting the fuse into the holder. Make sure the car battery is disconnected at all times when you are working with wiring. The battery is the last connection to be made after all other wiring connections are secure.
Ok, We re-did the wiring and went' over it to make sure its a clean hit and strong connection this is what we did!
Ran the 8 guage ground wire from the amp to the chasis ( San'd the area for about 15 mins)
Then we took the 4 guage ground wire and ran it from the same spot chasis to the cap (the chasis area is about 3 in. x 3 in. (very wide just in case) lol
then we Ran the 4 guage power wire from battery to an 80 amp AGU fuse with fuse holder
From fuse holder we rean the 4 guage power wire to the cap. From cap we ran it into a DUAL distrobution block with 60 amp agu fuse (although there are 2 slots, we connected only 1)
From the distroblock, we took the 8 guage power and ran it to the amp.
We are still in the garage wiring it up and going over the wires.
We are planing on using zip lock wires to keep the wires tight together. and using black tape to stick it to the trunk panels to insure the wire is not runing, rolling around and it's secure and tight. Even though we are not done. We know theres going to be a problem already. The REM WIRe! So many beautiful harness wires with bright nice colors. which ones which?
The dealer just installed a crappy radio in the car yesterday. I'll come back with the brand. But were not sure about which harness wire is the remote one. lol
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 9:07 PM
Was there any mistakes in doing what we did . We are trying to perfect the installation. Thanks for your guidence!
Posted By: lensam69
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 9:38 PM
Well, if you want to test your amp without connecting it to the head unit's remote start wire, you can connect a small wire from the + terminal in the amp to the Remote start terminal... But, don't leave it in that position, because the amp won't turn off.
-------------
forbidden wrote:
Wrong advice young grasshopper, go back to square one and do not pass go.
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: July 09, 2004 at 10:33 PM
It looks like you are doing a good job with it. The wiring sounds right. I am a fuse person, and I think the REM wire needs a fuse, too, because it will be connected to a voltage source. I use a small inline fuse holder (49 cents) with a 500ml amp (1/2 amp) fuse in the remote wire. Like this and this. So I suggest fusing the wire before powering up. But, the deck should have a blue or blue/white wire to connect to the remote wire. It is a switched 12 volt source, on when the deck is on, turns the amp off when the deck is turned off. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 2:24 AM
Everything seems to be right. We went out and bought the inline fuse holder along with the fuse that you ahve suggested. We attached that about 1 ft away from the amp. We did this incase if the fuse was blown it would be easy to check instead of pulling out the deck. then we ran the rem wire to front of car and did not connect it yet.
Our next step is to run a second pair of wires for a secon amp which will power the reare speakers only.
Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 12, 2004 at 1:22 PM
We Have decided to cancel that installation. ANd just keep what we have. Thanks for your support. When the entire installation has been complete. I'll post you guys up on how it sounds! thanks again!
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