i got an SPL 1200 W series 2 amp on 2 Visonik 1065S4's... when i bridge the amp to the subs....when the music hits a really deep or really long base line,,, the amp will cut out and the subs excursion will go like in slow motion..... i got a stock alt. and no cap...and the little LED and the end of the AMP would go from green to red and then back to green when it starts to play normal....it usually happens when the volume on the deck is above 25 .. whats the deal? when i unbridge it and run each channels it doesnt happen but obviously it doesnt hit as hard as i want it to...them subs are nasty and have potential to sound insane....also...(01 Dodge Ram Reg Cab) the subs hit harder and sound better when i have my windows all the way down......like extremely noticable...whats the deal? thanks for the help
if they are bridged your probably running a 2 ohm load and your amp isnt 2 ohm stable, your gonna have to get a better amp or deal with not bridging them,
they are SVC subs and the amp is 2 ohm stable ... im assuming that the speakers are 4 ohm
Is your amplifier mono or stereo?
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Support the12volt.com2 ohm stable stereo....... but 1 X 600 Watts RMS Mono and can you explain the difference?
OK, if it is "2-ohm stereo stable" then that means it requires a minimum of 2-ohms PER CHANNEL. That means when you bridge it (connecting both channels togehter) it must have at least a 4-ohm load. If you have two 4-ohm SVC woofers connected in parallel, you are overloading the amp as this results in a 2-ohm load. What you have to do is wire the speakers in SERIES for a total 8-ohm load and connect that to the bridged amp. This is the only way your gear will be stable. (Or, connect each speaker to its own channel, which results in the same load on the amp and the same output as 8-ohms bridged.) If your amp is rated at 600 watts X 1 into 4-ohms, it will produce 300 watts into 8-ohms. Cheers.
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