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Review my to be setup

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=36218
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 8:58 PM


Topic: Review my to be setup

Posted By: DaRealace
Subject: Review my to be setup
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 4:36 PM

Deck: Pioneer DEH-3600

Door Speakers: 4 x Alpine SPR-174A Type R 6.5"

Speaker Amp: Alpine MRP-F240 4ch

Sub: 2 x Alpine SWR-1221D

Sub Amp: Alpine MRD-M500

Would you replace anything in this setup with a different part? I'm not an alpine fan-boy I've just heard good things about them so I am willing to venture to other brands. I also am looking for a good sub enclosure for the 2 12" subs so If anyone has a link to a good site for sub enclosures please share.



Thanks



Replies:

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 5:31 PM
DaRealace wrote:

I'm not an alpine fan-boy I've just heard good things about them so I am willing to venture to other brands.


You really need to go listen to anything you are going to buy in person. I mean I have heard good things about Kia but I will never own one.

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Posted By: DaRealace
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 5:33 PM
Well I have listened to the 6.5" and they sounded very nice but I have no where to listen to the Type-R Subs.. so I am going on by there reputation. Also I have no where to listen how the 2 amps perform. So... that is why I am asking other people if they have used these products and would they reccomend them or... not.




Posted By: Leif
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 5:44 PM
It's not that simple, they will never sound the same in a car as in a show room. Ideally you'd want to hear them *installed in your car*, but that's never possible until you're done.

Remember, car audio is 30% parts and 70% installation (or is that 10/90%?).. So, you will do fine with those parts, as long as they're installed right.

The biggest glaring problem is putting speakers in the doors. Yes, it will work, but I have NEVER heard good imaging from door speakers. Getting good imaging usually requires kickpods. However, you can always start by putting them in the doors - you will not have wasted any money on parts, because you can reuse everything if you choose to have pods made later.

The one thing I recommend (and I know there are at least two people here who will disagree with me) is to bridge the MRP-240 into the front speakers, and run the rear speakers off the head unit directly. 2x40w really isn't enough for front speakers, but 2x100w is. The 2x25w you will get from the head unit is plenty for the rear speakers, as long as you have them turned down low enough not to distort (i.e. clip the head unit's output amp).


Which car are you putting this in?

If you happen to have a 4th generation F-Body (camaro or firebird), I happen to have a custom enclosure WITH two of the exact subs you specify, laying around! (came out of my 2001 trans am when I sold it). Fits snugly into the well where the t-tops usually go. Fat chance that you'd have that exact car, but I figured it's worth a shot!

I also have an Alpine MRV-1507 (1x1000w) and an MRV-F407 (2x144w or 4x50w) that came out of that same car.

///Leif




Posted By: Leif
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 5:45 PM
Perhaps should have mentioned - I do like the sound of the Type-R subs. Very warm and smooth, and they punch hard :).

///Leif




Posted By: DaRealace
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 8:18 PM
Sorry, it happens to be a 97 Pathfinder. But are you willing to sell the subs by themselves?




Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 8:23 PM

You really need to go listen to anything you are going to buy in person. I mean I have heard good things about Kia but I will never own one.
It's not that simple, they will never sound the same in a car as in a show room. Ideally you'd want to hear them *installed in your car*, but that's never possible until you're done.

Remember, car audio is 30% parts and 70% installation (or is that 10/90%?).. So, you will do fine with those parts, as long as they're installed right.

The biggest glaring problem is putting speakers in the doors. Yes, it will work, but I have NEVER heard good imaging from door speakers. Getting good imaging usually requires kickpods. However, you can always start by putting them in the doors - you will not have wasted any money on parts, because you can reuse everything if you choose to have pods made later.

The one thing I recommend (and I know there are at least two people here who will disagree with me) is to bridge the MRP-240 into the front speakers, and run the rear speakers off the head unit directly. 2x40w really isn't enough for front speakers, but 2x100w is. The 2x25w you will get from the head unit is plenty for the rear speakers, as long as you have them turned down low enough not to distort (i.e. clip the head unit's output amp).

Perhaps should have mentioned - I do like the sound of the Type-R subs. Very warm and smooth, and they punch hard :).

Which car are you putting this in?

If you happen to have a 4th generation F-Body (camaro or firebird), I happen to have a custom enclosure WITH two of the exact subs you specify, laying around! (came out of my 2001 trans am when I sold it). Fits snugly into the well where the t-tops usually go. Fat chance that you'd have that exact car, but I figured it's worth a shot!

I also have an Alpine MRV-1507 (1x1000w) and an MRV-F407 (2x144w or 4x50w) that came out of that same car.

To make the "Lord of the Rings" story short
Go with it and if you like it keep it. If you don't then look around for another audio piece then will talk, will compare and contrast. fo sho? posted_image





Posted By: Leif
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 9:06 PM
Uhh.. Did something go wrong with your post there 94legend? The things you said had sort of been said already :)

///Leif




Posted By: 94legend
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 9:13 PM

I noticed that, I'm just doing what you are doing, rephrasing it, and adding an opinion. If you look at the bottom what i wrote OGL Pro.

Thanks! ^_^





Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 9:25 PM

ouu 97 pathfinder, , good choice!!, ,be shure to run new speaker wire directly to the speakers if you have the patience.   There is a factory amp in the pathfinders, , you want to bypass it completely.   If you don't want to run new wire, , atleast bypass the amp at the amp.  I can help you with that, , i have a factory service manual that tells me all, , just tell me the factory system you have and i can set you up.

1 more thing, , invest in some sound deadening for that back hatch, ,there is latches inside it that rattle alot, , and annoy the heck outa me.

1 Change i would make with your set up would be, to get the components up front, , and just coaxials in the rear, , its slightly a bit of a waste of money to put components behind you where you really don't want to hear them that much.

Good luck!



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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: DaRealace
Date Posted: July 26, 2004 at 11:40 PM
Alpine Guy,

I have a 1997 Pathfinder LE edition, tell me if you need any more information. Anyways your suggesting setting up component speakers up front and setting up the 6.5" coaxial in the back, is this correct? Do you think I should cover the back panel with some dynamat to kill the rattle? Were you able to replace the stock tweeters in your pathfinder? I look and couldn't see a way to get the cover off. Please share what you did with your pathfinder maybe we can compare notes... etc.




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: July 27, 2004 at 10:11 PM

You have to remove the whole panel that the tweeter grill is attached too, , it goes from dash to ceiling, , its just held there by clips.

You definately should get components up front, you will be WAYYY happyer, , im shure everyone here will agree.

Im guessing you have the blows (bose) system?  if so, , then you definately need to run all new wires.

Try the subs out first, ,then if stuff starts to rattle, take off the panel to see whats rattleing, see if you can dampen it somehow, ,or just cover it with deadening, , dynamat is not needed, , its too expensive, , brown bread is a cheeper/equivalent substitute..



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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: ice4life8269
Date Posted: July 28, 2004 at 7:53 AM
the pioneer puts out 50x4, and you can get that much power by running a larger power wire to it, i think briging the amp is a good idea for the front, and the only thin i would change is the subs. try the 1241 instead, i think they sound better, but its entirly up to you. and deffinatly don't use dynacrap. over priced and over rated. use brown bread or fatmat. you just need to experiment with what you like, and set it up how you want it.




Posted By: mobile E
Date Posted: July 28, 2004 at 1:19 PM

[/QUOTE]
You really need to go listen to anything you are going to buy in person. I mean I have heard good things about Kia but I will never own one.[/QUOTE]

AMEN, but seriously i really like alpine stuff, but there is ALL kinds of stuff out there that may sound better to you.

matt



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everything stolen :(
Workin on a new system :)
posted_image
Peace in the middle east




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: July 28, 2004 at 8:26 PM

"ice4life8269"  There is no sound dirrerence between the 1221 or the 1241, , the only difference is resistance on the voice coil so you will have wireing options to squeeze the most out of your amps.   There the exact same subs, just 1 has 2 ,2 ohm voice coils, and 1 has 2, 4 ohm voice coils.

Read up in the "basics" section to your left of the screen on ohms law, and resistance, and such, it will help you understand more clearly.



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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: ice4life8269
Date Posted: July 29, 2004 at 6:34 AM

my bad. with lower resistance in the coil doesn't the amp get hotter? and isn't a cool amp a happy amp? The heat affects the sound quality, and thats why i said that. if i am wrong, thanks for letting me know, but you should use a little tact before you jump down someones throat. If you read what i wrote, you can see that i said that's what i'd do, and it is up to him.

alpine guy, sorry if i was wrong....posted_image



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Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: July 29, 2004 at 7:48 PM
Sorry if i sounded like i was jumpin down your throught, , i tryed to word that as nicely as possible, , i meant to help inform you, , not shoot you down.   Your true that lower resistance will draw more from an amp, , but you see, ,every amp is different, , some are stable at 1 ohm, 2 ohm, or 4 ohm, , , , , , companys make dual voice coil subs so you can easily change up the wireing on your subs to suit the specific needs of your amp.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.





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