info about the fuse from this kit
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=36606
Printed Date: May 13, 2025 at 5:32 AM
Topic: info about the fuse from this kit
Posted By: /R7
Subject: info about the fuse from this kit
Date Posted: August 02, 2004 at 5:01 AM
the past day or 2 i've been setting my car up to run my Soundstream 800TR/5. i went to a shop to buy a wiring kit, and they set me up with a stinger 4awg kit. now i probably could have gone with a cheap no name brand had i payed attention to this thread. but i got it now so w/e not taking it back. included was a 150amp fuse. when i asked the previous owner of this amp what kind of fuse this amp has on it, he said he'd never checked before, so that finally leads me to my question.
if, hypethically speaking, the amp has a 60amp fuse, would the 150amp fuse be effective in stopping surges before my amp gets affected? or would it passthrough and trip the amp's first.
and secondly, i drive a buick lesabre 91. and my dads been warnin me against the installation of this amp into the car cus he doesnt want the computer to fry down the road, cus if the computer goes he says noone will fix that sort of thing for cheap and parts wont be cheap for it period.
so should i be concerned of this, and can i prevent this from happening to the computer? i figured a fuse on the main line to the car before it goes to anything, but if the starter of the car uses alotta amps in the winter to turn over. it could trip the fuse prematurely just to start the engine. so im at a loss of ideas, on this, maybe its unnessesary, but if anyone can fill in the gaps or ease my mind it would make installing this much less stressful lol.
Thanks in advance for any help
Replies:
Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: August 02, 2004 at 10:34 AM
The 150 amp fuse is to protect the wire, not the amp. The fuse in the amp is to protect the amp. An amp will not fry your computer in your car. Don't put a fuse on the main line from the alternator it is not needed. I'd consider replacing the 150 amp fuse in the mainline with an 80 amp fuse though. -------------
Posted By: tylertime
Date Posted: August 02, 2004 at 1:47 PM
the 150 amp fuse is to protect you from a fire if there is a short betwen the battery and anywhere on that 4 guage wire there should be zero worrying about the cars computer!!, simply make sure that your battery connection is tight and secure!! but that was obvious do not fuse the main line from your battery... it is not nessesary just make sure to do a clean installation of the amp kit, don't short any wires together and everything will be fine!! one last thing, make sure that the ground you use for the amp is a good one, clean off any paint from the area you intend to use, because if anything really causes problems when installing an amp its the ground. just make sure of that and it should be cool!
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 12:02 AM
thanks for the info guys, i took so long to reply cus i've spent the last 12hrs somewhere around my car routing wire somewhere or removing panels for the umpteenth time.
my friend and i, wired the power to the amp, and had the amp grounded to the body of the trunk, but because my dad was as concerned as he was, he suggested i find another wire to route back to the engine block instead of the body. he used to work on cars, but was no wiz in the audio end of it, he was a general mechanic, hence he was concerned about a 4awg wire with a 150amp fuse on it, souly for an amp.
anyways, so i took the ground off the body, and he came back later in the evening with a smaller gauge (all he could found was a 8-10gauge wire (not brand new, but the wires were in good condition. from there i routed it from the engine block through the firewall and the rest of the slack is sitting in my glovebox, the rest of the work will be tomorrow when i have some sunlight -_-.
now, he wanted me to do this because, he figures if the amp was to short, the ground from the battery, to the body would be so small that before the 4awg cable fuse blew, the wire would melt and continue on into the electronics.
now its my first install, and the way he explained it, it would be more logical to ground to the engine block, than the trunk body.
i may not be making total sense but im very tired right now and would just like to finish up searching for how many amps my amp does draw, and then head for bed ;p
but in closing, if anyone can contradict me and tell me grounding back to the engine is not nessesary, and explain to me why it isnt, or point me in the direction of a post, or an installation guide that goes over it with a detailed explination, that'd be most helpful.
i know im new and it is my first install, but i want to doit right, learn, and continue to have fun installing :-), part of that means not screwing something up in the first place setting me back quite a few 100$ ;p
Thanks again, and apologies for another long winded post.
PS. i will get a smaller fuse as you suggested custom', 150 did seem rediculously high, but as explained above, its not for the amp, its for the wire, makes sense now :-)
Posted By: carguy411
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 12:50 AM
first about your ground. itis better to keep the ground as close to the amp and as short because it keeps groundloops down to a min. second the ground should be the same gauge or lower than your power wire. so if u are using 4ga power then 4 ga ground sould be used or even a 2ga if u wanted to go crazy but using a 8-10 isnt so good and plus running it back to the hood is unneccessary and a waste of time
Posted By: chevyman26
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 1:19 AM
No No No No No No No You want to make your ground wire as short as possible. Most manufacturers reccomend 3 ft. or shorter, and if you ask any installer they will always lean towards shorter. Using a longer ground will give you a better chance of getting some ground loop noise. Also keep your power and signal wires as seperated as possible. And always use at least the same guage or larger wire than the power wire. If you (or your dad) are that concerned about needing to ground to the block (which is completely unneccesary as there is a ground strap running between them) you could add another ground strap or 4 ga. wire from the body to engine, but as I said - not needed. I have owned a 87 buick park ave. and a 94 buick regal, both of which had loud systems in them at one time or another, and never had any problems with the computer. There is no reason at all that an amplifier would harm one, unless you spliced directly into it's wire harness :0 lol. I would also like to add that, yes, computers are easy and cheap (comparitivly) to fix. Any decent salvage yard is usually littered with them, as there are a lot of early 90's lesabres out there. I'm not saying they're junk, just that there were millions of them made, and there are probably a couple of Olds and Ponitac models of computers that would work. ------------- You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."
Posted By: chevyman26
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 1:39 AM
Been thinking about it, and seriously - don't run the smaller guage wire back to the engine! I remember my brother wiring up a long small ground in a Monte and it melted in like, 5 min. and started the carpet on fire. He might of had something else wrong, I don't know but don't risk it. Make sure your ground is at least 4 ga. and 3 ft. or shorter. then there should be no problems.... ....well, ok. Maybe one. Once you figure out how many amps your amp will draw, then you need to figure out how many amps your alt. has to spare. I'm guessing you've got a 100 or 105 amp alt. figure that the car uses about 60% of this, which leaves you about 40 amps to spare for your amp (ampitty amp amp amp). If you've got a 60 amp fuse in your amp, then that's the absolut most that it will ever draw, so you'll probably be alright if you are able to keep the amp out of clipping so make sure you set the gain properly! If this is your first install, make sure that you understand the function of the gain control before you ever put a signal to the amp. I think I'm rambling now. Must be time for bed huh? ------------- You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 8:11 AM
thanks for the ramble chevy, i think i'll run the small wire into the back anyways, get it over with, but not to my amp, i'll remount the new 4gauge wire and get to where i was last night lol.
I understand now that the trunk has a ground-loop
i checked the tarantula PDF file, and i dont know if it includes my TR800/5 but they said it has a 300amp fuse in the PDF, so i dont know if it draws nere-around there or just able to handle that power
I ran into another stupid first install mistake, i didnt label my RCAs, which i've already routed to the front, is it a problem putting them into my HU and AMP without knowing which goes where. essentially im only going to be using one right now for my rears, which means i have a few different possibilities to go through in testing, i just dont want to cross a left RCA into a right and have a signal from my HU or AMP damage the other.
Anyways, gonna go see if i can stick that ground on before i head for work
Thankyou for your input guys its been most helpful
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 2:32 PM
Grrrr, you guys need to learn about how important a proper ground really is. Just because a manufacturer recommends less than 3' does not mean that it is a proper ground. Cheyman26, if your brother wired up a long small ground and it melted, then it is indicative of either a dead short in the amp or way too small of a wire used for the most important wire in a car audio system.
------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 2:56 PM
Dont run an 8 to 10 gauge wire from the amp all the way to the engine block. If you really think you need to run a ground up front, you ground it to the battery using at least the same gauge or larger wire (and its really not needed). Tell your dad that you will be more likely to fry your amp if you run a small wire like that from your amp to the engine block. Stick to using a short ground wire, that is the same size as your power wire, and ground it to the chassis of the vehicle (not the rear deck, or a seat belt bolt, or a seat bolt, ground to the chassis of the vehicle). And to sum it all up, 3 feet or less for a ground wire isn't a set length, your are just suposed to keep your ground wire resistance .5 ohms or less.
-------------
Posted By: tylertime
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 5:47 PM
if you run a 10 guage wire as the ground then that 4 guage wire is being wasted. also... your dad has nothing to worry about with the big 4 guage wire, its only there to supply electrons, it doesn't "pull" anything more than it needs whether its a 4 guage or a thin 18guage wire, the 150 amp fuse is fine, it only ensures that if there is a short somewhere that only the fuse blows and then no more current is being passed on from the battery....but on the same hand it is large enough to allow your amp to pull that much (which it wont) but it leave headroom for other amps or..god forbid you accidently touch your power and ground wires together... it won't blow quite as quickly as a 60 amp fuse...it will blow if there is a serious short but not on those moments when we wern't thinking (we've all done it). there ya go keep the wire and ground in the back with 4 guage!! its all good i've had gm vehicles before and actually have never heard of a problem due to the amp!! once my car didn't start though because i had the battery terminal going on/off/on/off/on/off while trying to make it screw in...waited a few minutes and the computer reset itself... wasn't a problem! good luck
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 8:24 PM
i think i had the same issue last night while trying to put the ground back to the bat, cus this mornin i had AC on me, and i never use the air in the car.
My dads argument is that the body isnt meant to handle that much power from the 4gauge wire, and if there isnt a good enough ground through the body, it will use the grounds of all the other electronics and so on and so forth, he doesnt believe the body will be sufficent, and thats his arugment. nonetheless- im going to try it with the 4guage to the body and call it a day, hopefully i prove him wrong, which im semi-confident i will.
but thanks guys, everyones said just use what i was given in the kit, which i'd like to, and i will once im done this post,
i think i can safely say this has been the most informational experiance i've been through in a long time, and all over something that could have been finished and enjoyed a night or even 2 ago.
i'll let you know what i think of my amp when its all hooked up
Peace
<3
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 8:39 PM
Since your Dad is a mechanic, he might enjoy reading some of this info on this site. This page covers the amp mounting and grounding. ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 10:38 PM
if he wasnt so stubborn i'd insist on him just reading it, but he really wouldnt take that too well, but who knows. maybe in our next debate. but anyways, more importantly.
i shrugged off my dads idvice, with some pretty hefty cohoonas' if you ask me... O_O... tried it as it was always intended apoun, and such, i got it working, after i figured the problem with the rca' mix up.
anyways, what is rad, is the complete difference in clarity, the sound that my rears are producing now is so unique from anything i've heard. and to have it working with my decks output, is complete ackwardness to the ears ;O, so i have been experimenting on different ways to have the 2 working, but once the fronts dominate i cant handle the rears, and i dont want to lose the quality of the rears over the fronts after hearing them. i will be working up a fuss trying to get my kicker fronts.
Oh and i havent even figured the best EQ settings, freq, gain, full/low/high pass's i have so much more to work with in sound to my ears, its most exciting. maybe that and i had a good long O-=======-OooO oo o puffer to myself ;-) and i love listening to tunes then more so.
ok i think im an audiophile-pervert, i'll shutup
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 10:51 PM
Look, I'm a dad, have a kid already graduated from college and another in his junior year. I learn a lot from my kids, but they may not know it. Show him the site and tell him it's some information that could be useful to you as you grow with this hobby, but tell him there are things in there that you just don't understand. (You wouldn't be lying.) Then leave him alone, and don't ask about it again. In a few days you just might see a renewed interest in all this out of him.
------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 03, 2004 at 11:07 PM
well put stev, i will some how subtely swing it by him, or leave it on his computer to see in his free time, after mentioning it to him.
It most likely will come up since i used the method provided in the kit. and im happy with it.
Now paranoid or not, im curious, if there are wires i can check to see if the wires are being affected or not?
if not no worries :-). anyways, cheers im off to bed, gonna be a weird day tomorrow
PEACE
Posted By: tylertime
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 1:04 PM
the body of your car is grounded.. it is used as a "common ground" it makes ZERO difference to electronic equipment if you have an amp grounded to it..this is because of that whole wire size thing. the sum of all the electronic components in the car (including your new amp) will not need more grounding to the battery than the stock GM cable provides. and the body of your car isn't he perfect carrier of electrons due to its atomical design, but thats rediculously intense theory!! its good enough and there is nothing to worry about, but now that you've experienced your first taste of car audio and installing, better have a good job, cuz its a nasty habit!!
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 1:25 PM
Actually dude the body of the car has everything to do with a proper ground. A proper ground will have a resistance of below 1/2 ohm. If when you sand down the metal and attach your ground wire and meter it and find that you have 23 ohms of resistance, well that good old body of the car ground return is not all that great. If the ground return resistance can be made to get below 1/2 ohm then sure it is a good ground location. The body of a car (primariliy GM's) is not a good ground return due to a combination of crappy metals, glued together unibody panels and real crappy weld seams or tack welds that hold seat belt nuts on. A bad ground will cause all sorts of problems for an amplifier, like excessive heat, poor output, noise, protection mode and ultimitely failure of the power supply if the amp is prone to this (like a Rockford). Thus again a proper ground will be checked and found to be below 1/2 ohm resistance, otherwise grounding to the battery may be the best bet. Most installers in the industry do not even check or have never been trained to check for this most important factor when grounding an amp. Do yourself a favour and get into the habit of always checking this reading. ------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: tylertime
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 1:45 PM
oh yea i realize that resistance will cause poor performance... i guess i wasn't thinking that there was a severe problem with this car he should OF COURSE check the resistance, my honda shows .1 ohms from the battery to the ground i have in my hatch...and i (personally) havn't had a resistance problem with the 3 GM vehicles i've owned... but it should always be checked!!! good call!
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 7:50 PM
can you suggest an ohm meter to look into, ie, brand/model, or are they all fairly standard?
i would definitely like to look into one, if im losing performance due to the body, i would really like to use my other alternative, and ground back to the battery.
Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 7:58 PM
There are lots of good meters on the market today. Fluke makes a large number of meters that are used by pretty much everyone in the industry. You don't have to get the most expensive or even a clamp meter. Just one that will do ac / dc / continuity and resistance. They can be found at Electrical wholesalers and Electronic Supply stores. A good basic meter is the fluke 7-600 or 12B if they are still made.
------------- Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.
Posted By: /R7
Date Posted: August 04, 2004 at 10:41 PM
thanks forbidden i'll look into it when i get some free time & money. as someone said, i best have a good job cus its gonna be an expensive hobby. but gratifying too :-)
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