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That is correct.  You want a SVC woofer @ 4-ohms, or a DVC @ 2-ohms.  There is NO performance difference between a SVC and a DVC woofer per se, just different wiring options.

Is your $100 your total budget for woofer and enclosure or just for the woofer?

100 bucks for the woofer and im guessin just a 80 dollar enclosure from crutchfield or somethin unless you have a better idea for what to do about an enclosure.

The Kappa Perfect will be under powered, someone said that before and they are right.  Personally I would go with a JL Audio 10w0, or 12w0, both will give good sound quality and volume.  I only say a 12 because it will be marginaly more then the 10 and the extra output will be there should you want it.  What are you putting this in? Truck, car, suv, ect.  https://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/w0.html  I cannot disagree with the recomendation of the Rockford Stage1, Kicker Comp.  However in my mind, if the prices were equal I would take the JL's.  Good luck, let everyone know what you get.

jakediggity wrote:

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I think i might go with a kappa perfect 10, would that work well?  Also what do you think of the mrv-f340 (i noticed you're selling it) would it be all right to power two diamond audio 4's and the perfect?

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The 340 will power your diamond audio's very whell.  Im only selling my 340 because i want to get 2 MRV-T420's, , im useing type-x components in the future and they need alot of clean power, plus im a big "over do it" kinda guy haha.

I was running a Alpine Type-E 12" bridged off channel 3/4 of the 340 in a 1.25 cube sealed box and it shook my truck pretty good, it impressed me since it only puts out like 100 rms bridged.

Hey everybody thanks for the input, this is for a 96 toyota avalon.  I think i might go with the JL's, i found one at onlinecarstereo.com for 100 bones, is that a deal?  anyway keep the suggestions comin if you got anymore.

Ravendarat wrote:

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Dont use the stage 1 rockfords. They have serious quality control issues this year. The cones will either seperate from the surround or the cones will just plain crack clear through.

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Ok I've been doin some thinking and i really dont want a huge jump of frequencies from the 4's up front and the sub in back, im afraid that its going to be too high pitched in the front and then a bunch of bass comin from the back.  I'd like a sub or maybe even a midbass that would blend very nicely with the 4's up front and in the back door.  Also if this could be fixed by adjusting crossovers or eq's list that as well.  And i have two questions still up above that i was wondering about thanks.

Bass frequencies are non-directional, set your crossover low to minimize a directional sound from the bottom end.  Besides that, what do you plan to use up front?  If you don’t have them already, plan to get a decent pair of components, and get them as big as you can.  Most 4” can be adapted to 5.25 or even 6.5” speakers with a 10-dollar adapter.  I do not know specifically about Avalon’s though, go to a pro shop and see what they recommend doing when it comes to getting a larger speaker size up-front.  Remember you do not have to buy from them.  I use a component up-front, sub in the rear set up in all three of my cars (1991 Honda civic, 2002 Subaru legacy, 1995 GMC suburban) and it sounds great.  Only the suburban has any rear-fill at all, and they are JL 5.25” in the waaay back faded out, and run off the deck.  I don’t understand what you are worried about with the power wire and the deck.  Just buy a wiring harness.  But yeah, if you want to use a distribution block, that’s fine for this situation. 

Im not sure if i want a bass frequency or anything below 50-70 hz in the back.  I already have ordered diamond audio 4 inch components for the front and some kappa 4's in the back that are going to be powered by the amp and deck respectively (amp in 3-channel runnin diamonds and sub).  What im asking is if it will sound bad having the 4's running and then a 10 in the back, it seems like such a big size jump and i cant do anything about the 4's now so i have to use them.  The deck needs a power wire to clear up your confusion and it cant use the harness' because it is too small, but im not worried about that anymore you answered my question about that, thanks.  But now i would like someone to reccomend a setup that will blend nicely using 4's in front and some kinda bass/ midbass in the back. thank you.

jakediggity wrote:

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Now, i need to run this amp to the battery with a 10 guage power wire as well and was wondering if i should use a distrobution block right after the firewall hidden behind the pedals to split the power wire so one can power the head unit and one can power the amp? or should i just run two seperate power wires? .

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I would run a separate wire for the amp, and 10 gauge is too small no matter what anybody says.  10 is cool for the head unit, but not for an amp.  Go to 8 gauge or better.  I use 8 because I know that my system is going to stay at a limited power, and I'm running it at a high ohm load.  But it's not worth it to run that 10 ga. wire to the amp and then find that you have to replace it sooner than later.

“Im not sure if i want a bass frequency or anything below 50-70 hz in the back” … I assume you mean the Kappa’s and not the sub.  Well your going to be crossing the front and rear speakers over if you want to get clarity and volume out of them.  What kind of deck do you have?  Does it have crossovers for the amp?  I assume you have 2 pairs of preamps on the deck and will be running the front and sub off a different set.  Use the crossovers on the amp with the ones on the deck.  For instance my suburban runs a Kenwood 6.5” component set in the front and JL 5.25” in the rear with a JL 10w3 subwoofer.  All ran off of a Jensen 4 x75 amp with channels 3 & 4 bridged to 200w (even though it does not advertise as 2 ohm stable bridged, it apparently is because the voice coils on my sub are in parallel, so I don’t really know how much is going to the sub, but its more then 200w).  I use the deck on the 5.25’s, crossed over with the deck at 120hz (I fade them out to).  The Amp has the crossovers turned on, the front are high pass at 80hz and the sub at 100hz low pass.  But I also have crossovers on the deck, that I use in addition.  That way I can shape the sound according to the music I am listening to. So, if you have a deck with Xovers you can really filter out the low bass, so instead of cranking the xover up to 180hz to keep the 4” from popping, you could cross it over twice at say 120 or so, giving you a fuller sound up front.  Ideally you want larger speakers up front, but you could sound nice if you have quality 4” speakers up front.  The 4” will have its limits, but your setup will be crucial to good sound.

I second what Stevdart said about the gauge of your power cable.  I think at this point 10 is fine though, but if you do anything else your going to want bigger, say 8 gauge.  If you have not ran your wire, do it with 8 gauge, you’ll only spend a few dollars more then 10 and you’ll be ready for future expansions.

You should browse www.sounddomain.com for ideas on your system, here are a few:  https://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/201380/1   https://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/271887/2

1.“Im not sure if i want a bass frequency or anything below 50-70 hz in the back” … I assume you mean the Kappa’s and not the sub.  Well your going to be crossing the front and rear speakers over if you want to get clarity and volume out of them.  What kind of deck do you have?  Does it have crossovers for the amp?  I assume you have 2 pairs of preamps on the deck and will be running the front and sub off a different set.  Use the crossovers on the amp with the ones on the deck.  For instance my suburban runs a Kenwood 6.5” component set in the front and JL 5.25” in the rear with a JL 10w3 subwoofer.  All ran off of a Jensen 4 x75 amp with channels 3 & 4 bridged to 200w (even though it does not advertise as 2 ohm stable bridged, it apparently is because the voice coils on my sub are in parallel, so I don’t really know how much is going to the sub, but its more then 200w.  I use the deck on the 5.25’s, crossed over with the deck at 120hz (I fade them out to). The Amp has the crossovers turned on, the front are high pass at 80hz and the sub at 100hz low pass.  But I also have crossovers on the deck, that I use in addition.  That way I can shape the sound according to the music I am listening to. So, if you have a deck with Xovers you can really filter out the low bass, so instead of cranking the xover up to 180hz to keep the 4” from popping, you could cross it over twice at say 120 or so, giving you a fuller sound up front.  Ideally you want larger speakers up front, but you could sound nice if you have quality 4” speakers up front.  The 4” will have its limits, but your setup will be crucial to good sound.  2.  I second what Stevdart said about the gauge of your power cable.  I think at this point 10 is fine though, but if you do anything else your going to want bigger, say 8 gauge.  If you have not ran your wire, do it with 8 gauge, you’ll only spend a few dollars more then 10 and you’ll be ready for future expansions.  3. You should browse www.cardomain.com  for ideas on your system, here are a few:  https://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/201380/1 and www..cardomain.com/memberpage/271887/2  

I would go sealed, a little SPL can be gained by going ported, but ported boxes provide little room for error to get good sound.  https://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf  Have you thought about building your own box?  Its not so hard if you have the tools and alittle experience.  Glue, screws, wood and mounting/connections for about 30$.  You can paint it black for cheap or carpet it for 10-15 dollars more, carpeting can be more tricky then building the box though.