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battery okay for constant?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=37039
Printed Date: May 13, 2024 at 9:23 PM


Topic: battery okay for constant?

Posted By: aggie altima
Subject: battery okay for constant?
Date Posted: August 09, 2004 at 3:26 AM

I now installed my processor, tapping into the constant at the harness. All is well, dvd's and cd's sound great, but not my tuner. Everytime i change the station, there's a pop. There is also a really loud alternator whine, and under that a constant whine. All of this ONLY happens with the tuner. The only thing changed at the harness was the addition of the processors constant, so I'm going to move it's constant (possibly straight to the battery, if it would be safe there).

Any other suggestions are welcome.

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Jon
Don't like rockford subs? Then don't look at my car =)



Replies:

Posted By: robbyrob717
Date Posted: August 09, 2004 at 6:34 AM
it sounds like either feedback or too much power being drawn and either the tuner grasping for power or the alternator struggling to keep up. i would try i new ground point for the tuner and see if that works if not running the processor to the battery wouldn't be a bad idea because it seems like thats when it started the problem so should end it. it also kinda sounds like a loose connection.

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94 Pontiac Sunbird 3.1 V6
alpine deck
audiobahn 3.5 fronts w/ tweeters
audiobahn 6.5 rears w/ tweeters
* sold rest of system to save up towards new car. $3000 spent on it.




Posted By: chevyman26
Date Posted: August 09, 2004 at 7:01 AM
you could also tap into an open spot on the fusebox, but running to the battery is fine. In fact, the Alpine hu's with the 60x4 (27.5 RMS) amps recommend running the constant direct to the battery. Just make sure there's a fuse in the line. Also, as robbyrob says, make sure you are getting a good ground for all of your stereo's components.

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You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."




Posted By: DYohn
Date Posted: August 09, 2004 at 10:58 AM
I doubt it is a problem with your +12V.  Much more likely to be a ground issue.  Try connecting a seperate ground for the head unit directly to the chassis (don't use the OEM wiring harness ground.)

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Support the12volt.com




Posted By: aggie altima
Date Posted: August 09, 2004 at 4:19 PM
Thanks for the replies everybody. Just some more details, my head unit was always grounded to the chassis as my stock harness doesn't have a ground, and my processor is grounded where the amps are. I'll try a new constant and see what happens from there. If you have any thing else to add in, please feel free to.

One other thing, i just checked the max current consumption, which is 10A, but I'm assuming this is if the processor's internal amplifier is being used (22W RMS x 5), so the current consumption should be less than 5A. I've never had my alternator be a big problem, just some lights dimming on loud bass hits.

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Jon
Don't like rockford subs? Then don't look at my car =)




Posted By: aggie altima
Date Posted: August 10, 2004 at 2:21 AM
changed the constant, no effect at all. any more suggestions?

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Jon
Don't like rockford subs? Then don't look at my car =)




Posted By: chevyman26
Date Posted: August 10, 2004 at 7:27 AM
maybe check your resistance at your grounding points? I caught a bunch of crap form Rob  the other day about this, so anyone feel free to correct me if i'm STILL wrong, but you should have no more than .5 ohms resistace between the grounding point and the battery neg.

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You'd better get me out of this lord... or else you'll have me to deal with. -- Hunter S. Thompson "F.A.L.I.L.V."





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