Use one 10 for midbass another for sub?

I've done some research but can't seem to find a clear conclusion one way or another. 

I was thinking of running one 10" in a small sealed box bridged off my Alpine amp which is also running my component mids.  I would  highpass the 10 relatively high, say 100 Hz (maybe even 120 Hz or more?), and use the parametric EQ to dial in a good kick for the midbass.  The midbass 10" would have to be in the hatch area, there is no way I could put it up front.

Then, run the other 10 in a large ported enclosure for good low base extension and adjust it's crossover point so it matched the rolloff of the other 10.

I've read that once you get higher up in the midbass frequency range that you can localize the sound.  Even if the actual tuned frequency does not get in the localization range, the upper harmonics can.  That's what I've read, not my statement. 

a) If you use a high enough order passive crossover to get the upper slope steep enough would it (localizeable upper harmonics) be problem?

b) Will there be interference problems running two subs from different amps with different enclosures?

Thanks for any info/links,

Mike

DYohn] wrote:

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t depends on the speaker, but sure you can do this.  I do it now with a set of ScanSpeak 7's.  Realize that frequencies above about 100Hz are directional, so if you want to maintain your front soundstage you will not what the "midbass" driver to be behind you.

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What are you using to cross over your midbass driver?  Zobel network?  What frequency and what's the slope?

I've got a 300ZX, no way I can fit a 10 in the front.  Has to remain stealth anyway, so that option is out.

I've got 6.5" boston Acoustic spearates up front, I've never been happy with the kick from them.  Then again I just used the parametric EQ on the Alpine driving them for the first time this morning, lol.  I used the EQ for bass with a 10 bridged on it, but I suppose I could try dialing in some midbass (on the BA's) using the EQ set to a higher frequency though, right?

a) Would it be worth it to run the 10" as a midbass?

b) What frequency and how much spread on the Q should I try ballpark to beef up the hit of the 6.5's?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but I hope they are educated questions at least.

Thanks,

Mike

It depends on your 10" speaker.  Not all 10's perform the same.  You may be able to use a good quality 10" woofer for this, but probably not one designed as a subwoofer.  It depends on teh performance characteristics of the speaker you choose.

I have my mid-bass speakers (in stereo) set into front kick panels.  I cross them between 80hz and 600hz using an electronic crossover (they are driven by a seperate stereo amp.)  A zobel circuit is for use with a passive crossover for your bass driver (or sub) and does not do anything to effect the actual crossover frequency.  It's purpose is to flaten the woofer impedence above the crossover point to improve system performance and avoid unpredictable sonic effects or changes int he crossover performance due to the woofer impedence changing at frequencies above its performance band.

DYohn] wrote:

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p>It depends on your 10" speaker.  Not all 10's perform the same.  You may be able to use a good quality 10" woofer for this, but probably not one designed as a subwoofer.  It depends on teh performance characteristics of the speaker you choose.

I have my mid-bass speakers (in stereo) set into front kick panels.  I cross them between 80hz and 600hz using an electronic crossover (they are driven by a seperate stereo amp.)  A zobel circuit is for use with a passive crossover for your bass driver (or sub) and does not do anything to effect the actual crossover frequency.  It's purpose is to flaten the woofer impedence above the crossover point to improve system performance and avoid unpredictable sonic effects or changes int he crossover performance due to the woofer impedence changing at frequencies above its performance band.

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I have two JL Audio 10W3-D4's.  I also have a single Stillwater Designs Kicker Competition 8" buried somewhere.  The kicker 8" will play up quite high, 3000 or 3500 Hz if I recall its specs correctly.

I've got an Alpine MRV-T505 running my BA components right now and an old school Punch 150 running subs.  I've got an older Kenwood 3-way electronic crossover for signal splitting, cossing over the sub and sub level control. 

Should I abandon trying to run a larger driver for more midbass kick if I want to keep my soundstage in front?

Mike

Hmmmm, well I'm excited and depressed.

I just went and ran the mids off the Alpine with the HP Xover set at about 75, the parametric EQ set a bit higher than that with some gain dialed in.

WOW, I've got midbass!  Damn, sounds like a different system.  I always thought the parametric EQ was just if I was using the amp to drive subs and since it was on my mids I never messed with it or even turned it on.

I'm depressed that I have had the system for so long and it could have sounded so much better all that time :-(

I added one JL10 in a small sealed box @ 8 Ohms bridged onto the Alpine with the mids and it sounded great.  Not massive bass of course, but well balanced.

Guess I have a lot of playing around to do now.....  I'll throw out the idea of a 10" for midbass also.

Kind of talking to myself I guess, oh well.

Mike

You car does not easily lend itself to upfront 10" speakers, so personally I would abandon this idea. What have you done to help out the midbass drivers in the door.

(1) Are they mounted to metal or mdf.

(2) have you sound deadened the exterior door skin.

(3) have you sound deadened and sealed the inner door skin.

(4) have you done anything to keep the plastic door panel from rattling against the inner door skin.

(5) can you fit any additional 6.5" drivers up front.

forbidden wrote:

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You car does not easily lend itself to upfront 10" speakers, so personally I would abandon this idea. What have you done to help out the midbass drivers in the door.

(1) Are they mounted to metal or mdf.

(2) have you sound deadened the exterior door skin.

(3) have you sound deadened and sealed the inner door skin.

(4) have you done anything to keep the plastic door panel from rattling against the inner door skin.

(5) can you fit any additional 6.5" drivers up front.

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1) MDF

2) no

3) no

4) no

5) no

As I stated above, probably when you were typing your post, i found out what the majority of the problem was: user error.  I'll have to do some experimenting to see if any sound deadening is needed.  I don't compete or show off my system, it's just for my personal enjoyment, so if I can live with it the way it is it'll most likely stay that way.

Thanks,

Mike

Watch out though, a great enough blow to the solar plexus could halt all visceral activity. (you'll crap all over yourself and your Z)