Troubleshooting Q: Noise + Burnt fuse?

Hey Guys,

I installed my amp (older PPI 75x2, bridged mono) and turned the radio on (stock CD deck) and i heard PoPoPoPoPoP for about 2 seconds, then nothing. No power at amp, so i checked the underhood fuse and it was blown (30amp)

What could cause this? the popping was really loud, even though the volume wasnt up.

What could cause this? a short somewhere, wrong wiring, the high-level signal to RCA converter, bad ground?

Been a while since I installed any audio :(

Thanks,

Aaron

I dont think it could have been, i passed it through a hole in a big wire-harness grommet (about 4"diameter) with lots of rubber on all sides.

I turned on the key with only the power, ground and remote on connected and the power light came on solid. This was before i proceeded with the rest of the install to make sure it was working.

The amp is about 10-12 years old and has been sitting in my closet for the past 3 years. Could it be shot? Was fine when i took it out of my last car.

Does the amp have a fuse on it too?  What is it supposed to be rated at.  You have to make sure your power wire isn't being grounded by putting in another fuse or testing for continuity with the ground using a miltimeter.

If you're power, grond and remote wires installed correctly you should be able to turn on your amp without a signal; except if has signal sensing turn-on.

if all your connections are good and you try another amp that works fine then your's might be bad.

The amp doesnt have a fuse on it or on the power line going in.

I could turn it on without an RCA signal no problem. Its when the RCA's are hooked up and signal is actually getting to the amp that this happens. i am using a Stinger speaker -line-to-RCA-converter. Think that could be the problem?

I turned the unit off, replaced the fuse and when i turned it on, it worked okay. Was fine for the whole time the car was on, but when i parked and started it back up, a single POP sound and the fuse was out again. seems like if i start the car with the radio at regular volume, it blows the fuse?

I was thinking that you might have connected the speakers to too low of resistance if you bridged them but if the fuse pops when the car turns on then it can't be that.

I was looking at the stinger website and I was two products to eliminate turn-on and turn-off popping of amplifiers.  I have a friend that changed his stock stereo for a performance teknique head unit.  He was two amps that are now producing a popping sound whenever he turns on his truck.  It wasn't there before with his chevy stock stereo but with his $100 cheappy it is.  When the amps send out the popping noise to the speakers it is really loud.  What I'm thinking is that when you turned off the car, popping occurred which overloaded your amp and fuse.

I'm not sure what to recommend.  Do you guys think one of those stinger devises are useful or is an upgrade in stereo and or amp with silent turn on more adequate?