Advice on what sub to use

Alright here's the deal

I have a collection of old subs that I have accumulated, and I am looking for advice on which to use...

2- Rf Punch 10's 4-ohm , these are old but in good shape('97-99?) Rated at 200w max I believe (model rfz  1410 I think) I can get the specs if they are needed.

2- Kicker Impulse 10's (10i) 8-ohm Rated at 125w rms (One has a cut in the surround, can I repair it?)

1- Pioneer 12 (ts-w303c) I've never actually heard this one, someone gave it to me today (It was sittin around like mine) 160w rms, 500w max

I am thinking that one 10 is all I need. I just upgraded and amped my components in front (polk mmc6500), and need to balance everything out. 1st- I want to install the sub(s) in a stealth enclosure ('96 2-dr Yukon) so space will be limited. Either one or two subs is fine with me, but I'm not sure I can fit 2. Also, I am going to buy an amp, whatever suits the wattage needs best. I am leaning towards the Kicker 10's but I dont know how most amps respond to 8-ohms resistance.

Should I mess with any of these speakers or should I just buy a new sub like a JL 10w3v2? JL makes a nice stealth set up for my console (w3v2) but I cant find it anywhere.

Any enclosure ideas or examples would be GREAT! I am having a lot more trouble finding the right enclosure.

Thanks

medicate,

Yes I have considered making the enclosure myself. I've made some really nice boxes with mdf in the past, and the only reason I have been looking for a pre made "stealth" enclosure is that I have no idea where to hide a stealth enclosure. It is very important to me that little or no functionality of the cargo space be lost. In the past I have jujmped into projects too quickly, and regretted it down the road. I dont want to go cutting into the rear side panels and then realize that I only needed to cut 1/2 as much as I did, etc. etc. etc. It really upsets me when I alter something factory and the final product isn't 100% perfect.

That being said, I haven't ruled out the idea, but I am definately going to take my time in deciding the specifics of a diy stealth enclosure UNLESS someone has some plans for one!!!

Also, thanks for the comments on the sub. The W3 was what I really wanted to do anyway, but it was hard to make that decision when I'm staring at 5 subs in good working order ya know? :o) In the end, sq is most important.

One other thing,

What would be a good price for a new/used 10w6v2?

And would the JL 250/1 mono amp be ideal for the setup, or is their another brand that would be better?

If you are paying 160 a 10" for a w3v2 you gotta tell me where!  The local guys want $220 for a new 10w3v2.  I have talked them as low as $200 when I buy carpet and accessories for the box at the same time.  As for used, that depends on the condition.  Personally, I would never pay more then 50% of new for something used unless I knew the condition as "a matter of fact".  So I would say a used w3v2 in good condition: $110 and down from there, a older 10w3 probably 80 and down.  You can tell them apart because the v2 has a inverted dustcap.

Right!  Cutting into factory panels scares the sh*t out me to!  Mistakes are a pain to cover up or fix.  If the year of your Tahoe is right consider this:  I think the armrest console is hollow underneath.  You could build a box underneath it.  It could be a "T" shape, upside down that is.  The flat part of the T would face down.  The longer part of the T would go up and into the space in the console.  You would build the console/armrest to fit over it.  This would raise the armrest a few inches.  However if your a guy like me that might be welcome (I am 6'1")!   I'll post a pic in a bit... 

Feast your eyes on this sweet rendering (not to scale of any sort) of what I what have envisioned:

Holy sh*te!  That is a sweet ass picture!  Who did that?

You are looking at this from the front or rear, take your pick.  Ok, the woofer is mounted on the inside to lower the amount of space between the enclosure and the floor.  I would recommend 3/4 of an inch from the floor to the bottom of the box all the way around.  The funny looking bars in the box are braces.  Ask if you need a detail of what they might look like.  The bottom is curved to match the hump for your transfercase, each side will be a slightly different shape.  Bottom line is you will just have to pull off the armrest/console and see what you have going on under there.  Good luck, and if you build this I WANT PICTURES : )

Try this...

Ok, I couldn't see the 1st picture that you put up, was it the same as the 2nd? That design is the one that JL makes and the pics I've seen are SWEET. I may attempt that build, and if I do I will definantly put up some pics.

Thanks for the info on the speakers also, I am going to have one of those babys real soon.......

I bought my polk components at Tweeter b/c I wanted the factory warranty, and I talked the guy down to $229 for the set. They wanted $299 for them and I wasn't going to buy them that day but the guy really wanted to make the sale. He tried to talk me into buying a 8w7 while I was there too, only $400!! He was going to give me a "good deal" on that too, but I couldn't do it. I know that they are bad ass but I just cant see spending that kind of money on one sub, much less an 8.

Oh hey I've got a new question, I'm looking into a Cap when I add a sub/amp. Is 1 farad enough? Does it matter what brand it is or are they pretty much the same? The whole Cap thing is new to me, around here people just get a bigger alternator if they need more power, and dimming headlights are something to brag about, lol

Yeah, it was the same.  I drew that pic in paint, so when my wife comes home and says: "what did you do today?" I can proudly show her that.  Ok, I don’t think she will be thrilled.

Making a assumption: 300w rms for the sub + 150 (75 per channel) for the front.. and we get 450w rms total system power.  General rule is 1 farad for every 1000w rms.  So you are well below that, but very close to the .5 farad point.  So its you choice.  That aside I don’t really think you need a cap.  Upgrade your big 3.  What are the BIG3?  This is the BIG3 https://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801  Also, make sure you have a good battery and a good alternator.  I just replaced the alternator in my 95' Suburban with a 180 amp for 150$, the 130 amp was 105$.  I would upgrade my big3 before I considered a cap.  When the car is running the alternator is what you depend on to supply power, so more batteries will not help.  Sounddomain is having a sale on caps right now, if you really want one.

Yeah, people say all the time "So-and-so can make his headlights dim, he's got major power, your lights don’t dim...!"  No, junior, he has got major problems *rolls eyes*.

Sounds like you got a fair deal on those components.  Sure you could have got them cheaper somewhere else, but allot of those "somewhere else" are not authorized dealers and you get NO warranty.  That is not a value to me, and not a "fair" deal, a fair deal is good price + security with your purchase.  Don’t feel bad about talking these guys down, they will not let you break them and competition is healthy for em : )