Amp install kit?
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41087
Printed Date: May 14, 2025 at 5:21 PM
Topic: Amp install kit?
Posted By: nc5er
Subject: Amp install kit?
Date Posted: October 17, 2004 at 8:30 PM
Hey Everyone, I've put together a SQ system which includes : (all used Old School equipment from the Bay) Eclipse 5303r H.U. , 1 PPI PC4400.2 (50W x4) F + R amp, 1 PPI PC2200.2 (200W) amp for the sub , Orion / ADS XTR 5S 100 WRMS front component speakers , 1 Orion 10" 2NTense 2 or 8 OHM DVC 1000W subwoofer. It took me about 7 months to research plus the funding. Anyway, my main question would be, what brand of amp installation accessories should I be looking for? With that calibre of equipment, I don't want crapy cables. My 1st choice is Monster Cable, 2nd, maybe StreetWires. I've found a kit by VooDoo which includes a 1.2 Cap and all the terminals are platnum plated. It is one of the most complete kit's I've seen and sells for $100.00. Should I go for it? Anyone know if VooDoo is the good stuff? Much appreciated...
Replies:
Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: October 17, 2004 at 8:51 PM
https://www.darvex.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SWCKH44&Product_Count=1------------- 2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.
Posted By: Francious70
Date Posted: October 18, 2004 at 12:18 AM
I kinda like StreetWires, but only the RCA's and terminals are what you need to look at really. Also accessorys like a distro block.
Paul
-------------
Posted By: nc5er
Date Posted: October 18, 2004 at 7:40 PM
I was full of hope in a clear direction here. I have searched for a month and have looked at hundreds and hundreds of kits. I'm pretty sure, there is no manufacturer I've not seen or heard of. The install kit I was describing is fully loaded, fused distrubtion and ground block, everything platinum plated. I am really itching to begin to install this equipment. The amps, I am sure I can do. Head unit, would be too tricky I think. The H.U. in there now, the car's P.O. allowed the install shop to hard wire. The front speaker install is way out of my league. Only get one shot at getting them in the door's, as the factory holes are 4 x 6 in the kicks. My ride is a 1988 BMW 528e with only 156K that I'm restoring, pretty tough when it's you're daily driver. Thanks for the link, I've found them on the bay before though.
Posted By: fatgotti
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 7:46 AM
From my experience I have found that it really does not matter what particular brand of wires you use other than the RCA's you can use just about any co. power cables just break the bank when you buy RCA's. Stinger makes directionals which I have always liked.. ------------- Fatgotti Yeah my name is John and I am FAT!! YEAH BABY
Posted By: dxav
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 8:18 AM
Go with Metra. Their Tsunami line is top-notch, power wire and ground wire very high strand count. RCAs have tons of different materials, some even filled with gasses, I think. At a shop you should be able to buy direct, too. Very cost effective. I just bought a serious amount of wire from Metra, and the quality is superb!
DXAV
Posted By: saranykm
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 5:58 PM
check this out, i went to wal mart and got my amp kit from there, this kit comes with 4 ga wire 8 ga wire, 2 sets of rca's a premium fuse holder, a distribution block, and all kinds of other stuff, i am running two eclipse amps with a total rms of 1200 im my explorer....these wires kick a$$ there made my scosche....knock it if you will, but hey these things dont just burn out easy
------------- GORILLA
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 7:46 PM
nc5er, I'd suggest you get that car to a good audio shop and get that install started. You're missing out on a lot of audio enjoyment while shopping for wires.
------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: nc5er
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 9:08 PM
I appreciate the feedback from everyone. stevdart, you are right, there is a top notch shop right up the road who, have given me an estimate for $300.00 already. I got a little testy with them over not bench testing my stuff after holding it there for a month. I guess it would be better to let them do the whole thing huh? They used to sell PPI before they became a waste. Their eyes lit up when they saw me walking in there with a couple of matching PC.2's in excellent condition. One more thing, should I be concerned about getting a cap previous to their install? That was not inclusive in their price, this place is high on their stuff. Even an old BMW will eat a huge hole outta yer a$$. Thanks again all...
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: October 19, 2004 at 10:03 PM
No, most advice here would be to forego the cap and instead get a diagnostic load test on the car's electrical system. See how much amperage the alternator puts out above what the car requires to run on. Have the alt and battery wiring replaced, and terminals cleaned or replaced. Clean and reconnect all grounding in the engine bay. Maybe run a separate ground wire from alt to battery negative. With all the basics done, you can decide on adding a cap at any time down the road, and will be something you can install if you want without having to remove any equipment. Post here if that time comes that you think a cap is necessary...I suspect it won't be. You're going to be running a clean 400 watt system, and just the cleanup in the engine bay will most likely take care of power load for you. Basically, you should use 4 gauge power wire and ground, and a fused distro block with 8 gauge wire to each amp. Speaker wire is normal 16 to 14 gauge. RCA cables are where you can spend a little more, but Monster won't get you a better signal than Scoshe. Just choose cables that have well-made ends. They'll all be twisted-wire. BTW, is the shop building the enclosure for it? ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: nc5er
Date Posted: October 20, 2004 at 8:20 PM
Thanks Sevdart, Awesome reply, everything under the hood is real, real clean. I've already cleaned up most of the wiring, fuse box, ect several months ago. The voltage regulator and bushing rarely goes bad in the alternator, but I'll get that checked out. I guess they intend to use an off the shelf box for the sub, which I don't like. I've been informed that the sub is firstly an SQ design, but will do SPL nice. Sealed is the way I want to go. The guy I bought all the speakers from use to compete withe them, he said I should use a custom built 1 cubic ft. box for it sealed with sprayed on Dynaliner or something like that inside. I do not have the spec's for the sub, I am not sure where to find them. Thanks
Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: October 20, 2004 at 10:35 PM
mailto:AudioTechs@directed.com https://www.orioncaraudio.com/contacts/default.asp First thing is to email tech support at Orion and find out the T/S parameters of your sub. A box isn't going to be correctly built or selected off the shelf without knowing the information. By far, custom box building is the preferred route. Sometimes a pre-made sealed box can be made to work by doing some customization. But you have to know the parameters of the woofer. Also, you will find out if that sub is best suited for sealed or for ported. The T/S parameters will indicate that. So you should use the best type for that sub. A pre-made ported box is out of the question. A good install shop should provide the option of custom enclosures, but sometimes one shop can be hired for the main areas of install, and someone else can make the enclosure. BTW, I guess the person who informed you that the sub is designed for SQ is the guy who sold it on Ebay, right? And he didn't supply the parameters? What's he expect you to do...guess at it? ------------- Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.
Posted By: nc5er
Date Posted: October 21, 2004 at 7:44 PM
I appreciate the link to Orion, I had already tried to email them via that link and it was returned to sender. Maybe this time it will work, might have to break down and call them. I read a post I found by doing a search, posted by the guy I bought the stuff from, while I was waiting for him to ship it. So, I inadverantly, got info on him plus the exact equipment I was buying from him. I had my heart set on ADS or CDT, but was aware that old Orion was the good. I bumped into the speakers and low and behold he had the sub in another auction. I did not hesitate on $150.00 buy it now for everything shipped. All he claimed is that the equipment was at or just below Orion's best, some 4-5 years ago. It's all in beautiful condition, the box and manual were included for the mid's and tweet's. The mid's, cones say ADS 117A, so I got some ADS after all. From another forum I've spent years at, I picked up on a trick install for the amps on the 5 series Bimmers. No thief would ever find them. It's the technical know how I need'ed for the audio that brought me here. And I am way, inspired by you guys. Thanks Stevdart and all
|