Alpine system & install questions -98 Ram

Hi, I've got a 98 Dodge Ram reg cab, and I have some questions about installing an Alpine system in my truck, first of all I'm going to be replacing all the speakers, head unit, and adding an amp & sub. parts to be going in are listed as

CDA-9831 Head Unit
SPS690A speakers for the front
SPS170A (6.5") or SPS130A (5.25") for the rear
MRD-M301 Mono Sub Amp
SWR-1041D (4+4 ohm) or SWR1021D (2+2ohm) Sub

which brings me to my first question, one dealer told me that to go with the 6.5" speakers in the rear I would just have to redrill the mounting holes, and the other said that I would need to enlarge the hole also.

I got over my first obstacle which was finding a sub box to fit behind the seat that would also accomodate a type R sub, but that's done, measured it up and it's .93 cuft, I'm guessing that'll be enough as alpine recommends .5 - 1.0 cuft. I'm leaning towards the SWR-1041D but really in this application would this be the best to use, and also am I heading in the right direction? The way I see it the 301 should have enough juice to drive one 10" type R, correct?

The second dealer also presented the idea of going with a multi channel amp the MRV-F340 in particular, and bridging 2 channels to drive the sub and using the other to drive my 6x9's in the doors. I didn't really like this idea, as at this point in time I didn't want to run new wires for my front speakers, and I was thinking of adding a 4 channnel amp down the road to power all regular speakers. but really which is the better way to do it?

I was wondering if the speaker connections for my factory speakers are the same as the new Alpine's, so it's just plug and play, or will I have to solder different terminals on? This again isn't a big deal, I'd just like an idea before I get into it.

that's a bit longer than I woul've liked but my closest dealer is 45 minutes away or these questions would've already been answered.

Thanks
Devin

I would stick with the 301 for the sub, , a mrv-f340 dosn't have enough power to push the sub, , altho that would be the best amp for the 4 speakers in the future.

As for the sub, you definately need the SWR-1041D  that way to can wire the sub to 2 ohm and squeeze the 350 rms out of that amp.

You will need to crimp and solder on new connectors to attach to the new speakers, its an extra $2 and 5 min labour to go grab the tools and walk back to the truck.

When you buy all that stuff, , ask for some of the terminals for the speakers, they should give them to you for free.

Remember to get speaker wire for the sub box, and an amp kit  4 awg is reccomended for upgrades in the future.

Also what guage wiring should I use from the amp to the box and from the box to the sub? there's maybe 2ft distance from the box to the amp...

thanks

What Alpine guy said abou the sub, plus this:  I would ditch the rear speakers and get the best 6x9's upfront with the a amp to power them.  You will get so much more out of your speakers if you just power them properly.  Clarity, volume, and depth will improve with proper power.  It makes no sence to buy good speakers and not provide enough power.

Did a 98 V10 Dodge quadcab (4 doors,whatever they call it) with Pioneer headunit, 6x9 Pioneer REV's in the front doors and Dynamat, a MTX stealth box (2 10" mtx 6000's, could talk him out of it) and US amps for the subs and 6x9's.  LOUD LOUD LOUD

I got everything installed, set the EQ how I want it (bassy with clear highs & mids) have my high pass set at 120hz, low at 80hz (on the h/u), and I was wondering what would be the best settings to use on my amp. I did end up buying the MRD-M301.

I turned on the Subsonic Filter tonight, allong with the Bass Compensation (currently the 3rd setting). Other than this the amp is straight out of the box with the exception of flipping the input volatge switch. what can I do to make this thing hit harder and lower?

My friend and I hooked my sub up to his 90 Toyota 4-runner with an alpine system (9830-H/U,MRD-M500 amp, 2 12" type S) and it just seemed to have a deeper tone to it. I'm not sure if it's the difference in cab volume or what. with my 10" in there it was vibrating the back of the seat, in mine I can feel it a little bit and the sub is only 3 feet away, in his it was all the way in the back about a foot from the tailgate facing backwards.

My next step is to turn the bass comp down or possibly off and play with the PEQ on the amp to see if I can get the same kind of sound, and set the crossover on the amp instead of the H/U, or should I have both set? just having both seems kind of redundant.. just want a decent baseline to go by or some guidance to set me on the right track as this is my first sub setup.

thanks

Sub position can make a huge difference in cabin gain.  You need to move the sub around to find the *sweet spot*  even in the same spot.  Try flipping, rotating and maybe even upside-down.  I have found sweet spots in every conceivable spot in a car or truck, dont be afraid to try everything.  You probably will have to build or purchase a new enclosure being trucks are very limited on space and mounting options.  "Fiberglass, it makes anything possible"

Hey I have a 1998 isuzu rodeo ls and am trhying to install an alpine radio in it. I was wondering if anyone knew what to do (because I dont want to mess up my wiring). 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Stereo Information This shows all the info on the wiring but I just want to be sure I know what Im doing.

Hey I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo LS and was wondering If anyone knew how to install an Alpine radio in it. 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Stereo Information Here is the info but I wanted to know how to install it. Thanks,

                                                                                         Mary