Sub cutting out only when I drive

Has this happened to any of you, and/or can anyone help me fix this?
My amplifier works fine, the sub works fine, everything is all good... until I accelerate. In other words, the system only works when I'm idle, or with the engine off.

Any kind of acceleration will cut the sub, but the amp light stays lit.

I have a cap that I havent wired yet, do you think this will help? This just doesn't make sense to me.

Alternator? Battery? Something...?

Blake

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I'm trying to learn... trying.

Check the ground..had a simliar problem and found out it was the ground.

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I guess that guy has subs.

No it's not the ground...
The problem has changed a bit though.

Now the problem is, the amp works only when the motor is not running. When I start the car, the amp goes into protected mode. Why???

This is only the subwoofer amp too, the interior amp works fine, car on or off.



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I'm trying to learn... trying.

What size power wire do you have running to your amp?

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Its definitely your REM / POwer wire, Either directly from your deck to the amp, or the Terminals on your amp. Review your wires be sure that they are clean  and tight.

I don't think it's the Remote wire, because the amp turns on. The only problem is that when the engine is on, it goes into protected mode, and yet it works fine when the key is at position 2 (right before ignition). This makes me doubt the power wire is at fault either.

This just doesn't make sense to me. There should be no difference between key position 2 and the car running.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Blake

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I'm trying to learn... trying.

Some amplifiers have an over-voltage and under-voltage protection circuit built in. It is possible that your amplifier is either putting out too high or too low of a voltage.

When the car is off, you only draw power from the battery. When the car is on, the car itself draws alot of power. This increased draw may be enough to "trip" the under/over voltage protection.

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Some amplifiers have an over-voltage and under-voltage protection circuit built in. It is possible that your alternator is either putting out too high or too low of a voltage.

When the car is off, you only draw power from the battery. When the car is on, the car itself draws alot of power. This increased draw may be enough to "trip" the under/over voltage protection.

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Work out the problem before going to a cap for the solution.  Poorman may have nailed it, and to add to that...with the engine running the power comes from the alternator which is usually going to be about 14 volts.  So, it sounds like an input voltage problem.  I suspect it might be on the high side instead of too low.  The remedy I would try is to turn the amp gain down to a less sensitive level.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I had that problem in my truck , ,still have it actualy.....For some reason ther is a very low level ground signal on my ignition wires, and it was making my amps do wacky stuff,    try jumping the positive directly to the rem on the amp.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Thanks for all the help guys.
My alternator started to make funny noises a couple weeks back, and after a few days of that, the headlights, gauge lights etc got a bit brighter. The windows and wipers are a lot faster as well.

It could be that my alternator is messed up or sumthing huh?

I'll try various things tomorrow, like connecting jumper cables to another car and see if it's still weird. (That should tell me if it's the alternator, right?)

Blake

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I'm trying to learn... trying.

You either need to measure with a meter or get a buddy who works at an auto shop to put a diagnostic load test on it.  But remember, you said the other amp is working fine.  So it can't be too wacky.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Definetely check the output on the alternator, it sounds like the voltage reegulator let go and is charging at too high of a voltage.  Usually when they let go, they don't charge at all, but some times they will overcharge.  And from the information about the lights being brighter, and things running faster than they used to, more than likely this is what happened.  Just out of curiosity, is the other amp the same brand or different?  If different, this is maybe why it doesn't affect that amp.  Good Luck.

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If it don't fit, Force it.
If it breaks, You needed a new one anyway!