I'll try to keep this simple. I have a 97 F-150 Regular cab with the Premium sound system. It has the factory cd changer behind the seat. I bought an adapter to connect to the deck to give me RCA outputs. I can't find a diagram that shows what wire is the REMOTE lead to cut the amp on.
I used the 12 volt switched wire in it's place. My Rockford Fosgate amp for my subs works fine like this. But my other amp that I have hooked up for my door speakers stays on regardless if the truck is running. On top of that there is a loud whining when the truck is running that comes through the speakers.
There are two harnesses that connect to the back of the radio. The typical rectangle harness has the (2) 12 volt wires and the ground. The other square black plug has the speaker wires and I'm assuming the CD changer controls. This is the plug I believe would have the correct REMOTE lead on it. There has to be a REMOTE wire to tell the factory amp to cut on. Does anyone know which wire it is? The diagrams on InstallDr doesn't have the same radio harnesses that I have.
Thanks
Chris
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1997 F-150 4.6L Auto Regular Cab
Alpine Mp3 H/U
Kenwood Preamp
Rockford Fosgate Punch 60
2 12" Rockford Fosgate Audiophiles
Small 2-way amp for rear speakers
Custom enclosure for subs made by me
I suggest you simply jumper the mains amp remote on from the sub amp. Or, you can pull the factory harness for the CD changer and test the wires with a volt meter. Look for one that is hot with the radio on and not hot with the key off. As far as your alternator whine, sounds like a bad ground or a bad LOC.
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https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1997&make=Ford&model=F%20Series&ID=17812&type=Stereo
1997 Ford F Series Stereo Information |
Constant 12V+ | GREEN/ Purple |
Switched 12V+ | BLACK/ Pink |
Ground | BLACK/ Green |
Illumination | Light Blue/Red |
Dimmer | n/a |
Amplifier Remote | Blue |
Antenna | Right Front |
Front Speakers | 6" x 8" Doors |
Left Front (+) | Gray/Light Blue |
Left Front (-) | Tan / YELLOW |
Right Front (+) | WHITE/ Light Green |
Right Front (-) | Dark GREEN/ Orange |
Rear Speakers | 6" x 8" Rear Corners |
Left Rear (+) | ORANGE / Light Green |
Left Rear (-) | Light Blue/White |
Right Rear (+) | ORANGE / Red |
Right Rear (-) | BROWN / Pink |
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John DeRosa (Hotwaterwizard)
Stockton California
When in doubt, try it out !
keymaster wrote:
I'll try to keep this simple. I have a 97 F-150 Regular cab with the Premium sound system. It has the factory cd changer behind the seat. I bought an adapter to connect to the deck to give me RCA outputs. I can't find a diagram that shows what wire is the REMOTE lead to cut the amp on.
I used the 12 volt switched wire in it's place. My Rockford Fosgate amp for my subs works fine like this. But my other amp that I have hooked up for my door speakers stays on regardless if the truck is running. On top of that there is a loud whining when the truck is running that comes through the speakers.
There are two harnesses that connect to the back of the radio. The typical rectangle harness has the (2) 12 volt wires and the ground. The other square black plug has the speaker wires and I'm assuming the CD changer controls. This is the plug I believe would have the correct REMOTE lead on it. There has to be a REMOTE wire to tell the factory amp to cut on. Does anyone know which wire it is? The diagrams on InstallDr doesn't have the same radio harnesses that I have.
Thanks
Chris
well remote wires that i know of are always blue.do you have a remote wire connected to your fosgate?if so take another single wire any color i recommend blue so you will know that is the remote wire, and connect it with the remote on the fosgate then connect it to your other amp. but remote wires are alway blue.
my remote lead from the deck is bad so i need to make a new on n off switch for the amp (remote).i want to mount a lighted toggle switch in place of the ashtray in the front counsel.it had 3 leaads on the back.any ideas on hooking this up?im just lookin for suggestions.could i get power from the old ashtray light?could i possible get really simple and splice a old ciggerett adapter to the toggle switch for power?any ideas please for finding a source of power?i wanna avoid doin the fuse box thing