Print Page | Close Window

Electrical Upgrade

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41994
Printed Date: July 09, 2025 at 7:51 PM


Topic: Electrical Upgrade

Posted By: uthinkuknoaudio
Subject: Electrical Upgrade
Date Posted: October 31, 2004 at 6:40 PM

In my Explorer i will have a Cadence ZRS-9 amp hooked up to two Adire Brahma 12''s, running 1600 W RMS into them (Total  800+800). The amp takes anywhere from 80 Amps RMS - 120 Amps PEAK. With this and another amplifier hooked up for my mids and highs, probably a 80Wx4 Amp with a 50 amp fuse or less, what electrical upgrade should i get? Hi output alternator? Batcap? Extra Battery? Please help.


-------------
"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.



Replies:

Posted By: Poormanq45
Date Posted: October 31, 2004 at 7:04 PM
I would definitely suggest that you get a High Output alternator. I would suggest one that puts out at least 150amps, any brand of your choice will do. And just for good measure, I would suggest getting another battery. Deep Cycle batteries work well for secondaries.

Note- with a high output alternator, it would be very wise to upgrade your electrical system. As the stock system is "only" rated to about 90~120amps. If you were to put 150 or more amps through those electrical wires, there is a chance that your system will fail(read: catastophic)

A capacitor is always optional. Personally, I don't feel the need for one. I just have a second battery(for the system) that has an isolator on it that only connects it to the main battery when the voltage drops below 11volts. This helps to prevent "over-working" the starter and alternator at start-up.

Anyway, that's just me. A capacitor is the cheapest option for you. I think you would need a 2 farid(is that the correct measurement?) cap. They are rated to 2000w.



-------------




Posted By: uthinkuknoaudio
Date Posted: October 31, 2004 at 7:41 PM
Okay, so what other things would i need to do with an hi output alternator so my system wouldn't fail?
 
Is the alternator the safest and most efficient way to hold power?


-------------
"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 1:38 PM

Hold for now. We don't know if this system is in a honda with a tiny little 60 amp alternator or a big nasty F350 with factory dual 130 amp alternators. <edit - reads the vehicle type again - find out how big the alternator is first>

Ignore the second battery unless it is for using the system with the car engine not running or for SPL use. Once the vehicle is running, the alternator runs all of the vehicles needs for power consumption with the battery throwing in any extra if the demand for current is high enough. Otherwise the battery sits dormant and is kept in a state of charge only. Now even with your amps having fuses of this size, you would need to keep them running at full output for a consistent time for them to pull that much current. If this is how you are going to be running the system, then vehicle dependent a HO alternator may be necessary, same with a good high capacity Gel-cell type battery.

Throw the cap idea in the circular file for now, a cap uses and stores current rather than creating it. Don't add it unless you need it.



-------------
Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: uthinkuknoaudio
Date Posted: November 01, 2004 at 6:54 PM
Check the top, i said an explorer. Its an XLS 2002

-------------
"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.





Print Page | Close Window