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Enclosure Size Calculation

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=42897
Printed Date: May 06, 2024 at 2:15 AM


Topic: Enclosure Size Calculation

Posted By: Sharp21
Subject: Enclosure Size Calculation
Date Posted: November 13, 2004 at 1:59 PM

How do I determine the optimum enclosure size for my sub?  Is there a program that I can input its thiele parameters into?

Ive got a Jensen xs1212 12" sub.  the document that comes with it isnt too good.  it suggests 1.5ft for best response in a ported box, but the number seems kina arbitrary.  Would it be better to go bigger?




Replies:

Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 13, 2004 at 2:14 PM

https://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31

I find this page to be helpfull for calculating ported boxes.

https://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=5

this one might be helpfull for sealed boxes. Reply back here if you need more help or questions. Many expert people here always glad to help.



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99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: jeffchilcott
Date Posted: November 13, 2004 at 2:21 PM
Frankly I wouldnt put a jensen sub ina 1.5 cuft ported box.     Those subs couldnt handle the movement it would be alowed in a box like that. I would put it in a 1 cu ft sealed box, to try to keep it running for more then 3 months

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 14, 2004 at 2:30 PM

thanks for the links. 

Im gonna build  a 1.5 foot ported box for the following reasons:

1. its my girlfriends car so she wont be listening too loud.

2. the subs are cheap!

its gonna be in the trunk (obviously).  should i put the port onto the backside, facing into the back of the seat?  or in the front, facing into the trunk?





Posted By: Rushman
Date Posted: November 14, 2004 at 2:56 PM
my best experience is to put the box as far in against the back seat as possible and aim the woofers and port holes towards the rear of the car , towards the tail lights.

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99 F-one fitty
Pioneer Premier H/U
Alpine EQ
Kicker 1200 amp
4 Kicker comp 10s
6 kicker SS65.2 components




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 14, 2004 at 9:30 PM
Build the box to the size best suited for the woofer.  Why is it you want 1.5?  Here's a link to a page that has the download link for WinISD Pro.... https://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=newdriver   have fun!

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: uthinkuknoaudio
Date Posted: November 14, 2004 at 9:39 PM
face it towards the tailights like rushman said...

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"I don't play games. I play Nakamichi and that for real yo" - Probably some japanese kid said this in the early 80's trying to sell stereo out of his trunk lol.




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 7:01 AM

Ok guys, thanks for the program.  its definately a sharp learning curve!

So the box is looking more like 1.1ft. or 38.1L!  

Now this program lets you "optimize your curve"  which is great, if you know what you want the curve to look like!  when I first input the data & hit go, the tuning frequency was 9.5hz.  Is that right?  Ive put it up to 38.1Hz, as that is the Vas value of my sub.  Which one is right?  Or should I tune it for some magical value in the middle?





Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 7:02 AM

Oh, & one more question.

The program doesnt take into account the volume of the speaker itself or the vent correct?  Should I add on 0.07ft to the box to make up for this, or just leave it as it is?





Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 8:43 AM
No, the program doesn't know what size driver you have, what bracing you have, or the wall thickness of the port, so you need to add up everything in the enclosure except the air and add it to the overall volume.  If the program came up with 9 Hz tuning, there was most likely something entered wrong in the parameters.  Use database editing to correct any wrong parameters.  When trying to find tuning frequency for a vented enclosure, the first try is usually at or just above the driver Fs....where the driver will play all frequencies that it is able to play and the port damps the freqs below Fs.  Vas is part of the calculation, but is a volume measurement and not a frequency.  When I looked up this sub the other day, I couldn't find anything on it to look at it for you.  So experimentation might be the key here for you.  Go with a sealed box unless you are absolutely sure of the driver quality and know the parameters have been carefully measured.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: heavilymedicate
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 11:01 AM
I would go sealed, you have little to gain from a ported box.

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What will you get for Christmas, bad boy? Coal........or Visonik?? - stevdart

Wow, is everyone clueless and lost in the dark? - uthinkuknoaudio




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 12:26 PM

Okay, now we are starting to get somewhere.

The reason that the program computed 9hz is probably because there were 2 parameters missing.  Ill show you what I got
Fs 38.1hz                         Vas 2.2ft3 (63.1L)

Qts 0.38                           Qms 10.13

Qes 0.4                             Xmax 0.157" (4mm)

Pe RMS 175W (575W max)               Re 3.49ohms

Sd 64.3"   (415cm2)                   Cms   0.257 x 10^-3 M/N

Mms 2.43 oz  (68.79g)

Bl   12.03 Tm                     SPL 91db

Ill keep playing with it, but I want to start building this unit in the next couple of days.  Id like to do it right though...





Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 12:33 PM

Right

Im missing the Le & Z values.

Also Im unsure as to which diameter to input

Nom Dia  9.02" (229mm)  or   VC dia.  2"  (51mm)

Also, the Usable Frequency Response is 20Hz-1KHz.  Would i set the graph cut-offs to these values?

Its interesting that the program wants all the values in meters!

I appreciate all the help.  One of the reasons I went with cheaper hardware is to learn how to do it right, with my girls car as the guinea pig.  That way when my own ride gets out of the shop...





Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 1:17 PM

I'll look at this later when I have more time, but meanwhile:  if the program shows l for liters, and you want to input cu.ft., place the curson on top of the l, click through the measurement changes....so in reality all conversions will be done for you by the program.  That is in the parameter input dialog box.  Also, the cursor changes can be made when you bring your project up in its own box.

Don't worry about Le, and Znom is the nominal impedance of the driver ( e.g. 4 ohms).  That sub has a 4 mm Xmax??  That's the typical excursion of a 6" driver!  Just see what size sealed box you can make for it.

Set the program low to 20 Hz, and the high can be anywhere 500 Hz and above for subs.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 3:05 PM

LOL

Before everyone starts cruising on my crappy components, just remember that the idea here was to use this as a learning experience & ive been learning heaps already.  Not to mention coming in well within budget.

I recalculated everything for a sealed box & came up with 0.982 ft^3, so it should be right around 1ft^3 when I take the volume of the speaker into account.  I dont plan on bracing it as it probably wont need it!

Ive heard some different theories on deadening material, but I was gonna use dynamat or something similar & line 3 adjacent sides with it.  Would packing in fiberglass be better?  If so, would I pack the box up with it, right next to the speaker, or just use a bit?





Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 4:03 PM
Uh, no, don't go with a sealed after all.  That driver comes out to a EBP of 95 which is a must for ported.  Looks fairly simple with a 2.0 ft^3 box tuned to 38.67 Hz with a round port 4" X 8.35".  That will be your best bass.  Seal the driver into place with speaker sealant or plumber's putty (either one will give way when you want to remove the woofer).  And use glue or a good adhesive caulk when putting the box together.  I use premium door and window caulk for glueing and sealing the box, and screws.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 4:57 PM

EBP?  Where do you find that & what does it represent?  Can you tell me how you got those values for volume, ports, etc?  I havent gotten anything close to that!

Maybe you could send me the save file?

By the way, im using WinISD beta, if that makes any difference.





Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 16, 2004 at 5:57 PM

EBP is Fs / Qes which gives you a value that determines what type of enclosure works best.  38.10 / 0.4 = 95  . The EBP comes up in the center of the second dialog box after you select your driver from the scroll down list.  That box gives you the program's determined type of enclosure and shows EBP=95.3  Generally, an EBP of 50 and below is best sealed, and 90 and above is best vented.  In between numbers, which a lot of subs fall into, can go either way.

To edit your driver database, pull down Utilities, database editing.  Select your Jensen from the scroll list and go to parameters...change whatever in it is entered wrong.  You'll notice the values you enter are a different color than the ones that the program determines (BTW, there is a check-off box to let the program determine values, check it).  When you enter parameters, there are some you should leave out...QTS and BL are two that I know the program wants to figure, because if you enter a value that is not identical to what it figures, you get an error box.  The parameters you listed in the above posts are all you need to enter, (leave out QTS and BL)  which is what I did.  The best enclosure and size came up automatically when I brought up the Jensen driver, and all I had to do was look at the graph and approve it and look at the port size and see if it was workable, which is with this sub.  The small Xmax allows for a small port length, so this is a pretty easy one.  And I'm using the same version as you.  You'll get it, take your time.  In fact, I have learned it better by helping out guys like you.

When working with the port size, you can change the port diameter to be exactly the inside diameter of whatever port tube you could find to purchase (e.g. PVC pipe, etc.).  You'll see the length change to accomodate the different diameter you entered, but the box tuning and size will remain the same.  And you can use the cylinder calculator on this site under Port Length calculators..to find the displacement of the port tube.  Make sure you add it to the overall air volume along with driver dispacement so that you get a net air space of 2 ft^3.

Oh btw, I just entered the Re, and not the Znom.  The program figured it to be 6 ohms.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 17, 2004 at 7:58 AM

So Ive gone through again & my EBP does come out to 95.3.  There are a few differences though.

For Volume I get 1.806ft^3  & for Tuning I get 40.5Hz.  Ql = 7 (?)

The Port is 4.02" x 8.38,  & the Vent Mach=0.08

All of my inputs seem right, however, when trying to edit them & leave out Bl & QTS, I do not have a box which allows the program to calculate the numbers.  This must be making the difference.

If I manually input 2ft^3 & tuning of 38.67hz like you said, the port length is 8.27 instead of your 8.35"

Im gonna try to download a different version to see if it makes a difference.  I want to have the box designed today so that I can get the materials tomorrow.





Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 17, 2004 at 8:17 AM
Is Pe the RMS value or the Max Power value?  ie. 175w or 575w




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: November 17, 2004 at 10:18 PM

The version I'm using is the current one that is being downloaded, version 0.50a7 (11-09-2004).  The "auto calculate unknowns" check box is in Utilities, Database Editing, Driver Editor at the bottom of the box.  But what you have listed as the design is very similar to what I got and will work just fine.  Mine has 4.02 diameter as default, too, but I changed it to 4" even, and the port length changes because the volume is slightly different.  This is something you can play around with a little and each change will result in a slightly different looking graph output.  What I showed you has a flatter response than the one you came up with, mostly because of the extra air volume.  You could build it either way and be successful.  The port tuning can be either, so feel free to use what the program shows you.

Pe is RMS value of 175W.  The 575 is a meaningless number.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Sharp21
Date Posted: November 18, 2004 at 9:51 AM

Alright

Ive come up with a box that measures (internally) D1=6" D2=10.8"  H=11.5"  & W=35.5".  The Vent is 4" x 8.1".  This will give a total volume of 1.986ft^3, with 0.1ft^3 taken into account for the volume of the driver, vent & wiring pot.  The tuning will be 39.96Hz.

Im gonna triple check my figures, then go get the supplies.  Exciting!

Ive massaged it a bit so that it will fill the trunk as I had hoped.  Im gonna place the sub on the left side of the box, & cover the whole thing with a 5/8" amp rack, which will make the sub fit flat, & will hide all the wires.  Should look pretty good.  Ill post pics of my progress.

Thanks for all the help!






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