cap and amps install

Im planning out my whole system right now so i know exactly what im doing. I have a question about the installation of my cap and amps. I will be having a memphis 75x4 amp powering my memphis components in front and pioneer 3 ways in the back. My JBL BP600.1 will be powering 2 10" memphis M3's rated at 300 RMS each. Also my bazooka EL2100 will be powering 2 memphis mclass 10"s at 200 RMS each. My question is should I run all 3 amps off my cap? or should i do something else? I dont have any problems right now when i just have the bazooka and jbl running off the cap. I just dont want my system draining the battery. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thankyou very much.

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

First off a cap will not prevent your batt from running down. If you are concerned about it why not install an HO alt. As for the cap just hook you bass amps to it. They will use the most  current.

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Yeah you are really best off buying a HO alternator, something in excess of 100amps, you shouldnt need much more than that with your setup, but still buy the biggest you can afford, in case you want to upgrade in the future. Without adequate alternator power a cap will hurt more than it will help. Capacitors dont produce power, they merely store it untill it is needed for a deep hit. Therefore it will actually draw more on your cars electrical system.

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I am also going to throw this in,   what are you going to try to accomplish by running 2 diffrent type subs?   crossphase? distortion? less bass?    WHY IS EVEYONE DOING THIS!!!!

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

is there a problem running 2 different types of subs? why? what should i buy if i want more bass?

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

2 Cents....Caps don't drain more power off of your car..yes the do store electricity, but when you have a hard hit from the subs it uses the energy stored in the cap instead of pulling it with resistance from the battery.. when the hit is gone it recharges instantly...  On the seperate size sub::: I did run 4-15's and 4-12's in a truck one time....just because i had them.. Would I do it again? At 30 yrs old---no... Use same size subs because of  cancellation due to pressure variations of the subs.. 12's move more air than 10's due to cone space.......93 pathfinder 4-10's ,4-5.25 mids, 4-1"tweets and three amps..Kenwood,Kicker and Jbl...

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97 Sebring Jx convertible
1500 RF amp with 2-10" Lanzar subs
2005 suzuki Katana 600

doyledee, if the cap is completely drained or even half drained during a good bass hit it could cause problems. it would be like charging the cap without a resistor and is not very good for the electrical system. the benefits of a cap in my opinion are outwayed by the possible mishaps

I think he is using all 10" memphis subs. But they are differant models, differant rms, and run off differant watt and brand amps. I cant see how this will sound good, as the subs will not be hitting at the same levels.

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First off, a cap, as long as it is connected to the primary power source (in this case, the battery of the car) will NEVER drain completely. All a cap is there to do, is fill in the current demands for that MILLISECOND of time while the battery tries to produce it's current. A capacitor is an EXTREMELY low impedance device, this means it can produce current very quickly, but as it is an electromechanical device, cannot produce any energy of it's own. A battery, on the other hand, as an electrochemical device, has a significantly higher internal impedance, so therefore cannot produce instantaneous current peaks like a capacitor can. Here is an old thread with pictures...

I am NOT advocating the use of capacitors as a fix for everything wrong with a car stereo system, they rarely do what they claim to do, but the DO NOT CAUSE PROBLEMS, in and of themselves. The energy required to run a car stereo system SHOULD always, first and foremost, come from the alternator. If you do not have an adequate power SOURCE, you cannot ever run your system effectively.

Think of it like this: Your stereo is a building on fire, What happens? You call the fire department. The fire truck comes out to put the fire out. You have a big pumper/tanker truck, with HUGE hoses (your battery, with asociated power cables to the trunk), and it starts to try to put the fire out. Eventually the pumper/tanker will be empty. This is what happens when the battery goes dead. How do we stop this from happening? We connect the pumper/tanker to a water source, right? What if that water source is a garden hose from across the street (or a stock, low current alternator)? It isn't going to help much, now is it, and the tanker will still go empty, just not QUITE as fast as if it had no water source at all. BUT if we connect to a hydrant or two (an HO alternator) the tanker can keep up with the fire as long as necessary to keep the fire under control.

As far as using different size drivers, we have been over this topic as well. At those frequencies, because the wavelength is SO long, relative to the size of the driver, there is NO way you will be able say (by listening) "uh, you got two twelves and two tens, man" Follow the recommendations in this thread and/or this thread, and go for it! Granted, it MIGHT be possible for a $2,000,000 HP Spectrum Analyzer to pick out the TINY differences, but how many of us have one of those in our garages?

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

right now i have 2 10 inch memphis mclass subs in a custom box in place of the center console and i am planning on putting 2 more M3's in a custom box under the second seat of my expedition. Will there be any cancellation since the boxes arent even going to be near each other? If there is going to be cancellation then what should i do if i want more bass in the back?

-------------
03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

can anyone help me out here? Thanks

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

haemphyst, 

While you might not be able to say, "you have 2 12"s and 2 10"s," won't the sound be slightly muddied without the help of some time delay, variable phase, eq, or some combination?  

Now, maybe I'm totally off-base - physics was more than a handful of  years ago for me and I've just recently become highly interested in audio.  But here are my concerns with different drivers in different places in the car anyway...  Please feel free to knock my thoughts down at will, I am honestly curious::::

I don't think the fact that the actual cones are larger gives me pause, rather, I am concerned with the different motors, different enclosures Q?, and locations.

1) Delay caused by different motor inductance numbers
2) Delay caused by different locations
3) Different enclosure Q's

1)  Different motors, with different inductance numbers (thanks Steven), will have different transient response characteristics.  In other words, woofer 1 will be firing slightly ahead of or behind woofer 2.  Even if located in similar positions in the vehicle, wouldn't this cause a slightly muddied sound?  Won't one woofer be settling slightly behind the other?  Won't this lead to slightly looser sound as the beginning and ends of signals will be playing supported by a single woofer rather than two?

2) Our friend AJRXtreme talks about placing his low frequency woofers in two completely different locations.  One set located very close to him, another located relatively far away.  Won't this difference cause some noticable time / phase / cancellation problems?  Now, I realize the lengths of the waves are very long.  But won't the close set arrive at our friend's ears significantly prior to the far set?  Won't this cause the same sort of muddiness or bloat that I have a hunch would happen above?

3) Different enclosure Q's.  Different motors have different T/S parameters.  Unless care is taken to match the enclosure Q's (or at least get close), won't this also cause differing transient response behavior?  One speaker might be rather tight, another boomy?  One having greater extension, the other more peak?  Cabin gain exists because the bass notes stay in the car, even though the waves are very long, won't SOME cancellation related addition and subtraction occur?

Playing pink noise or a sweep, you're right .. these considerations probably wouldn't have much effect on frequency response.  None of these considerations will probably matter to most people, especially those just interested in SPL.  However, one thing I'm slowly learning as I research speaker building more is that overall sound quality goes beyond just the frequency response graph.

Also, some of these things can be corrected for with some of the features on DSPs and some analog signal processors.  Others can be taken care of by switching the phase 180 degrees or taking care to obtain similar box Q's.  When someone comes here asking though, shouldn't we warn them that different sized woofer in different locations playing the same frequencies is probably not ideal for sound quality?  I mean, we can still tell him/her to go for it, but shouldn't they know that it isn't the recommended path for sound quality?

Again.. please comment, I'm in a learning process here and wouldn't be surprised if most of these were wrong or don't matter. 

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Im deff looking for sound quality.

-------------
03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Iff you are looking for SQ than why do you feel the need to run 410's. Alot of sq vehicles run a single 12 or 10 and sound quite good. I just dont see why you need this for sq. I do see this set up creating cancelation being how far away the subs will be from each other, I dont think this is a good Idea, but thats just me.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Also, don't get me wrong.  Setups with multple sized subs might not sound BAD, but my guess, for the reasons above, is that it won't be as good as it can be given the same budget. 

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Let me rephrase what i said in my last post. I want so much bass that i set off car alarms in parking lots by just driving by them. I also want to be able to hear the music clearly and loud. So i guess its a little bit of both SQ and SPL. Any recomendations to add to my system? I definitely want more bass than i have now with the 2 10's. Ive sat in the back with the bass turned up and i dont feel any bass in the back. I want my passengers in the back to be able to feel some of the bass. The front sounds awesome as far as bass goes. I just want bass in the back, but the speakers still clear and loud. Any suggestions would be nice. Thankyou

-------------
03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

i dont think u are going to be setting off car alarms with 2 10's...

"i dont think u are going to be setting off car alarms with 2 10's.." That's a pretty bold statement...put a couple 10" RE XXX's and tell me you can't.  Also when trying to tell all of us what you want out of your system..use better phrases than.."I want to set off car alarms"..that just sounds like something a 13 year old kid would say after walking out of his local Best Buy with his two "hard hitting" 15" power acoustiks in his hands. Maybe tell us that you're going for SPL would be better? That's just something that aggravates me.

-------------
Dave

Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud

If you want deep bass go with 15's. And scrap the idea of using a cap. If you need more power go with a HO alternator. 10's will never give you the kind of bass you are asking for.

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'85 Toy

I still have to come back and answer to kfr01 - he made me think quite a bit about some of my previous statements. And thanks to him for that. Supradude, as far as your blanket statement "If you want deep bass go with 15's. 10's will never give you the kind of bass you are asking for", you are VERY wrong. I have stated before about my "trading up" to an Eclipse Ti12, and about how disappointed I was in the 12's bass response - the Ti10 actually went NOTICEABLY deeper. Granted, these are very different drivers, and their alignments WERE different, but the 10 inch driver CAN go deeper than a 12 - so why can't a 10 go deeper than a 15? In a proper enclosure, ANY woofer can outperform a larger driver in an IMPROPER enclosure.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

True. But if you have a 10 in the proper enclosure and a 15 OF THE SAME BRAND IN THE PROPER ENCLOSURE ALSO, I would find it very hard to believe that the 10 would give you DEEPER bass than the 15. At least I have never seen it before. 

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'85 Toy

You didn't come out and say that if you actually meant it like that..You said to go with 15's because 10's will never give you the bass you need...Obviously the 15's of the same model would get deeper if both were in a proper enclosure..no one was arguing that.

-------------
Dave

Pioneer Premier DEH-P660
15" Kicker CVR
Profile AP1000M
It's Loud

kfr01] wrote:

---

haemphyst,

While you might not be able to say, "you have 2 12"s and 2 10"s," won't the sound be slightly muddied without the help of some time delay, variable phase, eq, or some combination?

Now, maybe I'm totally off-base - physics was more than a handful of years ago for me and I've just recently become highly interested in audio. But here are my concerns with different drivers in different places in the car anyway... Please feel free to knock my thoughts down at will, I am honestly curious::::

I don't think the fact that the actual cones are larger gives me pause, rather, I am concerned with the different motors, different enclosures Q?, and locations.

---

As I said in a post just a moment ago, thanks for bringing up these issues. It DID make me consider and reconsider some of the statement I came up with earlier.

kfr01] wrote:

---

p>1) Delay caused by different motor inductance numbers

1) Different motors, with different inductance numbers (thanks Steven), will have different transient response characteristics. In other words, woofer 1 will be firing slightly ahead of or behind woofer 2. Even if located in similar positions in the vehicle, wouldn't this cause a slightly muddied sound? Won't one woofer be settling slightly behind the other? Won't this lead to slightly looser sound as the beginning and ends of signals will be playing supported by a single woofer rather than two?

---

True, the motors will likely be a bit differnt, and everything Steven says regarding inductance and transient responseis correct. I was (for all intents and purposes) assuming that the driver were all to be run in a similar bandwidth, let's just say 80Hz and down, OK. The wavelength of an 80Hz note (or tone) is 14 feet (give or take). How much additional inductance would be required to cause one driver to be THAT much slower than the other, so as to cause a smearing of a 14 foot long tone? Twice as much, FOUR times as much? Even at those numbers, (and I have not set down with JBL, made up a driver, and tried it with different inductance values to see where the frequency response starts to have problems, with impedance peaks and the like) I doubt very much that there is going to be a significant problem as far as transient response is concerned. How much truly transient information is there REALLY at 80Hz and below?

kfr01] wrote:

---

) Delay caused by different locations

2) Our friend AJRXtreme talks about placing his low frequency woofers in two completely different locations. One set located very close to him, another located relatively far away. Won't this difference cause some noticable time / phase / cancellation problems? Now, I realize the lengths of the waves are very long. But won't the close set arrive at our friend's ears significantly prior to the far set? Won't this cause the same sort of muddiness or bloat that I have a hunch would happen above?

---

Again, read the above statement. At 14 feet long (minimum length - sound waves get LONGER as the frequency goes down) if one pair of woofers is 8 inches further away (straight line) that is not very much of a phase shift, and the phase shift actually gets BETTER as the frequency goes down due to the lengthening of the wavelength. Also, any phase shift he MAY experience is not going to dramatically affect his "loudness", which is, after all what he is really after - he said so. This is NOT by any means, an audiophile system, which would choose ONE high quality woofer, put it in a PROPER sealed enclosure, and run with it.

kfr01] wrote:

---

) Different enclosure Q's

3) Different enclosure Q's. Different motors have different T/S parameters. Unless care is taken to match the enclosure Q's (or at least get close), won't this also cause differing transient response behavior? One speaker might be rather tight, another boomy? One having greater extension, the other more peak? Cabin gain exists because the bass notes stay in the car, even though the waves are very long, won't SOME cancellation related addition and subtraction occur?

---

In a small cabin such as a truck, It would be VERY difficult to determine the differences in Q as well. HOPEFULLY, he will build the enclosures to a decent Q (depending on the mfr, they may recommend a different Q than another would - I expect close to a 1.1 for maximum power capabilities - this means reliability). Sealed enclosures are also very forgiving as far as internal volume is concerned - plus/minus 15% is not going to affect Q very much, and that's a pretty significant difference in volume.

kfr01] wrote:

---

p>Playing pink noise or a sweep, you're right .. these considerations probably wouldn't have much effect on frequency response. None of these considerations will probably matter to most people, especially those just interested in SPL. However, one thing I'm slowly learning as I research speaker building more is that overall sound quality goes beyond just the frequency response graph.

---

Actually, I think that it would be more noticeable with steady state information than it would be with dynamic information like music. It would be ESPECIALLY noticable to the microphone. You would be able to move the mic around and detect the peaks and nulls in the system. Granted, it would be very small movements, but it would find them.

kfr01] wrote:

---

p>Also, some of these things can be corrected for with some of the features on DSPs and some analog signal processors. Others can be taken care of by switching the phase 180 degrees or taking care to obtain similar box Q's. When someone comes here asking though, shouldn't we warn them that different sized woofer in different locations playing the same frequencies is probably not ideal for sound quality? I mean, we can still tell him/her to go for it, but shouldn't they know that it isn't the recommended path for sound quality?

Again.. please comment, I'm in a learning process here and wouldn't be surprised if most of these were wrong or don't matter.

---

You are correct. There ARE devices that might help alleviate some of the issues discussed here, but because the drivers are going to be different distances from the listening position, no amount of phase delay will ever help all of the issues for every seat. TD's only MOVE the null or peak from one place in space to another, when you have a setup like this. I think that, being all he is interested in is an SPL system, and given that the drivers are ALREADY going to be all over the truck, using different drivers in different enclosures is not going to do anything to the detriment of his goal. I do agree with you in reference to someone building an SQ system, yes he should be warned that this will NOT give optimal sound quality. You and I both seem to agree that one would NEVER build an SQ system like this, and if someone were to ask, I would steer tham away from it.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Excellent.  It is this sort of mature and well thought out answer that keeps me coming back to this forum.  Quite refreshing after some of the recent posts in other threads.  I have a few more questions and comments to this that I'll ask later today when I have some time.  Thanks haemphyst :-)

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Could anyone give me any suggestions on what to add to my system besides an HO 160 amp alternator which i should be getting soon. Its very interesting to read about all the aspects of the subwoofer.

-------------
03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Not to sound stupid or anything, but I was always curious about this...Wouldn't having different sized subs allow you get different frequency response from each. How is running a set of 12s at sub sonic freq with a set of 10s at higher bass freq any different from having 6.5" speakers playing mids with 1" tweeters playing highs. If I could do lows, mids, and highs then why not super lows, lows, mids, mid mids, highs, and stupid highs.

I listen to all types of music and always thought that I could benefit from this sort of setup (the 10s for the tight heavy metal drum hits and the 12 or 15s for deep hip hop beats), but was always told it wouldn't work. Someone tell me why?

Running them at DIFFERENT bandwidths is perfectly allowable... (our discussion above, as I said, involves running them all at one bandwidth and crossover point) and the behavior should do exactly as you suggest, however, because you are already dealing with a VERY small part of the musical spectrum, you will pass the point of diminishing returns in very short order. One driver is usually good enough to do everything you need it to do, but careful selection is important - AT LEAST as important as enclosure construction. I have tried many times with many different alignments to do exactly as you suggested, but I often times end up with an expensive sub/amplifier system that really does not do any better than a well designed and carefully thought out single (or two) driver subwoofer system.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

As of right now all i know is that i shouldnt put more different size subs under the second seat in a different enclosure. Is anyone going to give me advice on what I SHOULD do? THankyou

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

Actually, per haemphyst's wonderful analysis, go ahead and try it if your goal is more bass.  Just know that it isn't the best way to go for SQ. 

Another thing I'd consider, probably first: 

I'm guessing those subs up front are in a fairly high Q (small volume) enclosure.  They probably have great high bass / peak.  As long as you're putting a sub in a totally different place how about trying a single good 15" sub in a fairly large low q (large) ported enclosure in the back.  This should give you some serious rumble and output at low frequencies and low bass extension that your 10's can't provide.  Cross it over fairly low and you'll minimize many negative effects on the 10s because of the long woofer wavelength. 

haemphyst - I'm still pondering your post .. haven't had time to do any real thinking about it.  :-)  I wonder if any of the others have seen this thread, I don't think I've heard many of the other regulars weigh in on this subject yet. 

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Thankyou, I will prolly end up getting a 15" memphis M3. What should the demensions be for the enclosure? Where should I place it since the 3rd row seating is taken out? Should the box be ported or sealed? I appreciate all the feedback, im learning something new every day.

-------------
03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

edit:  "long woofer wavelength" in my post should be "longer wavelengths from a low-crossed subwoofer"  Find the manual for the 15" mempis or ask your dealer.  I'd try a low Q sealed or ported.  Sealed will give slightly tighter sound but the ported will have louder output.  The ported box will also be quite larger.  What do you think you'd like more?

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

kfr01] wrote:

---

p>I wonder if any of the others have seen this thread, I don't think I've heard many of the other regulars weigh in on this subject yet. 

---

I, for one, am reading and learning.......and I do have a rather loooonnnggg learning curve!  These types of intelligent posts make me happy to be a part of this forum, too.  I just can't speak with the big brains on mattters like this.  Someday, it will all come together.....

https://www.memphiscaraudio.com/LiveImages/112/45/DocumentURL1.pdf

Here is the link to where i found the enclosure recomendations for the sub. I believe the box is supposed to be 3 cubic feet for a ported box and the port hole be 4x5.5 for the M3154D. Is this the right enclosure size for the low Q ported box? Please correct me if im wrong Thankyou.

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

That is what they recommend.  However, I'd play around with WinISD and try to drop that tuning frequency down to at least 30hz. 

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

What is the WinISD? and how would i go about doing that?

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

WinISD is free software available here:   https://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

You plug in the speaker parameters and it helps you design the box.  Plug in the parameters you found on that page.  Try to set the tuning frequency lower, and see if you have room for that large of an enclosure.  Play around with it and try to see what happens to the SPL curve.

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

haemphyst,

First, thank you for the very thorough and interesting response.  Your post made a lot of sense and I am much less concerned with these problems.  I'm learning a lot from you on this board - I feel like I should be paying you.    God knows I've learned less from some formal education credits costing quite a bit.

haemphyst wrote:

---

I do agree with you in reference to someone building an SQ system, yes he should be warned that this will NOT give optimal sound quality. You and I both seem to agree that one would NEVER build an SQ system like this, and if someone were to ask, I would steer tham away from it.

---

Alright.  So my question is this, and I know this is off-topic for AJRX, but I'll continue to keep helping him...  When _does_ something like this start to matter for daily drivers looking for a little more output from their otherwise SQ system? 

The situation I'm thinking of is a very quick pluck of a bass guitar or a tight thump to the kick drum.

haemphyst wrote:

---

The wavelength of an 80Hz note (or tone) is 14 feet (give or take). How much additional [inductance / distance / whatever] would be required to cause one driver to be THAT much slower than the other, so as to cause a smearing of a 14 foot long tone?  ... I doubt very much that there is going to be a significant problem as far as transient response is concerned. How much truly transient information is there REALLY at 80Hz and below?

---

I've been trying to find some credible references regarding time smearing and what audible effect delay actually causes over the bass region.  Another reason I'm so interested in this topic is because I'm currently trying to plan my HT system.  I'm trying to decide between porting my L/R mains or leaving them sealed and between whether or not to use 2 subwoofers or one.  Anyway, I know this is far removed from car audio, but I hear all sorts of bable about 'transient' response and phase issues in the bass region on various websites.  Some of it is conflicting.  So, I'm trying to make a real determination of how audible delay problems actually are in the bass region.

On that note, I finally found an interesting post (see the last post on the page) here: https://www.trueaudio.com/post_003.htm 

John's post seems to support that you are very right.  His probable conclusion, based on some experiment data, seems to be that reasonable delay, (on the order of that probably resulting from different inductance and Q values), has very little audible effect in the bass. 

Now, put enough difference in distance between the drivers and it seems to make sense that you'll clearly start having an audible issue.  So, after my feeble analysis, it seems that reasonable speaker placement in the bass region probably has much more effect on transient response than either driver or box differences.

Would you say this is a correct conclusion? 
 

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

Im so frustrated right now. I downloaded the program but try to fill in all the parameters and the memphis web site doesnt have all the information i need. I try saving what i have but an error page keeps coming up. I dont know what to do. Someone please help me! THANKYOU

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03 F150 on 24's
HU:Pioneer DVD5700
Frt:MC57
Subs:(12)S12L7
Amps:(3)KX2500.1's, MC-2004

I created your driver. PM me with your e-mail address and I'll e-mail you the driver file.

You could try a 3.5 cubic foot box with a port of 4" diameter, 9" length for a tuning frequency of around 28hz. You'll be -3db at around 32hz.

Something like this would give you some SERIOUS low bass to complement your system. It would play much deeper than your 10" drivers.



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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

The trouble you're seeing with that pop-up is that you have entered parameters that don't exactly coincide with what WINISD has figured.  If you put in a figure for Qts that has 2 decimal places, the program wants three.  So take the Qts number out, and the program will automatically fill it in, as long as it has Qes and Qem to work with.  If the box pops up again, take out BL.  Do this until the pop-up quits coming up.  Each time, check the parameters and you'll see the number WinISD puts in  using a different color.  It's a little difficult at first, but once you get the hang of it you can use it very quickly.  And it doesn't need all the parameters to figure box size.  Just put in what you have available and do what I spoke of here.