punch hx2 blown! what subs now?

Hey guys im new here and im a well experience 17yr old, i have been installing and buying/seelling car audio since 14yrs old.

Any ways, i was recently getting ready to put a lift on my jeep so i can fit 20s with 32inch off road tires. BUT my  my 2 12" punch hx2s blew, i had a punch 7002 running 350 watt to each sub at 2ohms. and now one is distorting at low volume really bad and the other is dead.

I looked at the comp vrs and i have past experince with them and they are great subs, but i think ill blow those too with that amp and that last set was my second set of hx2s so im done with those. What subs are recomended for a good price and will match or beat the PUNCH HX2s

Don't touch the Kickers. For that kind of power, I'd go with Adire Shiva, JL W6v2, Eclipse Aluminum.... Something like that. The Shivas especially are VERY well priced.

Make sure you're not clipping with that amp, btw.

you should buy mine:):)

they are 12" pioneer premiers..500 rms

they are comprable to the type r's, punch hx2's...i no this cause i tried all 3 before i purchased the premiers...the r's have just as good sq as the premiers..the hx2's ranked last in the 3 choices i had..but every ear is differeent...

experienced enough to know taht i didnt do anything wrong but the subs were SLAMMING and i got them used.

Any one got a like to the shivas?

i actually got the system used and set up from sound track i  just put the amp in, normally i do my own but when i took it apart theyre was no subsonic filer(?) and yes it was in a ported enclosure

I would guess that to be the cause, just don't want you to have to replace again. You need to filter out those subsonic frequencies on ported enclosures.

I've seen a voice coil separate from the cone before... That would result in a sub blowing and not playing...

I'm not a pro in this area either, and this may not be the only problem. Most of the newer mono amps have a subsonic filter built in, if your amp does not have this feature than you will need to get an inline filter. I believe Dyohn had covered this subject with a link to a company to purchase filters from.

Poormanq45 wrote:

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Well, it depends on what your music source is.

FM Radio covers a frequency on average of 30/50 - 15k/18k Hz. So, if you listen to radio only, you do not really need a subsonic filter.

MP3 CDs usually are close to the frequency range of FM radio, depending on the compression.

Wave CDs(Kind that you buy) cover most of the audible frequency range, but still roll off at about 18K Hz up high, and 25/30Hz down low.

SACD cover the full frequency range from 10~35k Hz.

DVD audio covers about the same range as SACD

Do you use any bass boost features on either your HeadUnit or Amplifier?

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CDs can cover the whole frequency range (at least the low end) but most recordings dont have frequencys below 30 hz, like you said. I would at least buy some F-Mod subsonic filters. You can find these on partsexpress.com.

A subsonic filter is just a high-pass filter with a very low cutoff frequency. You can get equalizers and crossovers with them. I looked on Google and I can't find just the hp filter. Of course, the filters are easy to build if you can read a schematic and solder (https://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/active-filter.htm), and the parts are between $5 - $20 total, depending on what you do for a box...

I would seriously consider Adire subs before RF though. Shiva will beat RF anything at a GREAT price, Brahma is even more amazing, but at a price most 17 year olds can't afford, though it's still a good price considering the performance.

Hey i know most people are probably gona talk trash about these brands but if your on a budget i think these would be the best bang for the buck. either Ma Audio MA1200XL 600wRMS  1200wMax dual 4ohm coils,

or Audiobahn Alum10Q 800wRMS dual 6ohm coils. Ive delt with both brands and models and have never had a problem. I just recently installed an Ma Audio 8in MA800XL 400wRMS  800wMax, into my friends 2004 jeep wrangler. I  made a fiberglass box to replace the factory 6.5in woofer in the center consel. Man it sounds great, clean, and deep. woofer was only $65 @ etronics.com  and it came overnite from NY, NY to houston, TX. Check them out, youll be surprised with the sound.

the price on the adires arent a problem, im willing to do it right, BUT i want to keep the current box other wise it would have been hands down the l7.

And this system is only for a few more months hopefully when i plan on gettin something to get good sq out of and lots of SPL, im considering 2 w7s or two L7s

An F-mod would be the solution to your lack of a subsonic filter...you can purchase one to fit your needs off www.partsexpress.com for about $25. If you plan on eventually goin for Sq and SPL..don't go with the L7's..they're more for strictly sq...now the W7's are a whole new story. I would suggest Either Tempests or Shivas for a great blend of sq and spl.

I promise I'll shut up about Adire in this thread after this post! ;)

I'd recommend Brahma's over JL W7s. Both are great speakers, but W7s are way too expensive.

any body got links to the adire stuff? When i searched i found adire home subs and i need dual four ohm subs to run them at 2ohms for each channel

BTW i run around on syclone and typhoon forums and denver racing forums all the time and i have yet to find a forum so helpful!

pimpincavy wrote:

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Someone said they have never sen a sub that blew and would no longer move.

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The reason your sub would not move is because it the wreckless power thrown on it was not enough clean power to move it correctly, thus merely generating heat and physically melting the voice coil and welding it in place, locking the sub as you stated.  And I meant no offense by that, it's just how these things work. 

Adire Audio is a very reputable company with great products at great prices.  I used two tempest 15"s in a sealed box in the trunk of a honda accord a few years back when all they offered was the shiva, tempest, and maelstrom as home audio subs, and squeezed out a legal 153.7dB on an AudioControl meter.  They were powered with a JBL 1200watt rms amp and ran just fine for as long as I tortured them.  That was entertaining to say the least to watch this $450 setup blow away many other extremely expensive setups.  My only complaint was the awful sound quality at these brutal levels, but that was soon remedied by a tahoe who wanted a close-up view of my head unit.  

https://www.adireaudio.com/

These subs are rated to handle 500rms according the RF's owner's manual.  If you are putting 350 rms to the sub and they blew it sounds like a distortion problem. 

There are many reasons why a sub would stop playing.  You can over push a sub and cause the voice coil to freeze or break or your can feed a sub a lot of distortion and ruin it. 

AFAccord, distortion is not the only thing that can kill a sub.  Pushing more than the recommend RMS to a sub of a long period of time can also cause it the stop working.  Subs use air to keep cool like a car uses water, oil and air to stay cool.  If the air that the sub breeds is hotter than what the speaker can withstand and the sub is being demanded to go beyond it's true ratings and some point and time the sub will fail. 

I vote for the shivas as well.  Wire them in Parallel Parallel Parallel.  Making a 2ohm connection. I bet you will notice that they hit harder then the kickers.  Since the Xmax on them is prolly double.lol

Audiobahn!  dare you to say that here.  Audiobahn is the S#$T of the world.  You stay far far away from their "products"

If you go with the shivas, i say scrap the proted box and go with a sealed box.  You could make one easy, and it shouldnt have any of the problems you are facing.  that is if the subs weren't getting a clipped signal and the simply fried.

ok since i cant use the shiva subs...ANY other options thats got a good bang for the buck ratio?

i could run a single L7 15"?