New Head Unit Skiping or Breaking up
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=47268
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 4:18 AM
Topic: New Head Unit Skiping or Breaking up
Posted By: hoaxs
Subject: New Head Unit Skiping or Breaking up
Date Posted: January 09, 2005 at 10:09 AM
I was just giving a used JVC kamelon head unit. I installed it in my 2004 Cavalier. I noticed when I have the voulme loud for a while the cd starts to skip or breakup. What can cause that. Is the head unit drawing to much power, do i need a noise filter. Any help would help. Thank you.
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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Replies:
Posted By: supradude
Date Posted: January 09, 2005 at 2:24 PM
Make sure you have it mounted tight. And put a strap in the back to secure it.
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'85 Toy
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 09, 2005 at 7:58 PM
can it be anything else ------------- Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Posted By: supradude
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 6:46 AM
I can't think of anything. Maybe someone else can help you.
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'85 Toy
Posted By: 97Pathy
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 8:07 AM
does it do it with a cd you purchased from a store? About 3 years ago i had a jvc that only read really really good burnt disks, even tho it said it was capable of it.
Posted By: naador
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 9:06 AM
Once I had a cd player that would just skip randomly once it was running for 20 or so minutes because it was heating up quite badly. If you ejected the disc it would be extremely hot to the touch. Might not be your problem at all, but at least it's something to check
Good Luck
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 10:39 AM
Well first off I will explain to you that you made a good choice on picking a good looking and a safety wise cd player but there is bad news with this also, the way that JVC has there Kamelon cd players set up internally is not the best for quality sound when large bass is reproduced or for prolonged abuse of the tiny internal amp, first is you have a subwoofer set up controled well in your vehicle the actual cd player its self is set up like a old school cheap cd player is it is mounted with three small springs to keep the road movment from skipping the cd so when large bass is produced its moves it too much and continuously skips the cd. But if you dont there are other problems with this cd player, the internal amp in it is over powered from the factory and needed to be set up as a mosfet power but was not when it gets hitting hard it actulay get too hot draws too much current and slowly over heats the rest of the cd player from the inside out which decreases sound quality and could possibly make it sound like the cd is skipping or cutting out. Maybe if you described the problem and the situation a little better I could narrow it down some more for you.
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 10, 2005 at 7:45 PM
Thats what i quessed too twofootthumpin. I figured that i was just playing the music to loud and it was drawing to much power. The sq does go down and start to sound like static. Now if that is the proplem can i fix it in any way. ------------- Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 6:58 PM
Yah you can fix it, turn it down or dont play it so loud, ha ha ha I know that those prolly wont happen so I had the same problem with a sony and took a small fan attached in the same area where the cd player is located adn blowing AWAY from the cd player connected it to ground and the aux or the remote line power, comes on when the cd player is turned on and keeps air flowing around inside of the dash just enough to possibly solve your problem, it worked on the sony but no promises with your head unit.
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 8:07 PM
Thanks for your help. twofootthumpin. Now does all this happen just because it's drawing to much current. Because that gay but ohhwell i live with it. thanks.
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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 8:53 PM
Mainly it is caused because of excessive heat internally with the amp so it is running at a low ohm load but with the problem of low ohms in a unstabe amp it creates a lot of heat which interns to very poor SQ. With the addition of a fan and or other cooling extras it doesnt take care of your ohms problem but mearly covers it up. With the high heat problem the amp over heats which makes it harder to operate at normal effecientcy so it draws the extra current so it can make up the difference from the loss of effecientcy. Might I ask what speakers you are running off from this head unit and if you are running a external amp for subs or such? if you dont mind I would like to know for ferther reference in case it happens again with antoher person and just for my own knowledge.
Posted By: Jay T
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:10 PM
its not drawing too much current. if it was the fuse would blow. its drawing close to maximum current allowed, and causing it to get hot internally, interfering with the other components in the unit. If you're running external amps you can set it so that your head unit isn't working at such a high level. If the unit is new, consider taking it back due to your application. One thing people overlook is the heat generated due to their heating vents in the vehicle. A lot of vehicles' heating vents are routed right close to where the head unit sits. In these cold months, (Especially up here in the great white north) if you blast your heater non stop, it will only add to an existing thermal problem your unit may already have. It would be great to get another opinion and vehicle differences from someone else who owns this unit.
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:14 PM
With this cd player set up there is no inline fuse that is close enough to catch the current raise, let alone you might just want to check that the next time that you think of it.
Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: January 11, 2005 at 9:55 PM
It's simple...most JVC units are a piece... If you have subs then your problem is probobly the unit is shaking too much. You might try some dynamat on the mount and a backstrap if you don't have one already. I wouldn't be surprised if it's overheating. If it's drawing too much current then any fuse, inline or inside the unit, should blow. It dosn't matter if its on the constant or battery power line. twofootthumpin I don't understand how a amplifier inside the head-unit needs to be set up right at the factory. It's just plain and simple. JVC wanted to go for looks and a kameleon faceplate and not have a big price tag. With those principles most of the money probobly went into the exterior and not R&D...
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 7:42 AM
Ok I ran out of time last night in my explaination, every head unit has a normal operating current draw, DUH, but when you have a ohms rateing problem of being too low it draws more than the normal operating amperage, ITS NOT ENOUGH TO BLOW THE FUSE but it still enough to do some damage to the head unit and the amp in it, it doesnt go over the rated amperage of the fuse but it still too much for normal operating draw.
Posted By: Jay T
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 8:26 AM
twofootthumpin: Do you mean he's wired his speakers incorrectly?(ohms) or you think its an internal resistance problem? I'm not sure what you're saying
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 10:36 AM
Wired incorrectly means that if he owns 4 speakers at 4 ohms runs rears and front in parallel it run it below the recomended rating on the amp or if it is factory speakers it could even be lower rating than 4 ohms which would make the problem even worse.
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 7:24 PM
right now im running infinity kappas 6x9 in the rear and stock 4x6 in the the front. And yes i do live in illinois and do have the heater on right now. I thought of that to that the heat ducts do run over the head unit. I am also running no extra amps or subs. And no i do not have the wires ran wrong. The wiring harrness was bought from circut city and they have the idiot proof ones. And I know JVCs suck but i just couldn't pass up FREE. Also don't forget that i have a 2004 cavilier and i had to do a fuse tap for the Remote 12 Volt because the wiring harrness did not have one. So what is the proplem if it's drawing to much current none fo the fuses have blown or is because of the heat from the heater. Or is it both. Thanks this has come out better than i expected. ------------- Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 8:31 PM
Well at least you are running good speakers in the rear, infinity kappas at 4 ohms are very nice for quality of sound, I have this feeling that you are working up for the fronts which might possibly be your problem if they are of a different ohm reating than your infinities and could be creating the problem. I would advise you not to run the ducting over the cd player for fear of haveing more than air run over and into the player, this is why I recamended the fan but facing away for the player. I dont know if I just wrote it worng but I am not saying that you are running the wires incorrectly I am just saying that it could be a possiblity that your speakers are creating a incompatibility problem with the internal amp in you cd player, I am glad that you went to circuit city for a wiring harness if you did not want to try to tackle the wiring in the vehicle, it always works better that way. I am also agreeing with you on free I dont care what other people say JVC is better than stock and normally it works better than nothing. No I dont think it is because of the heater, maybe if you were running a few large amps and it was creating some kind of weird amperage drop from the battery but your not so I am saying that ones out. Like I said before, every head unit has a set amperage draw for normal use, hypatheticly 7-13 amps sometimes lower sometimes higher so for this situation lets say its at 10 just to make it easy. If when you turn it on it draws 10 amps and spins a disc and pushes your rms wattage to the speakers, you turn it up cause its some sweet music and you want your neighbors to hear it as well and it draws 13 amps to push the extra 25 or so watts on bass hits and extreme highs, but because of the fact that the resistance from the speakers is not all the same or it is below the rateing for the internal amp it starts to draw 14 amps and doesnt go down when you turn your music down, but isnt enough draw to blow any fuses just enough to make things operate incorectly which creates your heat problem internally in your cd player. Because this is a hypathetical situation numbers are going to be off and certain situations might be different but hopefully you now understand what I am saying, I know this because I had the same exact problem with a cd player that I installed about two months ago.
Sorry its a little long but I had a few points to get accross.
Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: January 12, 2005 at 9:25 PM
Every headunit works like that... Any speaker you buy is not going to always present a 4 ohm load to the amplifier and the amp's current draw won't be constant either. It just overheats plain and simple, because it wasn't designed well.
Posted By: twofootthumpin
Date Posted: January 13, 2005 at 6:56 PM
I beleive that you are partially correct in saying that it was not designed well but not all of these model presented this problem only a few of them. I understand that no amp has a constant current draw thats why in my writing I said more than once a Hypathetical situation. And yes, no speaker not even if they are the same brand and model will have the same exact ohm rating but the closer that you can get to exact resistance the better, another actual situation: Fathers caviler, four speaker system two 3.5" fronts two 6x9" in the rear changed the stock head unit(am/fm radio) out for a very nice pioneer head unit and it had multiple heat problems until we changed out the speakers and realized that the rears where rated for 3.6 ohms and the fronts 8 ohms, switched all of the speakers out for cheap pioneers at 4 ohms a piece and it took care of the heat problems. Of course this is slightly different than the orignal subject because this head unit did not over heat to the point of no sound or lack of quality it was just too hot for handleing, but at least it might show a little better what exactly I ment earlier. You might be right, none of these could be correct with the situation at hand, but at least trying to figure out what possibly could be the problem and trying and fix it, its slightly better than just throw it out its junk because its from JVC.
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Yes, money is everything when it comes to a huge system.
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 13, 2005 at 8:41 PM
Thank you twofoot for all your help. Every thing you said that could be wrong i figured too. I just wasn't to sure. I just didn't think about the the diffrent speakers, and yes the the Kappas are at 4 ohms, but the fronts i have no idea what there running at. But once the income tax comes, I'm getting the alpine cda-983 for a head unit. Two 12 inch hifonic atlas subs. Two 1000d hifonic brutus amps. A yellow top and two undecided caps. and the 4*6 kappas for the front. and maybe if i get good hours at work a 4 channel amp for the kappas. Thanks agian guys. ------------- Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: January 13, 2005 at 8:41 PM
make that a alpine cda-9833 ------------- Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less
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