Will I need a capacitor or a HO alternator?

I am looking at putting a Mephis Belle (1300wRMS) amp into my car with 2 '04 Kicker L5 12" subs(600wRMS) and powering my rockford interior speakers with 4/5 channels. I was wondering, what are the odds I'll need a capacitor or a HO alternator? Another 200-300 bucks is kinda hefty right now so I wanna see if I might be able to get by. I have a 98 Monte Carlo with like fully powered(windows/locks/sunroof). Anyone by chance got a good guess on my options?

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

You'll get buy, but it will cost u. At minimum I would say get at least a 2.2Farad capacitor, 1300RMS is what? 2000-2600 peak? That will suck a battery and alternator system dry in a few short bass notes and then ur whole electrical system of the vehicle will be put understrain. First the headlights will dim, then the whole car will run funky and finally ur alternator will go along with the battery. I would suggest getting a second battery, an isolator, and a capacitor. The HO alternator isn't really nessisary unless u start pushing 2000 watts+ alot or ur stock alternator cant handle the load (IE failure). Good luck

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"Shiny chrome when used in conjunction with bikini models is particularly effective in inducing brain deficit disorder"

02 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Monster System on its way.

I would disagree with xtream here... I doubt you'll get by at all... I've had to beef up systems with as little as 800 watts RMS.. especially when your using better quality amps.

If you expect any sort of life out of your battery or your alternator you will need to beef up your electrical system a bit... at the very least upgrade your battery->groud connection and your alternator->battery wire.

Without something between the huge 150 - 175 amp pulls off your charging system (like a cap or 2nd battery) and your amps I'd imagine you will find your alternator in serious trouble in short order...

Not only that, but keep in mind that an amp that sees a beefy 13 or 14 volts will put out significantly more power than one scraping along with dips into the 9 or 10 volt range.

You need not spend 200-300 for a cap either.
I'm using a $70 cap from PowerAcoustik works just fine from etronics.com. The technology behind capacitors is very simple and has been around for years. You needn't a Stinger or Soundstream cap to perform well.

Also depends if you want to run the system with the car on or off. If you just listen to the music while the car is running, then what Sedate said should work for a while. My 300ZX had about 800 watts in the stereo and the battery couldn't last (although I listened to it with the car off once in a while). After that, the charging system could never fully charge my bettery. I always had problems with my lights dimming, other electics running slower, etc. I guess a cap would work, but they just store power for use, where I had the problem of stuff not charging. I would recomend a HO alt over time (with in the year), but you should get by for now with a cap. Without, I give it 6 months or less.

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5.25" Components & 5x7 Coax Kappas w/Power Acoustik OV4-800
KAC 7252 powering 2 D3 8" Diamonds
KDC-MP728, KGC-4042A

Number one - No, you won't get by.

ALWAYS start with your alternator. A cap will not fix a low voltage or low current (and ESPECIALLY NOT BOTH) situation. A Memphis Belle (a class AB amplifier will run at best 50% efficient) running at RMS output, will EASILY suck 150 to 180 amp gulps from your electrical system - and yours ain't got it.

Number two - Good suggestions with the battery cables.

You will ESPECIALLY have to do this if you upgrade your alternator as suggested in the first point. A cap will not, I repeat NOT, in and of itself pull ANY more current from the system than it can put out, and as a device alone, once it is charged it WILL NEVER pull ANY current from the electrical system, and a second battery will NOT pull more than two or three amps once it is fully charged. It WILL pull more current than that in a high drain situation, but will actually not NEED that much in the overall scheme of things. It is an inherently self charging device, and actually requires MINIMAL current from the alternator to keep it charged. The best suggestion here is replace your front battery, and add an IDENTICAL second battery to the trunk, WITHOUT any isolators or relays. Wait on the cap, if you are going to wait on ANY of the items suggested.

And finally - Number three - Whether you are running the system with the car on or off, you will want to follow the above suggestions.

It does not matter if you are running or not running the engine. Your battery went dead the first time, J-N, and "and the battery couldn't last (although I listened to it with the car off once in a while). After that, the charging system could never fully charge my bettery" because the battery was discharged below the safe level. It had NOTHING to do with your charging system. When a lead-acid battery is discarged below around 10.5 volts, it will NEVER be as good as it was. Your lights dimming were an indication that your alternator was not strong enough from the beginning. A battery is NOT here to run your accessories, it is there to start the car. Once the car is running, ALL of your electrical power should come from the alternator.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Appreciate the feedback, haemphyst answered me exactly what I wanted to hear. (Sorry guys, but I read up on basics and a lot of suggestions weren't really gonna do anything.)

I just recently put a new battery in my car(Original died out finally) and I am pretty sure it is high grade. [The g/f's dad got it/put it in for me and it was about $50 and I am pretty sure that's with like a near wholesale cost(+10%)] I'll get around to finding out information on that.

Now as for an alternator, how do I go about that and how much am I gonna be looking at? And can I hold off on the 2nd trunk battery for the time being? Right now I wanna go on the basic level of making this function without my car getting smashed. I was figuring a HO Alt would probably get me there for the time being. LMK on anything else plz! Thank you again.

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

You can look for one at www.autoelectricpart.com.  Also ohio generator. Prices will range from around $175 to $400.

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'85 Toy

I've looked at the manufacturer stuff to try and find a sufficient HO alternator from that site that will fit. The closest I can find is the A8156N that is 105 amp, 6 groove/52mm pulley for a 3.1L. This all fits my car, but I can't figure out if that will provide anymore power to my system. Especially since they are listed at like 69.99 and the manufacturer would be like 100 for the stock in my car.

I just talked to my g/f's mom and she said I'll probably be wanting a 140 amp alternator. Which also means I'll need new fuses and all that fun stuff as well since there isn't apparently any interchangeable that is higher than 105. So where can I go from here? And is the 140 amp good enough or not or overkill? Appreciate the help guys!

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

Here is a link to the alternator on Alterstart's webpage. Good company, and you'll notice this alternator is also available in a 180 amp version. Of course, IT won't be 97 bux, but call them and find out how much it'll be.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

im not a big fan of caps...

i'd much rather upgrade the alternator first, then upgrade the battery...

a cap would always be last for me if i was still having problems...

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chevy II

theron I believe I already made that decision clear. :)

Thanks for the alternator page but I believe I'll be going through the g/f's mom(she gets parts at near wholesale for vehicles.) And apparently I can do the install myself or her dad can help me well enough if needed. Just need to know what amperage to go with. Is there a significant increase with more power( 140 vs 180 for example) or will it be just slight? Because unless this is gonna REALLY help I don't wanna invest anymore money into that then needed.

Also she (mother) said something about needing to put on new fuses, the father disagreed. Any clue if it'd really HURT for trying to get a better fuse set up or no?

Last here:

"If you expect any sort of life out of your battery or your alternator you will need to beef up your electrical system a bit... at the very least upgrade your battery->groud connection and your alternator->battery wire."

New wiring, is this what we are getting at? I'm kinda confused and if it is, what kinda stuff am I looking at to do this?

Oh and note, the Memhpis Belle is AB and D I believe. 1 channel is D with 80-90%, 4 are AB with 40-50%. COULD be mistaken.

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

Oh and also, with the 2nd identical battery. What/how will that interact? I saw something about 13-14 volt pull will do more for it? Yes/no? Why/how so? Sorry, I'm still learning. :)

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

Well, if your alternator is only putting out 140 amps, but your amplifier (and we already discussed this) is sucking 150 amps, it still isn't big enough to run the amp AND all of the accessories, is it? I'd go for the biggest thing you can stuff under the hood. It'll last longer than getting the smaller one and running it at the limit it's whole life, too.

As far as the fuses, DO NOT CHANGE THE VALUES! The device being protected by the fuse will not draw more current just because you have a higher current alternator.

The second battery is REALLY to extend the parking lot listening time - after all, it's twice one battery, right? . BUT it will also make certain your amplifier gets all the clean current it needs, as it is closer tho the amp, although this can mostly be taken care of by using a larger battery cable than necessary from the front battery, also... I would put it in the trunk, and DO NOT USE ANY ISOLATORS - IN ANY FORM. This means relays, too. Simply wire it in parallel with the battery in front, and connect the amplifier to the back battery posts. Run with it, and be done with it.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

 So basically I need to have like a 250 amp alternator if possible? (Assuming that the 100/105 currently is being worked fairly hard and 150 for the amp) And the battery will be put in probably around april most likely. (Thanks for explaining that to me.)

What I would do is have somebody test your electrical system, and find out:

1) What is your maximim continuous current draw right now, with ALL accessories running - don't forget your rear window defroster - that's a BIG one!
2) How big is your alternator right now, in amp rating, preferably a hot rating, if you can get it - this will tell you just how underpowered you are right now.
3) Total accessory draw, plus AT LEAST 100 amps (preferably 150 amps) for the amplifier is how big an alternator you need to look for.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

It has a 100 amp rating right now I'm pretty sure.

"1998 Chevrolet Monte Carlo ALTERNATOR
V6, 3.1L, Standard 100A; OEM #10480237; Internal Regulator; Clock Position: 3:00; Pulley: {1273}, Fuel Injection "

What would be a good way to get my electrical system tested? Like a local mechanic place or something?

And I have been trying to figure out all the amp powers and such, and I've been told there's no way in hell I'll get anything over like 140(Not confirmed) that will fit into my vehicle alternator wise.

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

So need to enable editing. I just checked up on that 180 amp thing mentioned earlier. That is being referenced froma 95/96 Lumina/Monte Carlo 3.4L. Will it still fit?

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm

Price on the 180 amp that fits my car is like $179.99. Man, that is a lot less than I was expecting.

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm