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Better Alternator???

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=49714
Printed Date: May 09, 2024 at 3:06 AM


Topic: Better Alternator???

Posted By: kc0rkx_finch
Subject: Better Alternator???
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 12:15 PM

I know enough to install a stereo without problems, but i dont know if the alternator will handle my system.

(2) Profile Baja 300 Watt Amplifiers (Bridged)
(2) SPL 500 Watt 10" Subs
(1) Pioneer DEH-16 Headunit
(2) Lightning Audio 6X9's
(1) Possibly An Amp For 6X9's

The alternator is stock in a 1988 Chevrolet Silverado Std. Cab short bed. It does not look as if it has ever been replaced. I do not know the rating of the current alternator. How can I find out? There is no info at Chevy.com

Do I need an upgrade? The battery is new as of yesterday, I was stupid and left the headlights on because I pulled out the stupid annoying buzzer for the doors. If I need to upgrade, what rating, 80, 100, 120, or 140 Amps?? Please help me.



Replies:

Posted By: kc0rkx_finch
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 12:20 PM
Also, do I need a distribution block for two amplifiers or should i be fine the way it is? Capacitors? All I know is the wiring. Nothing about this stuff.




Posted By: ty
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 2:42 PM

I would say with your set up you do not need to upgrade your alternator, but one way to check is if your lights are dimming when you hit deep bass notes, if they do not dim you probably do not need to upgrade your alternator because your alternator is supplying enough current I believe that you have a 105 amp alternator which is more than your system is demanding which is 86 amps if the above watts were rms you gave.       You should always run a distribution block between power lines from battery to seperate amps.         Capacitors are a waste of money if you are having that much of a problem with your lights dimming spend the money on a high output alternator first. 

 Also if you are new to car audio check out this website (even if you are not)

www.bcae1.com





Posted By: aerodude31484
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 3:43 PM
Honestly for that system you would not require any type of modification to the charging system.  The Baja amps are about 200 watts RMS a peice so it will not pull that many amps.  If you step up more toward a mid level system you might need some upgrades.  I would still try to run a decent 4 gauge wire with a distribution block.




Posted By: kc0rkx_finch
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 4:04 PM
okay will check lights tonight unless truck is in the shop. Supposed to get a few things fixed. It "supposedly" passed inspection but the horn doesnt work, missing one lugnut, antifreeze tank was dry among other things. I appreciate the help. Im not exactly a newbie but i havent ever installed amps before. The system is actually a friends who wants a system to sound good for as little money as possible. He knows absolutely nothing about this stuff so ive helped him choose everything. We installed the headunit last night which was a major pain as the previous owner had already ripped out ALL of the harnesses supposed to be in the truck. He apparantly ran new wire to the rear speakers but used the factory wire to hook them to his head anyway. If the wires dont go there, where could they possibly lead? I know for a fact that they were to his head as hel left that, and only that harness, in the truck with a gaping hole in the dash. Where should i ground the head at? I cant find anywhere within 8" of the head to hook the ground wire supplied with the head at? Should i extend it, wire it straight to the factory ground for the factory stereo ( where its currently at ) or run a 14 guage strip straight to the battery? Maybe im not as smart as i thought. You all seem very helpful and i would appreciate some more help. P.S. if anyone has a chart of what the factory harnesses wiring diagram was please send to kc0rkx_finch@yahoo.com




Posted By: aerodude31484
Date Posted: February 09, 2005 at 4:38 PM

Here is a link to the factory harness wire colors, and as far as the ground, find a decent bolt on the firewall, clean it off and the area around it and run a wire from there to the HU area.  Attach a bullet connector and presto.

https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/detail.asp?info=alarm&year=1988-90&make=Chevrolet&model=C/K%20Pickup&ID=17370&type=Stereo





Posted By: kc0rkx_finch
Date Posted: February 10, 2005 at 8:53 AM
Thank you so much for the info. I had figured most of that out but i wanted to make absolutely sure i had it all right. I found a ground area for the stereo but was unable to check for dimming headlights as it was in the shop as i suspected it would be. My friend was wondering is he absolutely HAD to have a distribution block. He doesnt want to buy anything else for this trucks stereo. I told him i thought it would be best but i didnt know if we could just hook the two sets of 8 gauge straight to the battery and put in line fuses within 6". Please let me know. Thanks so much for the help youve already given me.




Posted By: aerodude31484
Date Posted: February 10, 2005 at 9:09 AM
If you are trying to cut the budget, run on over to the local wal-mart and grap their 4 gauge wiring kit.  It comes with the wire, a 100 amp inline fuse, RCAs and a 2 wire distribution block for like $25.  It is inexpensive and will do exactly what you need.  Running (2) 8 guage will work but you will have twice the wires and twice the work. (1) four gauge will give you a good power source for both your amps. 





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