Using 2 gauge wire in a 1/0 socket

I have seen many sockets that can adapt between 4 gauge and 8 gauge by using a small circular ring inside. I have started to use 2 gauge power wire for my big 3 and plan on using it to run back to a distribution block. Most of the accessories such as distribution blocks, ring terminals, etc. are made for 1/0, 4, 8, gauge wire. I'm having a hard time finding something specifically for 2 gauge.

So my question is, how do I make my 2 gauge wire work in a 1/0 gauge socket? I know that I want maximum surface area between the wire and the socket. Therefore I cannot just screw down onto the wire. I need some sort of filler. I am thinking of making little rings like the ones found in the 4 gauge sockets. That is, unless I can find some to purchase. If I cannot, I am assuming that I should use copper. However, a lot of blocks are made out of brass. I'm not sure why, I believe that copper conducts better than brass, but brass will not oxidize as fast. Any input here would be appreciated. And if anyone knows where I could find these rings, let me know.

Thanks!

If you want it to fit tight, you could solder a short section of 1/0 gauge onto the end of the 2 ga., then fit it into the socket.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

This might be the cheap / bad solution but here it is anyway. Strip an extra amount of 2g off and double it over inside the 1/0 socket. This will fill the space and should alleviate your conductivity concerns.

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New Project: 2003 Pathfinder

If you are to do any of the 2 ideas posted above, follow Kfr01's idea.  By soldering on the 1/0 extension you have just added resistance with the solder, plus copper is alot better conductor.

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Depends on how good you are with machining metals... Personally, I would buy a block designed for #4, then drill it out ONE STEP AT A TIME, 'till the #2 fits snugly... It won't be that many steps, BTW... I built ALL of my power distribution blocks in my system, cause I was in the same situation as you are... NOBODY builds PROPER connections anymore, AFAIAC...

I have two 1" square aluminum bars with capacitors on each end, (this is the mounting points for the bars as well - also, I already HAD the caps from a previous install - back when I didn't know I didn't have to have them) (4) #4 in (two from front, and two from back), (1) #4 out (for the big amp), and (3) #8 out (for the other amps)...

This was nice, because I was able to build EXACTLY what I needed and wanted, without having to settle for an "off-the-shelf" POS...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."

Hmmmm....interesting. I wish I still had access to a machine shop. I would use a lathe to create a 2 gauge socket with a 1/0 plug on the other end......

Another question that comes to mind: How does soldering a connector after crimping affect the current flow?

A proper crimp will not need any additional electrical help - electrically, crimping is the ABSOLUTE BEST connection you can make, when done CORRECTLY... Soldering in this case will offer additional/better mechanical strength and stability, however; a plus in the car.

When referring to DC, the voltage may have be affected by a soldered connection, but not really enough to worry about. The higher the voltage, the less it would be affected by a defective solder joint, but the higher the current, the MORE it would be affected.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."