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Power from Alternator

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=50582
Printed Date: July 30, 2021 at 2:58 AM


Topic: Power from Alternator

Posted By: hoaxs
Subject: Power from Alternator
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 8:55 PM

Is it ok to get your power for your amp from the Alternator.

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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less



Replies:

Posted By: wayland1985
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 9:26 PM
That is basically what you're doing with it wired to the battery... The alternator power wires go straight to the battery...   

Keep your amplifier connected to the battery.

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~WAYLAND




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: February 21, 2005 at 11:11 PM
I think thats about the only way to get power for your amp. Besides a generator in the trunk.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.




Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 7:11 AM

I'd think the statement "Your alternator power cables go straight to your battery" is not only wrong but a very bad thing to say... I just recently learned a considerable amout about the alternator functioning in my car and here is what I've gotten:

Alternator power cable goes to starter on the battery side of it, then the power runs from there to the battery, then wherever else you need it.

Trying to run it straight to the battery could be very bad. (Also making sure the voltage regulator is good helps, bastards.)

BTW, stay away from Alterstart. They aren't willing to take care of the damage their product has done to my vehicle because they made an ineffective component. Going to consult a legal counselor about the ethics of business on this, if I can't hold them to it, welcome to a pissed off ranter. (STAY LOCAL)



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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm




Posted By: stevdart
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 8:22 AM

Asylum, the starter motor is fed with battery power (the battery "cranks" the engine).  The alternator doesn't generate power until the engine is running. 

Power wiring in the engine bay can be upgraded, but left connected to exactly the same components as the manufacturer  made the system.  Accessories, such as amplifiers, are connected to the battery.  There are some wheels that should not be reinvented.



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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.




Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 10:18 AM
I'm very aware of how the battery/starter/alternator interact now. But I haven't ever heard of anyone ever connecting it directly to the battery.

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 10:49 AM
hoaxs] wrote:

Is it ok to get your power for your amp from the Alternator.


Yes, but a CONDITIONAL yes. Your chances of getting noise are MUCH higher doing this. The battery is NOT ONLY a reserve for when the alternator cannot keep up, (and we all know this is a condition that should never happen, if your alternator is up to the task) but it is a filter as well. This is why you should get your power from the positive battery post.

Master Asylum wrote:

I'm very aware of how the battery/starter/alternator interact now. But I haven't ever heard of anyone ever connecting it directly to the battery.


Well, now you have. My alternator output post is wire DIRECTLY to my battery through a #4 cable, with a 150A fuse and a 150A shunt resistor, for my current monitor in the dash. I was forced into this, because there was NO WAY a #4 cable was going to be able to be connected to my primary fuse block. The alternator output in MOST cars today goes to a primary fuse block under the hood, where all of the accessories are tapped, with a single lead running out to the battery for charging purposes. When I wired directly to the battery, I also upgraded the lead that was FROM the fuse block to a #8 with custom made high current capable terminals. This then made it the TO the fuse block cable. It is still connected to the battery, throught the big ol' Monster terminals that I installed, and actually, most of my accessories now run better. Probably, this is due to the higher current path of a #8, rather than the #10 that comes with the car.

Basically what I am saying, is it CAN be done, but usually there is a great deal of effort to do so. If you are willing to go to this effort, and understand COMPLETELY what you are doing first, go for it...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: Master Asylum
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 10:54 AM
The completely understanding part is the concern I have. Electrical systems are dangerous if one bad faulty move is made and can result in a new car at your expense. Just don't think anyone should be advising people to do it on here. :)

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1998 Monte Carlo w/
Eclipse CD8454
2xRockford 5.25" Power 2-way T152C
2xRockford 6"x9" Punch 3-way FRC4369
1xMemphis 16-MCH1300 5-channel
2xKicker 12" L5 Solobaric-2 Ohm




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 12:02 PM
If you return that pos alterstart i can get you about a 5% discount on a mechman alt , which by the way they test before they ship....

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 2:29 PM
thanks for the help guys, the only reason i ask is because ran wire for one of my friends and he didn't have enough power wire to get to the battery so i just hooked it up to the ALT.  I relised it wasn't going to harm anything but just wanted to double check.

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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less




Posted By: diabolicaldon
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 5:47 PM
The stock wire in my 2000 camaro went directly from the alternator to the battery, so of course that's how i ran the upgraded wire.




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 9:25 PM
I always leave all the factory wires, then just add a wire from the alt to the battery, and a new ground from alt to battery.  In my truck i have on the side posts all the factory  positive and negitive wires, then on the top (+) post i have my alt wire run with 0 awg, and my power wire to the amps . And i have a 0 awg groung to body, and 0 awg ground to alt both to the top post as whell.   Ground resistance is believe it or not 0 ohm in my engine compartment posted_image

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: DDexter
Date Posted: February 22, 2005 at 9:29 PM
you did not mention fuses.  the OEM wiring has a fusible link.  If you upgrade the wiring, you must fuse it accordingly.  Be sure to locate your fuses propely (as close to the power source as possible)




Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 2:28 PM
I thought it was impossible to get 0 ohms.  Only real close to it. 

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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 2:59 PM
its reading .002, which is the same reading i get when i touch the 2 test leads together on my dmm, i couldn't believe it either, but meh, im not complaining.  IM shure the resistance is much higher in the back, i haven't tested there yet since i have no equipment in rite now.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: MBZ oe
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 8:20 PM

Heres how I did mine- 0ga from alt to a 0ga T-block where I split  to amp fuse and to battery with 0ga . Then I ran a 4ga to my factory power block. 0ga for grounds and to the back.  I get no interference/noise with this setup but I also use high quality RCA's and ran them down one side of car and power wires down the other. posted_image



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BOOM, BOOM, BOOM BOOM....




Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 11:41 PM
Thanks for the pic, it's belivable now.  The only reason why i have my setup so ghetto rig is because, im 17 with a car note, insurance bill, phone bill, computer bill, and gas bill.  It gets hard with a expensive hobby like this. So i try to make do with what i got.  Thanks for all your help guys.

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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less




Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 11:50 PM

This last post has nothing to do with this.  i was confused and thought i was in a diffrent one.  But the same still goes for the pic.



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Hurry get me a steel hanger, elec tape, zip ties, a monkey and a snorgle. trust me i've ran wires with less




Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 11:50 PM

This last post has nothing to do with this.  i was confused and thought i was in a diffrent one.  But the same still goes for the pic.





Posted By: hoaxs
Date Posted: February 23, 2005 at 11:51 PM
The last post had nothing to do with the disscussion i was confused with another post.  Thanks for the pic though.





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