Factory Head Unit to two amps

04 Chevy Silverado Ext Cab
Factory Head
JL 300/4 -> JL xr650csi + rear fill?
JL 250/1 -> JL 10W3V2-4Ω
(I know, I know.. JL poster boy)

I'll have the factory head unit speaker level out to these amps. I'll solder some RCA's to the factory speaker outs because the JL's can take high or low level inputs but require an RCA connection. The front speakers will go directly to the 300/4. The rear speaker outs will goto the 250/1 then out to the 300/4. The 250/1 does not require a remote turn on because it senses the speaker level coming in and turns on with that. Once that happens, the 250/1's remote turn on can be used to turn on the 300/4.

I do not have these amps as of yet. I am just planning the installation. Maybe overplanning.

My questions are these... Can you see any problems with the above? What would be the prefered method while retaining the factory head unit? Will it be ok to split the rear speaker wires to run to the 250/1 and to the rear speakers for the time being until I get the 300/4?

yeah, that'll work, but it's not ideal

why do you want to keep the factory HU. it is aparently not money with the components you've selected. Theft issues or HU integration??

-Drew

anti-theft = 100% Just want to be as stealthy as possible. Amps will be installed behind rear seat, so only real way to get those is remove the rear seat. Sub will be mounted below rear seat and bolted through floor from inside the box before sub is installed into the box. Then I am removing the ability to fold up my rear seat by disabling the latch that allows it to be released.

Instead of using the high level inputs or outboard LOC's, buy yourself the Audio Control LC6 + bass remote. Now you have a stellar interface device between the factory head and you amps + the ability to control the output of the sub indipendent from the master volume control.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

Understand what you are saying about the anti-theft, I myself have been burned a few times.

And not to really hound you on wanting to keep the stock head unit, but you won't have a great signal to you amplifiers, tapping into your speaker wires lessens the quality.

Have you considered some aftermarket units that have no "special effects" to them, just off the top of my head, Nakamichi makes some fine pieces that don't really have much of the "steal appeal" to your everyday thief.

It seems you have some nice equipment and I wouldn't want you to be disappointed with it because of a degraded signal.

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I definately agree that that is not the ideal set up. In my younger and poorer days, I did that with a few systems. But once I had the money, I replaced the HU. Wow what a difference. You definately can hear it.

You know as long as you take the face off the HU, the thief probably wont bother. I lived at an apartment complex in Portland, OR, and about 10 cars got broke into one night and the HU's ripped out. The cars on both sides of mine had the windows smashed and they skipped mine since I removed my face. And since I just spent $400 dollars on it, I sure was glad I rememberd to pull the face off.

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SonyES CDX-C90 - SonyES XDP-210EQ - 2X SonyES CDX-91 - SonyES XM-2100G

Even with the face removed, it signals thiefs that you may have some other equipment in there. I have a few faceplates without head units because they stole the units without the face. You simply buy a new face from the mfg. I've had my crap ripped off way too many times.    Yes even with an alarm. I haven't had a system for about 5 years now because of it.

As for the signal fixers etc, I'll be getting this https://www.jlaudio.com/press/CleanSweep05.html when JL releases it.

But for now I guess my original ideas will have to stand unless someone has some other input or suggestions that may help my planning. Thanks everyone.

Rob of Forbidden-fame's suggestion on what to use to integrate the factory head without showing any detectable devices is the best thing for you to do.  For the reason you gave-stealth only-there should be no other solution that is better.  As much as the high level input sounds like a work of art in that amp....it is not.  I suggest you don't use that type of amp input.  And second only to the Audio Control you should use a high quality 4-channel LOC.  If you do, use the front speaker wires to get the signal for the sub so that you can retain use of the fader on the factory head and control the interior sound better.

Rob @ forbidden - I'll definitely check into that. Why would you suggest that vs any other LOC?

stevdart - you said "As much as the high level input sounds like a work of art in that amp....it is not." Why? what is the problem or shortcoming? Isn't the Audio Control LC6 also using that same high level input? Without being familiar with the LC6 and not seeing much info on their site, it just seems like another LOC to me. What is the difference?

As far as fading, I'm beginning to think I'm going to get rid of the rear speakers all together. I've read (not witnessed or experienced) that imaging and sound quality are better without the rear fill. If I do use rear fill, I may just run a decent set of speakers off of the factory speaker level outs. That is why I asked about branching off of the rears to give signal to the sub amp.

I really appreciate the input so far, keep it coming. I learn so much every time I post here. (5+ :-)

For it's flexibility for installation, for the 5 year warranty, for it's multiple uses both as a LOC in either 2 or 4 channels, 2/4/6 channel rca outputs + the ability to control the sub volume indipendent of the master volume, greater immunity to noise, a higher output voltage with a lower output impedence. All in all, it is a better sounding unit that does a better job. YOu have a the start of a great system. What you need to give it is the one device that will give it proper control.

Most built in LOC's are only basic by design, a high impedence and low voltage. They are usually a breeding ground for noise as well. As far as the rear fill goes, it is up to the user. I like rear fill and I would use the proper speakers (amplified) in my own vehicle. There is a world of difference between the "correct" way of doing things and the real world with you driving in a vehicle, it is called user preference.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

I've looked into the audiocontrol LC6. It looks like a pretty good product that would fit nicely into this project. Eventually I'll have LC6 going to a JL CleanSweep. After reading a forum post on JL's CleanSweep and reading the JL rep suggest a LC6 and an audiophile buddy of mine all suggesting an LC6, it must be the best product for my application??? Local retailers however don't have the LC6? Are there any online distributors of this product or does anyone know where I can get one?

Rob @ forbidden - you sell these? I kind of assume you do/did as frequently you suggest this product. I really appreciate the suggestion.

I do sell these but I am also a Canadian retailer, thus any pricing I give you goes out the window (with the warranty) the minute it hits the border. Audio Control does not allow on-line retailing of their products. Find a local dealer and have them order one for you. It is a newer product and they might not be aware of it.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.

I really appreciate your help on this Rob. I'm sure you'll see a post from me when this thing comes on how to adjust it properly. Thanks again.