I bought Dynamat so I could stop some rattleing that is going on and im also going to be doing other areas. I was wondering if their was an approach I should take on stratigically placing the dynamat in certain areas for best performance. I have a 1990 Honda prelude with components and coax in back. I was planning on just dynamatting everything. The floor the doors, panels firewall the works, is this going to achieve the best quality?
If you can afford it, strip the interior and cover every inch of the car.
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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
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Check it out.What general percent of cars rattle so its a nuisance? Im just hoping my car isnt going to rattle.
I've seen some people put dynamat on where it is complete flat and sits on the metel like it is suppose to be there minus the shiny silver color and the words dynamat on it. I wish I could get mine like that..
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~The Rookie~
Rookie of the year that is...
Don't let the smoke out of your equiptment..it doesn't go back in.
I bought 36 SQ feet of Extreme today i stripped my doors and cleaned them preping them for the dynamat. I also would like to put it under neath my carpet so I can stop some road noise. As far as the trunk goes, it suprisingly doesnt rattle much at all. The only place that rattles is a area underneath the rear deck. This is only because their is two metal rods their connected to the trunk that easily a disturbed when the bass hits.
You should use two layers in the doors if your mid bass drivers are mounted there. One layer on the outer door skin, the other on the panel...make it heavy and tight. You'll use up a lot of that Dynamat. If the sub is in the trunk the biggest noisemaker is the trunk lid, then the rear between the tail lights. And the rear deck panel where rear speakers are mounted.
Teamrf: McMaster-Carr for what you're looking for at about a dollar twenty per sq ft. Dynamat without the Dynamat logo.
https://www.mcmaster.com/ catalog page 3274 > Adhesive-back damping sheets > polymeric mastic
Some claim that the glue isn't good enough, but I've used it and have seen it last the test of time and the seasons. Doesn't hurt to spray a quick coat of 3M spray glue onto the metal surface first, though.
stevdart wrote:
You should use two layers in the doors if your mid bass drivers are mounted there. One layer on the outer door skin, the other on the panel...make it heavy and tight. You'll use up a lot of that Dynamat. If the sub is in the trunk the biggest noisemaker is the trunk lid, then the rear between the tail lights. And the rear deck panel where rear speakers are mounted.
Teamrf: McMaster-Carr for what you're looking for at about a dollar twenty per sq ft. Dynamat without the Dynamat logo.
https://www.mcmaster.com/ catalog page 3274 > Adhesive-back damping sheets > polymeric mastic
Some claim that the glue isn't good enough, but I've used it and have seen it last the test of time and the seasons. Doesn't hurt to spray a quick coat of 3M spray glue onto the metal surface first, though.
Yea The only thing that Im worried about is the door panel not being able to fit back in after i put two layers on their. I dont know if I should put one and see how it fits or just put two and deal with it and drill some new holes and stuff. The good thing about the doors is that no matter where you drill, its pretty much safe because their is no wiring in the door at all. The trunk I'm not too concerned about because I have my subs facing twards the cabin and with the seat down. Also the box cuts off the cabin from the trunk. Like it ligns up perfectly