ford install accident

Okay... after the fact... I ran into the same problem as this guy on my 94 Explorer Sport right when I thought I did all my research: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=51882&get=last

Apparently, I need the harness for a 94 Ford Explorer sport but with Premium Sound. I have a square plug (speakers) and a rectangular flat plug (power, etc).

But I really messed up on something (I should have disconnected the battery I think).

I turned off my truck and took the keys out. Removed the factory Ford stereo and removed the 2 plugs... trying to figure which of the new harnesses to plug in... I plugged in the flat rectagular (the autozone kit gave me 2 flat rectagulars which is obviously not for my car... I know this now).

With the new harness plugged in damned if some of those new wires didn't touch together right where they are split at the factory. I thought I hear a snap or a pop...  I think I blew something.

I plugged all my orignial equipment back in and now no power to the Ford radio.

I suck.

Anyway I can get out of this? I briefly looked at fuses under the hood of my Explorer but none look blown. If my truck does have a Ford amp perhaps I screwed that up??? I took out the glove comp. to see if the amp was behind it but didn't see anything directly behind it... just anntennae wires.

Also... guess I am kinda confused on the "Amp By Pass" Cable... my Ford Stereo only has 3 plugs going into it... spkr, pwr, and ant..... not sure if I have a amp or not.

I've been looking at this website for help on my situation:
https://carstereohelp.com/stereoremovalMazdaNavajoStr.htm

also this... I have the Ford "Amplified" Radio Wire Harness
https://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Ford-Wiring.pdf

Thanks.

I haven't bought anything else yet... I was looking at the Metra 70-5600 that seems to be made for the Ford Premium Sound System. I think this is an amp integrator harness. I don't know if I should integrate or bypass... installdr says that most people just integrate and be done with it hence no bypass harness.

To amp integrate or to bypass is the question?

I have a Pioneer deh-2300.... specs say min. constant 22w X 4 but also say 50w X4...  that's confusing since that may indicate if I should bypass or not. I don't understand those specs. I figured the radio was just a 50w X 4.

I think I will just use the ford amp since it is simplest and buy the metra 70-5600 and be done with it based on install dr advice. I am using stock speakers anyways and would not want to blow them in case the Pioneer is too much power.
https://www.audiooutfitter.com/store/70-5600.html

I'm just a rookie. Ya'll are da' pros.

Should I just integrate since it is all stock?

Fused is fixed. Old stereo working again.

Thanks geepherder. Intergrating does sound easier and better. Just torn between integrate and bypass thanks to Circuit City. Circuit City people were telling me that integrating will ruin my speakers over time and that bypassing will provide a cleaner sound. That sounds wrong from what I read since the "integrator" system has electronics in it that lower it for the ford amp.

My front passenger speaker is out anyway as it is. Guess it's the speaker... another day... another conversation.

Of course CC wanted me to spend $$ on the harnesses when I can order online for much cheaper. Metra 70-5514. I guess I can expermient with that package since it comes with all cables needed in case bypass is wanted after all.

All I know is that i have to go get a different into car harness no matter what. 

Wish Autozone or Oreilly sold the Metra 70-5514 cable kit so I didn't have to wait on the snail mail!

Your amp is behind the rear wheel well on the pass. side. The Metra harness will allow you to interface the factory amp but is not really necessary if you know the wire colors. The only drawback is it gives a VERY agressive volume control ( you will see Max. volume @ 13 or 14 ). However if you use a PDC-LOC ( I prefer the PAC brand ) it  will match the input levels better and give you smoother volume increases. The input wires are in the square plug with the grey shielding.

 Wire colors are WHITE/ red RF+, brown RF-, violet/white RR+, lt. blue RR-, lt. green LF+, WHITE/ orange LF-, blue/black LR+, yellow LR-

Thanks tcss (I'm reluctant to cut anything at this point) and thanks to all who are helping me with this crazy thing.

Here's the latest.

Finally tracked down a local Metra 70-5514 for a good price (the package has the square spkr harness, flat rectangular power harness, and amp bypass jumper) for my 94 Ford Explorer Sport. I took out the radio and was able to make a fit with the pwr harness (flat rectangular ) to the metra harness but I have ran into a problem with the spkr harness (square)... damn... at least I'm learning though.

The square Ford factory harness fits into the Metra square harness but only half way. The harness fits into the other harness but won't push down into it for a flush fit. I would hate to force it. It's not a clean easy fit like going into the Ford HU.

Also, my Ford harness has a metal piece on the side of the harness but the new Metra harness is all plastic with no metal to connect with the Ford plug harness. Not sure what this will cause in the future.

I really don't want to cut any Ford wires and lose the factory harness... I'm just about to pull my hair out on this thing.

Once I figure this one out... I might try and bypass the amp which would eliminate the volume problem as discussed by tcss... I believe.

I tried the other plug that Metra says will fit a 94 Ford (it is green) but that fit was way off.

My only hope is to force the metal sided Factory spr harness into the all plastic harness???

It's sounds like you have the right harness.  Check the alignment of the pins to make sure they fit the factory harness okay.  You probably have at least one pin that's tweaked a little that is giving you some trouble.  Try to straighten them out, and try it again.

If this doesn't work, swing by the sound shop where you got it- leave your deck out.  Ask if someone can look at it with you- it'll only take a second.  One of the installers in the bay may have an extra harness they'd be willing to let go.

thanks geepherder.

I am going to take a little bit of time and see what I can do myself... better to do it at home instead of the Best Buy parking lot. hehehe.

I will post my results.

ah yeah... waiting for my pickup soccer game to start this morning so I starting fiddlin' with the metra harness while I wa in my truck. Geepherder was right... just slightly tilt the bottom row of pins a hair down and it went right in.

Now I'm matching the wires & connecting... Best Buy gave me a load of free crimp/plastic bell looking connectors... should install later today... installing crimps on wires that I am not using so they won't hit anything else. Will attempt the amp bypass today or tomorrow. That's gonna be interesting.

At least, I have more confidence now... hehehe.

Thanks ya'll. I will post results again. This forum is dope.

Okay... I've got the stereo running w/ integrated amp with music out of appropriate speakers. awesome. That part works great.

Installed the bypass cable but only got music out of right rear speaker. I looked at the Ford wire and there seems to be 2 extra wires that are not continued through the metra bypass harness... ground and power to amp????

Sux because I want to bypass amp so I don't get the big "THUD" when I turn off my stereo.

I've spent a while on the bypass issue and I might try it another day... I did not expect this to happen... but then again it has all been a learning experience. Gotta go put the Ford back together.

I just hope I don't ruin my speakers (factory) with the amp integration system as many people say that I will over time. Trucks got 165,000 on it anyway... I'll be fine.

Oh just thought of something... perhaps I should have not connected the Remote Control wire and the Amp Wire On... since I was trying to bypass... of course I have to have the connection for amp integration.

Damn... didn't think about that one.

Anyone's thoughts?

For the speaker pops, you need to put a 1.5k ohm resistor inline on the turn on lead.  If you're bypassing the amp there's no need.  But you got a bypass harness and only get sound from the right rear?  That's odd.

yep... I even tried rewiring the bypass cable it self... but all the wire are going to the appropriate speaker...

I read on a different forum that some cars have a "common ground" and all the speakers run off a common ground and the only solution is to rewire each speark... hmmmmmm???

oh well... it sounds good though.. better than what I had... definitely.

I will see what i can do on the speaker pop... thanks again.