Audiocontrol 2 channel input?

Ok almost every Audiocontrol product only has 2 channel input as do many x-overs. I got the 24XS which has 2 ch. input but my head unit has front, rear, and sub outputs - like most newer models do. The Pioneer head unit has specific x-over settings for all 3 outputs - not to mention parametric EQ - and I don't want to eliminate those features. Even without that, how would you set this up without losing your balance/fade control from the head unit? What can I add w/out swapping the 24xs?

24XS Manual

The 24XS is a 2-way stereo crossover.  It is most useful for biamping your front main stage or for adding a sub to a system without a dedicated subwoofer output.  Sounds like you don't need it unless you plan to biamp your fronts.

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what about the epicenter? How would you wire that up?..basically the same situation.

I assume what you mean is could you use an Epicenter with your HU?  You could assuming you also have a good crossover, but you don't need it.

The Epicenter requires a full-range input, so you'd need to drive it from either your front or rear output (not your subwoofer output.)  Then you could use the 24XS after it to crossover the signal with low-pass to your sub amp and the high-pass output to drive either your front or rear amp.  In this case you would not use the sub output from your HU.

The only real reason to use an Epicenter is if you are trying to get more out of cheap or undersized subs than they are designed to produce.  The Epicenter is a digital synthesizer that creates bass information not originally recorded on your CD.  If you have a decent sub system, an Epicenter will most likely only cause problems.

Do you own either of these AC units or are you simply thinking about it?  If you're thinking about it, don't.  Spend the money instead on the best speakers and amps you can afford.

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I have the 24xs and was trying to figure out how to use it in this setup. 2 JL 10w3v2d4's on a JL 500/1 and MB Quart PWE-160's in front and rear on a JL 300/4 in a VW Beetle. I really have no room for more amps or even bigger amps for that matter. The head unit has plenty EQ so think I might get a 6 channel 3-way x-over if I have to.

First of all, the MBQ PWE-160 is a 6.5" midbass driver.  What are you trying to accomplish with these?  What are you using for mains?  You do not need a crossover for the sub as you can use the HU built-in LP filter, or the one in the amp. 

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Ok I get used to calling them PWE b/c that's what's on them, but it's the PCE-216 component sets in front and rear. The rear tweeters are mounted as a coax pair. I used brown bread for sound deadening and just need to make it come alive.

Unfortunately, the 24XS has become less popular over time as head units have internal crossovers and multiple RCA outputs with dedicated subwoofer outputs. It does have some good features such a a relatively steep 24db/octave crossover and a subsonic filter. The 6XS would be the better AC crossover for your setup.

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04 MDX - Clarion DRZ9255 / MB Quart QAA4250 / MB Quart QSD216 / Orion Concept 97.2 / JL Audio 10w6v2
91 GMC Syclone - Delco tape deck
90 Syclone powered 2wd S10 (for sale) - Pyle CD / Fosgate 4x6

thats what i figured.

OK, so it's the component set which comes with its own dedicated passive crossover.  Good speakers.  Unless you plan to biamp the components, you should use the supplied crossovers. 

You have a 4-channel amp that should be run from the friont and rear outputs from the HU and a sub amp that should be run from the subwoofer output on your HU.

Why do you think you need to use an extrernal crossover?  I can see NO reason why you need one.

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Depending on the adjustability of the crossover points / slopes in the head unit, an external x-over may provide better flexibility.

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04 MDX - Clarion DRZ9255 / MB Quart QAA4250 / MB Quart QSD216 / Orion Concept 97.2 / JL Audio 10w6v2
91 GMC Syclone - Delco tape deck
90 Syclone powered 2wd S10 (for sale) - Pyle CD / Fosgate 4x6

In the past I've always achieved better sounding results with and external x-over. Flexibility for sure...but I just always end up with better SQ and a decent db boost with a "feeling" of more control. I know the 500/1 is a quality piece but I've always felt the main focus of engineering on a mono or sub amp is performance etc... an external piece designed specificly to do its job always seems to work for me. Pretty soon they'll probably combine everything into a head unit/pre-amp/parametric EQ/24db slope 3-way x-over/1000W mono amp/400W 4 channel amp that you can fit in your pocket.