Breaking 140db?

I know this is a very vague, general question. But I just want some kind of vague idea of what to start looking at.
If I want to be able to break the 140db mark in a '95 standard cab Tacoma, what subs would you guys suggest, or what kind of specs/featurs on subs should I pay close attention to?
Max airspace: ~1.8ft^3 (I might be able to squeeze 2ft^3...maybe)
Max driver depth: 7.4in.

vague answer; high output alternator to begin with.

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Yeah, I'll definitely upgrade the alternator, wiring, and battery.

Mainly, I'm looking for a sub that'll be able to have great output in a maximum of about 1.8-2 ft^3 of airspace, and that's not very deep.
I'm looking at a Shiva, but I've never been able to see/use/hear one first hand.

I doubt you are going to be able to reach those dB levels with that amount of air space. That shiva certainly won't cut it. You need something designed for pure spl i.e. stroker, juggernauts,  but again not with that air space, I don't believe it's possible

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I'm sure it is. I watched a guy with about a 1.75 ft^3 box running a single 12 hit 138.2 tonight.

ok what was he using?

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Last year's Type R at 350watts RMS.

alas my knowledge of spl applications is limited. However I do know that the enclosure plays the majority of the role in spl and how it sounds, was this fellows box ported or sealed?

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Ported.

I thought that might be the case. If I were you I would download Winisd (free!) and play with that. Model up some woofers to your specs. You will need to choose wattage, but since you have neither sub or amp, go based upon the woofer's rms power handling. 

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I've been playing with it. One question I have is on the "Choose Alignment" part just before it goes up on the graph. What are the different alignments about?

uh oh, you got me, you need a winisd veteran for that one, I am sorry I wish I could answer this one, just wait a vet will help you they always like these questions.

what time zone are you in?

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Pacific. It's 11:40pm.

oh, so am I. You may want to bump this in the morning if it gets pushed back. I'd be curious to see the out come.

By the way, why do want such a loud set up?

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Well, I'm only going to have this truck as a daily driver for a couple more months. Then it'll just be a car to mess around with.
And there's so much ignorance and bullsh*tting that goes on at my local car audio shops, I really want to bring something down there and show them that MTX isn't the only brand that makes subs, and a single 12 can infact be damn loud.
The other weekend, I was down at one of them, and the manager brought me out to his car so I could hear his two 12" Type R's. Then I brought him over to my truck and put his subs to shame with my single 12" Type E. It literally left him in awe that the dumb 16 year old kid that he's always trying to sell bullsh*t products to beat him. After that, he got extremely nice [and stopped trying to sell me all kinds of overpriced useless crap], and started offering me deals on just about anything I wanted.

Good for you, boardinbum...and you should also tell him you're a member of the12volt.com.  But the old adage "There's no replacement for displacement" will always hold true when you're pushing for those hard-to-reach decibels.  Your power requirements will be enormous trying to get that much out of a small enclosure, regardless of the sub you use.

The enclosure types shown in WinISD are based on Q.  The program will automatically show the smoothest response when you click through the boxes.  The best thing to do with any woofer is to bring up the project several times, each time choosing a different allignment.  All the responses will be shown on the same graph, so you can look at the frequency response of each one all at once and choose which one you want most.  Input the power applied and look at the SPL graph to find decibels.  Also, and very important, look at the rear port air velocity graph to see how much port noise there will be.  You will need to maximize your space in some way to enable a large port opening and longer port length.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

First off, unless he had some type of crazy ass enclosure I dont see a type R ding a LEGIT 138 off 350 watts rms unless the mic is spiked a little. As for your situation I think that 2^3 feet is enough for a ported enclsure for most subs, but if ou can figure out anyway to get 2.5^3 you are far better off. I am not quite sure what you have agains MTX as I have found they are one of the best SPL subs avalible in their given price range. At least outta whats avalible locally. That includes, but is not limited to, Pheniox Gold, Rockford, Concept, Boston, Eclipse, MB Quart, Alpine, Focal, Kicker, Pioneer, Kenwood, MA audio, JL Audio and Cerwin Vega. But as for other options besides the MTX stuff, Kicker L7's are made to be damn loud and have still been the center piece of some of the louder single sub vehicles I have been in, higher end eclipse stuff is good as well. I wont recomend a JL of any kind for spl use because there are always several alternatives in the same price range that are usually a better option. If you want some honesty now here it comes, be prepared to spend on this. If you wanna achieve a LEGIT 140 not a spiked mic 140 but a legit 140 off a single 12" then its gonna cost you. Your not gonna do it with a 150 dollar woofer in a truck with that kinda airspace. If I had to place money on anything doing it I would probally be putting my money on the MTX 8500, Kicker L7 or Top End Eclipse. Problem is I am not sure on the mounting depth of those 3 woofers and whether or not they will even fit. I tried to help a little but I have to actually doa  little reserch on this. All this was just off the top of my head, but I have been doing the sound off thing for about 5 years now and I very rarley see a vehicle do 140 with a single 12 in a regular truck.

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

Oh, no. I definitely don't have anything against MTX. One of the subs I've been considering is the 7500 (I believe 8500 is too deep). I just meant that in this town, there's two car audio shops. And you'd be hard pressed to find one employee that really knows his stuff. Most of them think the only sub brands even worth a glance are Alpine, MTX, Kicker, and RF (the only brands they cary). None of them have any idea what the hell RE is or Adire.
I mentioned putting a Shiva or two in my next car because it will be more of an SQL setup more on the SQ side, and he had never heard the word "Adire" before. He told me I had better go read some reviews on that company and sub because I would probably just be "throwing my money away".

ive done a 149.5 on the new mic... single 12" 1250 watts.. re se sub  box was 3.5 cubes though..

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dont be a pet monkey ..use your dmm

we have done 141.7 with 2 10 inch eclipse aluminum subs, vented box. tuned to 32 hz,   1.68 cu ft per sub internal. THIS IS IN A TRUNK    200 RMS per sub via a memphis HC-50 running at 1/2 ohm mono.     I will let you guys know next month after we up air space, tune to resonant freq. of the vehicle (98 civic coupe)    and run 720rms per sub.     I am expecting some better #'s

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Hey I know a friend that has 4 Fosgate 8's and a Fosgate 800 watt amp and he was hitting near 150 db's. o yeah.....he drove an s-10

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Dan Tha Man

Once again akansasboy, I am banking on a spiked mic if he was hitting near 150 db's with 4 8's in an s-10. Unless its an extended cab with about the craziest damn t-line box I have ever seen and tuned perfectly to the resonat freq of the truck, that number is just about impossible to hit with 4 fosgate 8's off 800 watts, RMS or max

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

You can try a Resonant Engineering 15" SE in your sealed requirements.

You can put a 12" SE in a 1.8 cu.ft ported enclosure, and the 12" SX in a 1.9 cu.ft ported enclosure.

If you show up to a show in your city with a RE woofer no one will have a clue what you have packing behind your seat.

check out www.realmofexcursion.com/main.html to see the RE subs in action.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Ok, first of all, to the thread creator. Can you hear me? If so, would you like to still be able to hear me in a few years? If so then don't play you r system at the dB levels you're talking about.

Anyway, about these insanely high numbers from the very unlikeyl drivers. It's possible that they capitalized on the driver's resonant frequency and tuned the port to that exact frequency. That'd be good for a 6~15dB in crease right there. So it is possible.

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Yes, I can hear you. No, this won't be an everyday car, and certainly won't be played that loud very often.

However, I talked to the guy, and I kind of doubt he really knew enough to do that. He definitely seemed like more of someone who walked in with $700 cash and said "Get me something really loud."

Wow, $700, that's like twice as much as my normal systems , but of course they arn't bad systems, they'[re just inexpensive.

I suggest a pair of 12in Cerwin Vega HED subs each in a 1ft enclosure with ~300w RMS to each. That will gwr you close to 120+dB which isn't too shabby

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One Eclipse Ti 12, one cube, sealed, DA7232 amp... I don't know HOW loud that'll get, lets just say FREAKIN' LOUD! My analog dB meter "red-lines" at 126dB, and I can BURY that needle!

And, yes, I speak from experience, as that is EXACTLY the setup in my trunk - 01 Civic LX coupe.

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."