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JL Audio Slash or "E" series amps

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=54440
Printed Date: April 26, 2024 at 11:24 PM


Topic: JL Audio Slash or "E" series amps

Posted By: 704acc
Subject: JL Audio Slash or "E" series amps
Date Posted: April 22, 2005 at 6:35 PM

Went to the JL Audio web site and read up on the amps.  It seems like the Slash series amps are better than the "E" series amps.  In the Slash series I did not see any D class amps or any which utilized the plug in Remote Bass Control.

1.  Can anyone give me the scoop or point me to a good tutorial on A, A/B, D or T classifications for amps and which is best for what applications?

2.  Which series of amps is best for me? {E series or Slash}

I have {4} 6.75" speakers to power and a single 10" JL 250 watt sub in a stealth box



-------------
Ray Kane



Replies:

Posted By: racer427
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 1:56 AM

I would stick with the Slash series depending on your budget. The *E* series amps are JL's cheaper line and are only about half as good as the slash series.

Chris



-------------
Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds




Posted By: LTHLQUICKSILVER
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 2:12 AM

Class D is the best class for subwoofers because they are the most efficient of all of the classes.  They can achieve the most output with a given power.  Class D amps also respond well to impedence drops (like when you bridge it for a woofer or you have dual voice coil woofers).

Class AB and A are the best for speaker/midrange amps.  They have the lowest THD (total harmonic distortion) and achieve the cleanest noise.  As you may know, woofers dont need the cleanest power, but speakers do.  The cleaner the better is always the way to go, but with woofers, power efficiency is just more important.  So...

Subwoofers = Class D amps

Speakers / Midrange = Class AB or Class A amps

Hope this helps.





Posted By: 704acc
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 6:01 AM

Thanks to both for your responses.  

I will go with the better series 300/4 amp from the higher end Slash series for my mids/highs

Here is the confusion - unless I missed something there isn't a D class amp in the Slash series only in the E series.  Should I go for the lower quality amp for the sub {single 10" JL 4 ohm sub in a stealth box} to get the D class or go for a quality amp in A A/B class?



-------------
Ray Kane




Posted By: racer427
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:44 AM

Not true. The Slash series amps are *D* Class.

https://www.jlaudio.com/amps/pdfs/500_1_MAN.pdf

Scroll to the bottom and read the specifications.

Chris



-------------
Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds




Posted By: 704acc
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 1:06 PM

Thanks Chris, I wish that 500.1 amp would fit in my truck!  I found the PDF for the 300/4 Slash amp and it is A/B.  The 250.1 Slash amp is made just for subwoofers and is a D.  My decision is made! 

Now if I could figure out a way to incorporate a Remote Bass Control knob into the system.  Any ideas?



-------------
Ray Kane




Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 2:16 PM
The main differance between the Slash and E series is what ohm rating your woofer has. If you are running at 2 ohms the E series would give you the most wattage per dollar. If you are 4 ohms the slash D block would be your best bet. The slash amps use a "sliding power rail" power supply which allows them to produce their rated power anywhere from 1.5 to 4 ohms and anywhere from 10.5 to 14 volts. You will not notice a sound differance between the two differant amps since they both use the same outputs.




Posted By: racer427
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 5:37 PM

The 500.1 is actually does not have that big of a footprint coming in at 13.4"L x 9.25"W x 2.36"H, Plus you can the bass control know with it as with the 250.1 you don't have that option.

Does your head unit have a built in subwoofer control? If not, you might want to look into a unit that has the controls built in like the Aplines Do. I am running an Alpine 9833 and it hase built in crossovers and sub controls and I love it.

Chris



-------------
Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds




Posted By: 704acc
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:16 PM

I mistook the 500.1 for the 500.5, which would have allowed me to run everything off of 1 amp instead of two.

My head unit is an Alpine CDA-9830 with sub outs.  Would it be better to use the Alpine settings rather than the JL audio settings for my system?  Does the Remote Bass Control mak that big of a difference?



-------------
Ray Kane




Posted By: dwarren
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:24 PM

I am pretty sure the knob is just the gain control with a cord (basically)

As far as using the x-overs, you can use either one, deck or amp, it won't matter. Just make sure you use only one, don't double them up.



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Posted By: racer427
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 10:39 PM

I use the the internal crossover in my head unit and I love it. I also use the sub adjustment all the time in the head unit as I listen to a wide variety of music and I love having the sub adjustment at my finger tip.

BTW: the 500.5 will take up roughly the same amount of space that 2 amps will. So, if you are looking at the route, then I would consider it. That is a vary nice amp but, it carries a hefty price tag as well.

Chris



-------------
Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds




Posted By: LTHLQUICKSILVER
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 11:10 PM

Personally, I would go with two separate amps simply in case one of them goes out in the future.  I'm sure you would much rather replace one amp rather than having to get another full system amp.

As for the crossover settings, I always use the one on the amp.  It tends to sound cleaner and have better overall control than the ones in the deck.  When you are dealing with a deck, you need to remember how much stuff they're cramming into a single product.  They need to skimp here and there to make it fit.  I recommend using the one on the amp, you should be much happier.



-------------
Muscle Cars Don't Just Look Good, But They Can Sound Good Too...
1971 Chevelle SS




Posted By: racer427
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 11:17 PM
Well, I would have to disagree with the crossover. The crossover in this Apline is very clear. My local shop also recomended using it as they use the crossovers in the higher end Alpines all the time.

-------------
Alpine CDA-9833 HU
Diamond Audio M661 Components
MTX Thunder T6.6 Components:rear fill:
Cadence Q400 4 Channel Mains + rears
Thunder 801D Subs
MTX 1004 10's
Dual 4g wire to rear
4g grounds




Posted By: customsuburb
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 11:19 PM
I doubt you could really tell the difference in sound between the deck's crossover or the amp's crossover. If you use the deck's crossover you can adjust it up front if you ever need to though.

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Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: April 23, 2005 at 11:23 PM
I'm what you would call a "JL-Fanboy" ... I can assure you, either series of amplifiers is outstanding. For the speakers you're looking at running, go 'slash' all the way.
To be honest, if I had my way, I'd trade those amps u see in my sig for the 300/4 and the 500/1. You needn't that much power for a single 10" tho, grab the 250/1 and the 300/4.

Heads up tho, try to listen to a 'slash' amp before you lay out the $400.. they are so clean they're 'sterile' ... some people don't like 'em.. say they don't sound 'musical' ...

If you can grab the 500/5, that is easily your best choice for the equipment you're running. Be a wee bit cheaper than a 300/4 and a 250/1 at that.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: April 24, 2005 at 1:05 PM
I would use the x-overs on the amps because they are continuously variable. They will give you a bit more ability to fine tune. The JL remote bass control is actually a 60hz boost not a gain control.




Posted By: 704acc
Date Posted: April 24, 2005 at 3:49 PM

Thanks to everyone for the feedback! 

Now for the next two questions:

1.  Is there anything better than the JL Audio line I should consider?

2.  Where can I get the best deal on amps - JL Audio or otherwise?



-------------
Ray Kane





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