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Fusable Link Question

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=55082
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 7:08 PM


Topic: Fusable Link Question

Posted By: forbidden
Subject: Fusable Link Question
Date Posted: May 03, 2005 at 9:40 PM

So, here sits the 2000 Expedition with a nice phat Stinger alternator that we just bolted in + the new plethora of oversize blood vessels we call 0 gauge. So one goes the battery terminals and what is this final wire to be hooked up that is now too short. It is the main power going to the vehicle isolator. It just happens to have a fuseable link in it. We can't extend the wire and the link has now been cut out. I have no books for the vehicle to tell me if this link has a amperage value or not. It is two 12 gauge lines spliced into a 4 gauge line. The link portion is about 3" long. Now I have some new link portion here, compliments of Lordo, however it also happens to be about 12" long. Does the link need to be this long or can I chop this bad baby up and drop it back to 3" and use the same dual runs spliced into the factory 4 gauge line and a new line on the other end (to make it to the battery terminal).

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.



Replies:

Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: May 03, 2005 at 9:44 PM
Does a Ford tech have any idea? Otherwise, couldn't you get a replaecment CABLE from Ford, cut out the chunk you need (of the proper length, obviously), and splice it back into place? Other than that, I got nothin...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: Alpine Guy
Date Posted: May 03, 2005 at 9:56 PM

Trust me, what ever you think will work and be safe will be much better than what was in there from factory since those knucle heads at ford don't have much of a clue what there doing in the first place.

On my old truck i cut out the fuseable links because of the same issue and just ran 4 guage fused to the fuse block where it was originally running.  For 12 guage to melt it would take somewhere between 40-60 amps of current i think? so i just just turned that into a fused value to use as a fuse.  I can't remember what fuse i ended up useing in my old pathfinder, but it was not very high.



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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: May 03, 2005 at 11:10 PM
No doubt, I had already made up my mind on which way to go anyways. A nice 4 gauge line with a nice 70 amp agu fuse should do the trick. It will look nice right beside the wafer fuse holder mounted on aluminum.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: auex
Date Posted: May 03, 2005 at 11:48 PM
I don't know if I would trust a an AGU fuse for this. Best bet would be an ANL or MAXI. I have seen too many AGU fuses melt where the fuse and cap meet causing an intermitten contact.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.





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