Slight Dimming After 0 gauge

Initially i had Power Acoustic 2 Gauge power to the back. I noticed this wire was very cheap...and probably had the same amount of copper as the 4 gauge that i am splitting to each amp. i had severe dimmign at high volumes with this wire.

THe other day i replaced the wire with AUDIO PIPE 0 GAUGE wire from the battery to the distro block. Now and HIGH HIGH volumes 30/35 i have dimming but its slight and id say barely noticeable.

I guess i improved the voltage drops by doing this and theirfore the amps aren't drawing as much current. Also the only things left for the big 3 for me are ALT to battery and Engine block . I redid the bat - to chassis with 0 gauge a while ago.

Now what i want to know is that at my normal listening levels i dont have dimming. But now i want a cap as everyone is telling me it will help my system overall. And since its only slight dimming at the loud volumes it will help that. I will be able to get a 1 farad rock ford cap for 50 bux. Im pusing 700WRMS at most. Amps are PG Tantrum 500.2 and a PG TITANIUZ ZX400ti on the sub and components respectively. And yes the dimming is only at idle and at 30/35.

Overall will the 50 bux spend on a cap help me get better sound or anything liek that? one of the local shops said id notice a differnce after the cap even at my normal listening levels.

I will actually say that this is the proper use for a Cap.   You have very slight dimming and only over running the charging system a little bit.   I would finish the BIG 3 first as this might be a solution for your problem in itself, although if you plan to upgrade and go bigger later, which I expect from your power wire. Thats a little overkill for 700rms, but if you do plan to go bigger, save your money and start looking into a quality high amp alternator.

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Thats exactly what i thouht. But even though my cheap 2 gauge was is the equivalnet of the 4 gauge im using off the distro. WOuldnt 4 gauge be enought for my amp total current draw at 120AMPS but im max prob ever drawing 90AMPS. Or is 4 gauge not enought fot htat. Im gonna finish the big 3 next week but i thought a 50 dollar cap would be a good investment even after the big 3 is done. I might pay a shop to be doign it aswell as getting to the alternator is a bit of a biatch.

we have a 98 civic and I know all about alternators being a pain, frankly I wouldnt suggest even paying a shop to finish off your big 3, but its your money.   You can order connecters for 0 guage and the rest is some small hand tool work. depending on the length your power wire is running 4 guage could or could not be ok.   Check out the wire size chart here
https://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp

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2009 0-1000 Trunk WR 154.0DB 2009 1001+ Trunk WR
2007 USACI World Champion
2007 World Record
2006 USACI Finals 2nd Place

Oh i can do this no problem i even have wire lying around. THe cheap 2 gauge. I have 2 audio pipe battery terminals with 0g 2 8g and 1 4g outs/ins. the alternator to wire battery if done direlt is about max 4-5FT of wire. the problem is me getting my hands at the bolt where the ALT + wire is i need a socket rench with a really long extension. and guess what i have a 99 CIVIC lx 4dr POS same as the 98 ur talkinga about. I think i can get away with using 4 gauge as the upgrade cuz that means the stock + a 4 guage should do it. The shop wants 65 CDN for all 3 comopnents of the big 3. I have done 1 of them already the battery to chassis ground with same 0 gauge.

Looks like your on the right track.  If you tackle the rest of the wires be shure to remove the battery so you don't shock yourself by accidentally hitting the wrench on metal when working at the alternator.

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2003 Chevy Avalanche,Eclipse CD7000,Morel Elate 5,Adire Extremis,Alpine PDX-4.150, 15" TC-3000, 2 Alpine PDX-1.1000, 470Amp HO Alt.

Hum.. Can you elaborate on that. I didnt even know to remove battery. My plan was, if i can get my hands in their. is uncscrew the postive post from alt connect a 4 gauge wire scirew it in then connect it to battery....the only disconnecting i was gonna do was disconnect battery ground thats it......but i called the shop they will do it for 50 bux including the wires. I tried getting at the alt but i just can't ill try once more with someones help but stupid honda is a pain my hands are too big to get in their with a decent sized wrench.

i might not even need a cap after the big 3 is done. But i feel i probably will. If so a cap in this situation is ok to put right ? As said ive noticed huge improvement in dimmign with the audiopipe 0 gauge. And what capacitance should i look at 1 farad or 2 farad or 3 farad?

I feel your pain with the hondas,
I have a 2004 Civic and I found that when I did the big 3 in my car,  I had more room to get to the alternator from below the car, so I bought some car ramps and went under.. now I dont if the earlier honda's had enough room to do this but at least you can check it out and you can always return the ramps for a refund, if you buy from like a Pep Boys or Napa Auto Parts

Just a Thought

--Skold

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2004 Honda Civic Ex 4Dr

Kenwood DDX-7015/W Nav
4 Fosgate T152C
Hifonics Brutus BX1500D
RE XXX 12 in a 4 Cube Snail Shell

Cool thanks I thought about going from under too. But like you i dont have anything fancy. I think ill just give the shop the money to do it. htey said its 65 CDN to do the ENTIRE big 3 with them suppling everything. I have done a 0 gauge battery ground and i have a TONe of my cheap 2 gauge left im sure it is good enough. they told me to bring the car in and they will see how m uch they will charge. They siad it wont be the full 65. I even have 2 audio pipe battery terminals as well. they are 0g +2 8g + a 4g.