one remote turn on, 2 amps?

Hey guys, I'm installing a second amp into my Explorer to power my mains (Alpine MRV-F340), and I just realized that I only have one turn on lead, and that is going to my sub amp. What is the best way for me to get voltage to the second amp? Can I splice the turn on lead wire into two separate leads?

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

Yes

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Yes but after two sources it is advisable to incorporate a fused relay.

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Ok, I have a problem. I'm probably just an idiot, but I am having issues getting my single turn on lead split into two for the two amps. I hooked up my amps this afternoon, and I tried splicing the turn on wire into two, by twisting the wire around the original, and then soddering them together. It looked kind of funky, but it should have been a good connection, or at least I thought. so. I turned the key on, and neither amp came to life. I cut out my splice and butt connected the wire into a single wire again, and connected it to one of the amps. This time, it turned on, so my attempt failed at some point.

What is the proper way to do this?

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

You need to be more detailed. As it is I can't really understand your post.

I cuurently have the remote lead from my deck to the Nak amp, then from there  to the MTX amp. I will be putting in a relay soon.

If you experiencing problems aside from this you may consider a grounding problem. Meter the switch lead at each amp.

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most times i take the end of the remote wire, and another piece of wire (going to the 2nd amp) and twist them together, put them into the remote input on the amp then secure it. Then piggy back the 2nd piece of wire to the 2nd amp. Has worked dozens of time for me.

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2 Memphis 4s

I will clarify:

I had a single amplifier running my sub. I had run a single remote turn on wire from the head unit to the amplifier and all was well. Now, I am installing a second amp. I need to run turn on leads to both amps. Today I took the original turn on lead, and a second wire and attempted to splice them together by wrapping the wires around each other, and then soldered them together. Basically, I ended up with a "T" connection. I ran one end to one amp and the other end to the other amp. Neither amp turned on when power was applied. That's about as clear as I can explain it, hopefully that helps.

To check if the connection was faulty, I basically spliced the  original wire back together again and connected it to one amp and then the amp turned on. So, it was my splicing job that was at fault. I didn't try piggy backing the wire from one amp and then from that amp to the other amp. Do you just connect the wires to the same remote screw on the amp when you do this?

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

switch_hitter wrote:

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most times i take the end of the remote wire, and another piece of wire (going to the 2nd amp) and twist them together, put them into the remote input on the amp then secure it. Then piggy back the 2nd piece of wire to the 2nd amp. Has worked dozens of time for me.

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I think I will try this method, thanks....

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

jdog]S wrote:

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, it was my splicing job that was at fault

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Not necessarily.  Although that could be the problem, you wouldn't know because you didn't test each wire end one at a time to the same amp while the wires were still connected.  Or you didn't check continuity with a meter.  It could be an insufficient power supply instead and so a relay would be needed.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

I didn't think to use the multimeter to test the voltage from each end....I'm still learning the electrical side of this. I am still pretty sure it was the connection, but of course I could be wrong. I will try a new connection tomorrow, and see what happens. I am not sure why the power supply would be insufficient, unless the splicing reduces the voltage that much.

If I need a relay, where would I get one?

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

Try the daisy chain method switch hitter told you about, it's easy and there's no soldering involved.  If you need to put in a relay to provide enough voltage to each amp, you can pick up a SPDT at RadioShack or other places.  Here's how to connect:  https://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#rtol  (...the second amp turn on is the additional device...)

The sum of the fuses you should use will be a small number, as each amp will need just a 1 or 2 amp fuse in the turn-on wire.  The fuse you should put in the 12V constant power lead should be at least equal to those two fuses.  Radio Shack will have the small fuse holders and fuses, too.

You could even use a 1/2 amp fuse on a remote wire.  I used one (this one) on a remote turn on wire that spits to two amps and it's been fine for a year and a half so far.  Here's a fuse holder for that fuse.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

Thanks Stevdart..........I re-spliced the wires today and ran them to the amps and both powered up. I would be that my soldering job left much to be desired, so I used a solderless connection and it seems to be fine. Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

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2004 BMW 325ci.
Alpine CDA-9885
JL 300/4 and 250/1
JL XR 5.25 comps
Infinity Kappa Perfect 12

jdog0411 wrote:

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I didn't think to use the multimeter to test the voltage from each end....I'm still learning the electrical side of this. I am still pretty sure it was the connection, but of course I could be wrong. I will try a new connection tomorrow, and see what happens. I am not sure why the power supply would be insufficient, unless the splicing reduces the voltage that much.

If I need a relay, where would I get one?

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 I have had problems with this in the past also I would try a soundstream power plant u can order one on line or from woodland eletronic the cost is about 100 bucks maybe 120 what that would do for you is give you 4 grounds 4 powers and 4 remotes from 1 lead of each it is also fused in side the unit for the power and has a digital display i put one in a 95 monte carlo along with a long list of soundstream products thay make life easy

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