Wiring Component Speakers

i agree i have installed a few sets of components and  i would advise if you really want to do it your self get some help and you cant wire 3 sets to your head unit if your head unit is a four channel unit as far as the crossover goes if there is a crossovers with the components they need to be wired correctly if you dont understand it get help what area r you in ?

let me kow if you knoe if your not to far buy chance i will help u Adam

OK, first of all what is the gear?  What HU?  What component speakers are you planning to use?  What amp will you use with them?  Can you do fabrication like kick panels aor do you plan to use factory locations?  What vehicle?  Is the electrical system stock or upgraded?  Is there a sub in the vehicle?

The HU is a panasonic 200 watts and the components are blaupunkt Vc540 at 100 watts im not sure on the amp yet what do you recommend. As far as the fabrication goes the they are fabricated in the door panels two in the front door and one in the back door. Honda Civic 4dr and i do plan on upgrading the electrical system. and no sub yet but there are plans for a sub.

Don't worry about the power ratings you have listed, they mean nothing in this case.  If it was me I'd put one set of those Blau's in the front doors and one set in the back doors connected as a standard 4-speaker setup.  If you are saying you have already created custom door panels for the fronts, each designed to carry TWO sets of 5.25" components, I'd suggest you then have the skills to re-make or modify them and change one of the 5.25" opening to a 7" or 8" opening and add a set of dedicated woofers for mid-bass.  Use only one tweeter per door.  I would use the Panasonic head amplifier to drive the comps only as long as I absolutely had to, and would buy a good quality four channel amp for the main sets as soon as I could afford it.  Concerning the crossovers, ALWAYS use the passive crossovers that come with a component set unless you plan to bi-amp and know how to do that.  You cannot connect more than one speaker to each output on a passive crossover.  You should not need to upgrade the electrical system until you begin adding subwoofer and mains amps, and then the current requirements of those amps will determine how large an alternator you will need.  Don't waste your money on caps.

Cheers.

would 6.5" woofer be ok for the second door speaker?

You still would be defeating the purpose of a three way system with a 6.5"

A decent 6.5" mid-bass  generally can be played down to about 80 hz with some sucess, but ideally an 8" woofer is the best way to go. You will be able to fill the gap between your sub woofers and midbass that can occur.

I am sure DYohn will give you a further explanation here.

I agree.  Most standard 6.5" car audio speakers will not gain you enough over your 5.25" to be worth it, although there is one 6.5" that I know about that plays with authority as low as most 10's, and that's Adire's Extremis 6.8.  Right now it is only available as an 8-ohm version (which is fine for car audio as long as you give it an amp that will deliver 100 watts into 8-ohms) but rumor has it there will be a 4-ohm car audio version avaiable soon.  There are other killer mid-woofers available from companies like Dynaudio, Focal, ScanSpeak, Morel, Seas, and others in the 7" to 8" range.

As dwarren suggested, I am steering you away from using multiple speakers playing the same frequencies and towards converting your 2-way components into 3-way components.  What you want to end up with is something like a subwoofer crossed over to play below 80Hz, a mid-woofer crossed between 80Hz and about 200Hz, and then your 2-way comps playing everything above 200Hz.  This will probably require an electronic crossover, or a second passive crossover for the mid-woofers, and more amps than I believe you currently have in mind.

Let us know how you decide to proceed and we can help you set it up.

Now do you see why I at first suggested you may want to go find a pro in your area to help you?