Do a continuity test on the two endpoints of the fuse. There is usually a resistance setting with a bell or loudspeaker symbol on the DMM. If there is no continuity, your fuse is blown.
vseth] wrote:
Do a continuity test on the two endpoints of the fuse. There is usually a resistance setting with a bell or loudspeaker symbol on the DMM. If there is no continuity, your fuse is blown.
That's correct. Did you mean an arrow symbol instead?
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Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.

Also which slots should I have the wires in when Im doing this
Which slots? What do you mean?
Only read continuity through a fuse after it has been pulled from the system. If it's still installed, test it by reading the voltage drop across it. A good fuse will have less than 0.1 volt across it, a bad one will have 12V.
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actually i would just meter voltage on both sides of the fuse in circuit... (this is the same as metering the voltage drop only not as confusing for beginners)....if it's good you'll have 12 v on the fused and the unfused sides, if it's bad you'll only have voltage on the feed side and nothing on the other..... this is way faster than pulling the fuse and metering it for continuity....
BTW, the "arrow" is a diode test setting... use the resistance scale on a x1 setting to meter the fuse for continuity out of circuit....
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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
I think he's asking whick holes on the DMM. He dosen't know how to use a DMM.
Put the red wire in the red hole and the black wire in the black hole labeled COMM not 10A
Paul
oh i already figured it out but thanks man