which binding post terminals for sub box?

I'm having a custom built sealed box for my 12" H2.2 Orion and it'll be my first sub/box and am curious, what binding post terminal I need? What features or specs? The sub has dual voice coils so I was wondering if I need a specific binding post terminal to put into the back of my box to connect my 4 AWG amp kit wires to the sub.

I dunno what to look for when purchasing the terminal and if I need more wires to connect the sub to the terminal inside the box

the terminals really dont matter i would get the sping loaded style  and for the wires for the the subs you may need more speaker wire if the amp kit didnt come with enough to get it done  are those subs DVC's and what ohm are they and what ohm load can your amp handle ????

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

well you wont be running 4 ga. wire to a sub box....not for a speaker connection.....your speaker wiring will likely be 12-16 ga.... depending on how you are configuring this driver you will need either one or two terminal connectors (most likely only one)... they can be purchased through most audio accessories companies ( i think i buy ours thru Lightning Audio)   try to avoid the spring loaded terminal connectors and go with a good quality binding post style....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

The sub is rated at 2000 RMS and I'm going to run it off a mono Orion 1200D amp @ 1 OHM - 1200 watts. It says its stable, but we'll see. If not, I'll go to 2 OHMs @ 750 watts.

Here is the amp kit I purchased:

https://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=eKo-K4

The speaker wire is 16 AWG.

OK, cool, I'll head up to a store later today and see if I can't find a binding post terminal. I want a quality one and that sounds sturdy to me heh. I dont know anything though so it's time to learn

You don't have to use any at all. Most people don't. You can just drill a hole, run the wire, and seal it up. If you just want to use 'em, they all work pretty much the same.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.

i wasnt talking about the cheep spring loaded style terminals i was talking about the style like the ones on the JL subs and if you want to you can just run the wire and seal the hole that works well also

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700

i just picked up a "speaker terminal plate" from radio shack for $4.99. Hopefully it's what/all I'll need.

I am wiring the sub @ 1 OHM ++ and -- so do I need 2 of these? I took pics:





??

No, you need only one cup.  Solder each coil terminal to the terminal cup, so two positives will go to the pos on the cup, etc.  You'll need to run only one set of wires from the cup to the amp.  Once you have the connections made, test all your wiring for continuity with a meter.  Then fill the backside of the terminal cup with regular everyday door and window caulk.  That will maintain a thicker skin at this weak point.

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Build the box so that it performs well in the worst case scenario and, in return, it will reward you at all times.

stillfading wrote:

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I am wiring the sub @ 1 OHM ++ and -- so do I need 2 of these? I took pics:





??

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Just jumper the + and - from one voicecoil to the + - terminals on the sub. Then run one the + and - from one of the voicecoils to the terminals on the box. Or you could just wire the + from each voicecoil to the + on the box terminal cup and the - from each voicecoil to the - on the terminal cup

^^ i'll probably do the second, thanks man