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Which Amp?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=59043
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 2:03 PM


Topic: Which Amp?

Posted By: eklipz17
Subject: Which Amp?
Date Posted: July 08, 2005 at 12:37 AM

Currently I got a set of Kicker CVR 12's, dvc. They're running on a Jensen LXA300 amp. Pretty old and crappy, so it's time for an upgrade (after using the amp for a few years lol) They're also in a sealed box.

I did some research recently and I'm gonna go with a JBL GTO1201.1 amp. 787watts x1 @ 4ohms. The subs are rated 800watts RMS total. So I'm thinking since it's for daily driving, that'll be plenty. The amp will be around $300 including s&h on ebay. Would anyone recomend this amp, or know a better/cheaper one?

While I'm asking for advice,  I'm gonna upgrade the door speakers. I found some CDT EF-61. Would anyone recomend CDT's or something better/cheaper? I just need some extra opinions before I go making final decisions. Of course i'll be adding a 2nd amp for these. I'll probably go with an Alpine, Kicker, Fosgate, etc. amp. One of the good brands since it doesnt have to be all that great for the components. (Unless anyone has other advice please let me know)

I'm sure if the amp upgrade, I'll be needing a few layers of deadening since the amp I got now does alot of rattling. Can anyone point me to a site that sells some cheap but good deadening? The only thing I've found is B-Quiet.

I'll be getting a 4gawg wire/amp kit, but what I need to know is, whats a good size speaker wire to use? For the subs and components?

So all in all, do you think I'm going in the right path for a good sounding system for daily driving? Money isn't an issue but I dont want to spend a fortune. If anyone else needs any other info, let me know.

Thanks.




Replies:

Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: July 08, 2005 at 1:44 AM

thezeb.com's special on EF-series componets is probably one of the best deals around, 'specially for $200.  CDT stuff is absolutely awesome.  

Speaking of thezeb.com.... this little amp has been real popular lately..

https://www.thezeb.com/p-USacoustics-USX-2050-2-Channel-Amplifier-105480.htm

You couldn't do worse for twice the money.  I just bought one.

As far as a JBL amp?  I'd get behind the amp but not the source.  For my cash, I'd drop a little more and remove that old adage.. eh.. "caveat emptor" ..... on the other hand if you don't know what that means you prolly won't care anyway eh?!

https://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO12011II

Nice amp.  I've always liked JBL stuff.

Speaker wire size doesn't matter at all.  I'd link to calculator but I'm getting tired.  Trust me.

4-gauge wire sounds like it'd run those two amps lickety-split eh?

Yea man that system will sound great.  Like Tony the Tiger on Nickelodeon.  That good eh?  As good as Frosted Flakes. 

*Great*



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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: haemphyst
Date Posted: July 08, 2005 at 8:47 AM
Got to sleep, sedate... I got this one LOL

Here is a link to what sedate was referring to... This is a handy link for other calculators also.

BQuiet is good stuff, and cheaper than Dynamat, from what I hear. Those are the two brands I would recommend...

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It all reminds me of something that Molière once said to Guy de Maupassant at a café in Vienna: "That's nice. You should write it down."




Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: July 08, 2005 at 10:42 AM
check out www.ikesound.com they have some good stuff and some crap you can get alpine and kicker stuff cheep

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 3:26 PM

Ok, here's some more questions I'm concerned about.

If I get that USacoustics amp for the components, should I get another amp kit for it, or how would that work? (I've never hooked up 2 amps before other than seeing people run 2 different kits to the battery). I plan on putting the 2nd amp beside the 1st amp in the trunk. So running speaker wire to the amp in the trunk sounds like a pain in the @$$.

If I had two amps, do you think a batter/alt upgrade would be needed?

IMO I like having sound coming from the rear, so I gotta have speakers in the rear. I could remove the 6.5 speakers in the rear and just use the holes for bass to travel through. But if I left my pioneer speakers in the rear and just keep them ran to the deck, would that be ok or would it ruin the sound? (Which I rather do) or should I get some better/cheaper speakers and just run them to the deck?

I think that's all the questions I have.

Thanks again.





Posted By: Blowntweeters
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 3:41 PM
get a 4 channel amp and run all your mains off that and as far as the 2 amps use a larger power and ground setup and use a powerplant or fused power blocks and that will give you the ablity top hook up every thing and have the correct size wire running and be sure to wire your voice coils to a total of 4 ohms

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1974 ford pinto 4 15" punch Z power punch bd 1001 pioneer DEH-6700




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 3:56 PM

Do you have a link to where it shows me how to took up 2 amps, and add a distro. block?

and i dont think theres a point in running my rear speakers off an amp. so that 2channel us acoustics amp is perfect for those cdts. when i get it all installed and i dont see a point or hear the rears, i'll just unhook them.





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 4:01 PM

Here's what I got down so far that I'm getting.

JBL GTO amp (for subs)
4gawg wire kit for JBL amp
12ga/16ga speaker wire for subs & cdt components
USacoustics amp for cdt components
B-Quiet deadening (enough for doors, trunk, and trunk lid)
CDT EF-61 components

and right now I have an Alpine CDE-9845 headunit. I "think" it's one of the low end decks. I was looking at a CDA-9830. CDA-9847. CDA-9851.

Is the one I got now good enough, or should I get a better one. I already have a friend who wants to buy the one I have now off me, so getting a new/better one wouldn't be a problem. I'm just curious.

So am I missing anything?

Thanks again.





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 5:08 PM

Another thing I'm confused about, is the wiring option for a 4ohm load.

https://www.lightningaudio.com/latech/wiringwizard/2_4ohmDVC_4ohm.gif

For the single wire ran to the neg. to pos. is it "dot to no dot" or "dot to dot" ?

I thought it was "dot to not dot" but I've heard both now.





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 8:39 PM
anyone?




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 8:43 PM

Another question for the wiring.....where the wire splits to connect to both negatives & positives.

2 wires will actually be going into 1 neg. and post. on the amp? And where would the connectors on the box come to place? If not, could someone explain to me cause I'm a newbie at this, but trying to learn.

Just to make sure I got this correct.

Thanks again.





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 10, 2005 at 10:47 PM
can anyone help?




Posted By: geepherder
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 7:46 AM
I'm not in here as often as I used to be since I stay pretty busy, so you'll have to forgive me for not reading the thread in it's entirety.  Let me see if I can help.  Is the Lightning Audio link to wiring consistent with your setup?  You have two (4 ohm) DVC subs?  If so, that is the correct wiring.  Yes, on the individual woofers it's dot to no dot.  Let us know if you have more questions.

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My ex once told me I have a perfect face for radio.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 12:16 PM
definitely do to no dot.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 1:35 PM
I'm sorry.. what dots are ya'll talking about?

ecklipz:

Okay. Not really. Running your rear speakers off of your deck is a kinda haphazard way to do things. The problem you run into isn't so much the power coming off of the deck as where along the volume knob it being delivered in relation to volume increase off of your RCA's.
Sometimes it works out real well... sometimes not so much. I always advise against it.

With judicious use of your fader and careful gain setting, you should be able to get that to work... but to get your front speakers to be playing most of the music and keep imaging and what-not up front, frequently over-gaining the front speakers is required, which produces, amoung other underdiserables, alternator whine and such.

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 2:21 PM

thanks for the feedback. does anyone know a link to where it shows me how to hook up 2 amps?
And what kind of cable size to use for the little amp, etc.

And about the alpine decks, which would be my best bet to go with? The money isn't an issue, I just want the best for better sound (if any of those models matter) and i want to stick with alpine cause i love the alpine decks from what i've used and seen.

And another question about the wiring setup picture, (my first time wiring 4ohm subs to a mono amp. The amp I got now a friend did). For example, would I be the taking the one wire (split it at the end to connect both negatives coils on the subs) and run the wire still connected together at the other end on the amp negative place? So there'll be 2 wires going into the same negative clamp on the amp? And same for the positive.....Or am I way off?

Thanks again





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 6:17 PM
bump




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 10:02 PM
anyone?




Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 10:16 PM
About the Alpine decks:

They suck.
They are the most unintuitively designed HU's I've ever used. I spent $350 for my deck (AlpineCDA9833) a year ago and the thing is so packed full of useless features that are impossible to access it is disgusting.

Lemmie give you an example. Lets say you want to adjust the treble up or down a notch. For whatever reason. Not on this stupid thing. You have to OPEN A NEW EQ FILE, CREATE THE EQ CURVE YOU WANT, SAVE THE NEW EQ CURVE, SELECT THE EQ CURVE, AND THEN LOAD IT INTO MEMORY. Instead of say... tapping the rotary knob, until "treble" comes up and then a quick notch up or down.

It is so retarded. I mean, I've had the thing for a year and I can't change the treble setting in the time it takes to sit through a 4-way stoplight during rush hour.    You can change gains and xovers on my amps that ARE IN MY TRUNK faster.

The list goes on and on and on. You can change the subwoofer volume from the rotary knob menus, but you can't turn it off. That function is BURIED in menus even harder to access than the EQ. EVERY function requires you to HOLD some button for 5 seconds, then double tap to verify..   ARGG.

Seriously, if you think you want to be stuck with one of those pieces of crap, please, please at least stop by a shop somewhere and see about changing the treble. See if the sales guy can do it in the time it takes an installer to do an alarm eh?

The cheapo "///Alpine" sticker in the upper right hand corner is even peeling off!

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 10:36 PM

Hm, I've never seen anyone ever hate the Alpine decks. lol. But they are confusing but I've never had a problem with mine.

Do you have any advice for my other 2 questions?

thanks.





Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: July 11, 2005 at 11:17 PM
Hmm. It doesn't really matter how your physical wire is wired in terms of where it is spliced and what-not. The entire length of the wire looks like the same "point" to the electrical circuit.

It sounds like you need Electricity101... I'm actually not sure where to point you.

Maybe a more senior member could jump in with a link to a good electrical primer?

To hook up your amps w/o a amp kit:

15' of power wire

A fuse holder 18" w/in your battery.

A fuse

Distribution block

Then from that I'd prolly run 8 gauge to your amps.

You can ground it with 8 gauge as well.

Get it?

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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview




Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 6:11 PM

Yeah I get it now, thanks.

As for the "how to wire the subs"..I'll figure it out. The only thing that confuses me is where the box connectors comes to picture. I might not even use the connectors and just drill a hole on the sides to run the wires through and just patch it when I'm done.

and for the deck, I went with the CDA-9851 instead of the 9833. I figured I didn't need the extra power the 9833 gives, and I liked the style of the 9851 better.

Thanks everyone for helping. I appreciate it.





Posted By: eklipz17
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 6:13 PM

*9830 not 9833.

my bad.





Posted By: sedate
Date Posted: July 13, 2005 at 8:48 PM
I never use box connectors.. I just drill two holes in my box, pull the each wire through real tight like.. then apply gap sealer or liquid nail or super glue or locktite or something around the wire to seal it proper.


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"I'm finished!" - Daniel Plainview





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