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12 volts not doing the trick?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Audio
Forum Discription: Car Stereos, Amplifiers, Crossovers, Processors, Speakers, Subwoofers, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=59281
Printed Date: April 28, 2024 at 1:35 PM


Topic: 12 volts not doing the trick?

Posted By: Tegpilot
Subject: 12 volts not doing the trick?
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 10:52 AM

Ok, so I have an MRV-F357 that uses Alpine's V12 power feature meaning i get about double power with 14.4 volts than at 12.  My 99 Integra has a battery about the size of one you might find on a good cordless drill.  haha.  Ok. I am only getting at least 12 volts at the +12 lead on my amp according to my meter.  Will a capacitor help in this situation.  I hate not being able to use what the amp is made for!  Thanks for you help



Replies:

Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 11:57 AM
Almost all cars with properly running alternators and voltage regulators should be reading between 13.5 to 14.4 volts when running. I would look there first.




Posted By: Drewt
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:13 PM
a cap will NOT give you any more voltage or total power (it may actually give you a little less, although not likley with voltage).

You need to run it with your car running, since the alternator will make btwn. 13.5 and 14.4 volts like tcss said. Now, if your alternator can make enough power for your amp, but you are still undervolting a little below your normal (but above 12v), then a cap will help. If you are undervolting below 12v with the car running, then you need a better/nother battery (and probally a bigger alternator)

Short answer: no

-Drew




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:21 PM

And Alpine amps do not have a magic circuit that makes double the power at 14.4 volts as compared to 12 volts. It is called a unregulated power supply that most (not all) manufacturers use......to me your opening statement sounds like a salespersons lie. No offence intended either, just want you to know the truth.

The reason for the no answer from the guys above is that although it theory it will work and drop the resistance down to 2 ohms, increasing the power output, this output will now be split evenly between the speakers and the resistor (if one can be found that can get rid of that much heat on a consistent basis). So yes it would work but you would have no more output than what you have now.

To get louder, you need to double things. So if you do not have an amp on these speakers, add a 50 w rms x 2 amp to them. If you have a 50w rms x 2 amp, then you need a 100w rms x 2 amp to make a difference that you can hear with your ears. Have 100w rms x 2, then you need a 200w rms x 2, next would be a 400w rms x 2......



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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:28 PM
forbidden wrote:


The reason for the no answer from the guys above is that although it theory it will work and drop the resistance down to 2 ohms, increasing the power output, this output will now be split evenly between the speakers and the resistor (if one can be found that can get rid of that much heat on a consistent basis). So yes it would work but you would have no more output than what you have now.

To get louder, you need to double things. So if you do not have an amp on these speakers, add a 50 w rms x 2 amp to them. If you have a 50w rms x 2 amp, then you need a 100w rms x 2 amp to make a difference that you can hear with your ears. Have 100w rms x 2, then you need a 200w rms x 2, next would be a 400w rms x 2......



Umm..did I miss something?

::EDIT:: Ok, I think I understand. Did you mean that second part for this thread?

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
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Check it out.




Posted By: Drewt
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:33 PM
yeah....what's the talk of resistors....




Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:34 PM
With much respect to Rob as a platnum member I have to disagree. Alpine amps as with almost all others do put out more power @ 14.4 volts then @ 12 volts. Although it is not double it is meaningful.For instance the the MRD-M605 puts out 600 RMS @ 14.4 volts @ 2 ohms whlie @ the same ohm rating it puts out 400 RMS @ 12 volts. Your needing to double the power to hear any audible volume ( 1db ) statement is incorrect. Doubling of power produces a 3db volume increase so increasing power by 50% ( 400 to 600 RMS)will produce a 1.5db increase. Small but definately audible.The only amps I know of that do not reduce power at lower voltage levels are the JL slash series and I believe that power supply is patented.




Posted By: modena0
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:44 PM

if i am not mistaken the Slash series PS is regulated, hence the lack of output power change.





Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 1:47 PM

I mixed threads...darn. but it might serve a purpose here anyways.

tcss, I think you misread my statement or perhaps I did not make it clear enough. Here it is again.

"And Alpine amps do not have a magic circuit that makes double the power at 14.4 volts as compared to 12 volts. It is called a unregulated power supply that most (not all) manufacturers use......to me your opening statement sounds like a salespersons lie. No offence intended either, just want you to know the truth. "

In my quote there you will notice the statement unregulated power supply, this like most all amplifiers (some notable exceptions though), is why and amplifier makes more power at 14.4 volts as compared to 12 volts. It is not a proprietary circuit found only in Alpine V12 amplifiers, which to me is how I read the original post. I know that you are well aware of this and this is why I think you misread my post, no harm done.

To me, and any post I have made reference to for years and years on many differing forums, a noticeable difference that one can hear is 3db, not 1 db. I assumed that all who would read this would also assume this as well. To me is seems that you assumed it was 1 db when you knew it should be 3db. So again perhaps I should have included this in the explanation. Here is the second part of my quote which supports my statement.

"To get louder, you need to double things. So if you do not have an amp on these speakers, add a 50 w rms x 2 amp to them. If you have a 50w rms x 2 amp, then you need a 100w rms x 2 amp to make a difference that you can hear with your ears. Have 100w rms x 2, then you need a 200w rms x 2, next would be a 400w rms x 2...... "

This statement does indeed show a doubling of something to have the noticeable diffenence in output levels that we can hear easily, it is also the exact basic formula for one to gain 3db and not 1db.

So, looks like I should have made my post a little cleaner or perhaps your contacts were a little blury. No harm done. Hope you agree with my post this time dude.



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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: Tegpilot
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:00 PM

Ok here is the Spec Sheet.  Not double,  *my apologizes* didn't think you guys paid that much attention.  umm here you go.  I would say that at RMS 30w/chan apposed to 50w/chan is noticeable, whether 1db or not 3db.  My intention in the question was the same as "why buy monster when you can go to wall-mart for you cables"  I just want to get what my amp will produce.  By the way, I'm running kappa 6-1/2 components all the way around. 

Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 12.0V, 20 Hz to 20
kHz)
MRV-F357
Per channel into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ..... 30W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ...... 40W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ............ 80W, 0.3% THD
4 ohms (CH-5) ......................................... 100W, 0.3% THD

Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 14.4V, 20 Hz to 20
kHz)
MRV-F357
Per channel into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ..... 50W, 0.08% THD
Per channel into 2 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ...... 60W, 0.3% THD
Bridged into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) .......... 120W, 0.3% THD
4 ohms (CH-5) ......................................... 150W, 0.3% THD

Max. Power (at 14.4V)
MRV-F357
Per channel into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ........................ 90W
Bridged into 4 ohms (CH-1 – CH-4) ............................ 240W
4 ohms (CH-5) ........................................................... 300W





Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:03 PM
No worries Rob, but part of your statement is just plain wrong. The definition of 1 db is the "smallest amount of volume gain that the human ear can detect". I know it's a small detail but thought the record should be set straight.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:08 PM

Always assume that you will have a 12 volt supply. This is due to the demands that the vehicle places on the electrical system when it is in use.... a rainy night in the summer means, headlights, ac, wipers, parklights.... and your stereo. You will always get the bare minimums that these amps claim and even more as they do not just magically stop making power at 12 volts, upon testing, most amps exceed their 12 volt rating by a good amount (for a reliable amp like an Alpine). If your vehicle is delivering more voltage than 12 volts, that is great, you will gain even more power. In this case it is not about the amplifier, it is about the charging system and the demand it is placed on it that will determine the real output of your amplifer. Make sure that you have a good ground, read my grounding sticky as this will aid the situation and help you get the most you can from your investment.



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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:15 PM

Most people are pressed very very hard (especially males and the older we get as well) to hear a difference of 1 db. In a controlled environment like a hearing test, sure I will agree, but in a vehicle with background noise and non-linear output levels, 1 db for most people is not noticeable. For those with bionic hearing (definitely not me), I concede that there are those people that can hear this difference. So I guess we are both right.

FYI, I just had my hearing tested and it shows a 18db loss in my right ear and 19db in my left ear. Not from car audio either but from ear infections when I was young. I still suffer ear infections to this day...sometimes it's worth it thoug...I can't hear the other half bitchin' me out for some crises she is having. posted_image



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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:32 PM
LOL Rob, I just moved the girlfriend in. I'll think I'll go listen to some REALLY loud music! Most respect for your opinions on this sight.




Posted By: forbidden
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:35 PM
Just don't let her move the kitchen table in....that is the day that is the end of life as you know it.

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Top Secret, I can tell you but then my wife will kill me.




Posted By: tcss
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 2:38 PM
On the bright side I would make a lot more money because I would be spending SOOO much more time at the shop.




Posted By: nowlater123
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 7:27 PM
BTW, how would you get 14.4 volts to your amp? By attaching the power wire to the alternator power wire? Or would this be too hazardous to your car's electrical system?

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Kenwood all the Way!




Posted By: oonikfraleyoo
Date Posted: July 12, 2005 at 7:35 PM
I wouldn't hook an amp directly to the alt. That power is too "dirty". It needs to be filtered somehow (battery). If your engine is running and your amp is wired to the battery, you should be getting b/t 13 & 14.4 volts. If not you may want to have your alt. and/or battery checked out.

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Nik
Jeeputer Progress
[|||||||||||-] 90%
Check it out.





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